• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Kreem tank cleaner/liner

  • Thread starter Thread starter randyshipp
  • Start date Start date
R

randyshipp

Guest
Does anyone have any experience with this product: http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=435

My 1982 GS850GL sat for a long time, and I'm about to put freshly dipped and rebuilt carbs back on the bike. Is this product (at $25), a reasonable precaution to take against mucking up shiny carbs with rusty gas? Thanks in advance.

Randy...
 
I just did a tank with Kreme and I'm not impressed. I spent an entire day turning the tank over and over and it did not seal two pin holes, I had to epoxy the tank on the outside and repaint.

I would look into the por-15 product. The standard Kreme kit is only enough for a 2.5 gallon tank (according to the instructions) so you need to buy two. That is 60 bucks around here.

I'm sure there are others that are satisfied with it, I just happen to one that isn't.
 
I used it for rust issues, and it worked great. I didn't have any holes I was trying to seal, so I can't speak for that.

Also, the kreme kit I bought (also the small one for bikes) said it would treat up to a 5 gallon tank. $25 bucks from Z1.
 
I just did this to my bike a couple of weeks ago, it worked really good, preparation is the key, before using the Kreeme make sure that you get as much of the big rust out as possible. I used a couple of small pieces of chain to rattle around in the tank before I used the tank prep ( let that sit in there for a whole day) then after i did what the directions said for the acutal kreem liner, i let it dry over night and then treated it again, that second time things sealed up really good and the liner is 3-4 times thicker than it was after the first go round. i have been very please with the results, but preparation is the key. good luck
 
nichols750 said:
I just did this to my bike a couple of weeks ago, it worked really good, preparation is the key, before using the Kreeme make sure that you get as much of the big rust out as possible. I used a couple of small pieces of chain to rattle around in the tank before I used the tank prep ( let that sit in there for a whole day) then after i did what the directions said for the acutal kreem liner, i let it dry over night and then treated it again, that second time things sealed up really good and the liner is 3-4 times thicker than it was after the first go round. i have been very please with the results, but preparation is the key. good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips! I'll have a look at the inside of the tank once it's off. If it ends up needing this treatment, I'll certainly be careful with the prep part.

Randy...
 
Not for me...

Not for me...

I wouldn't use any of that stuff... it may work well, and I certainly hope it does. I paid a shop to line my tank and it worked so well that I would never consider doing it any other way. It cost $80 and, to this day, it's like a new, slick finish within my tank...that was 4 1/2 years ago.

Maybe that stuff works good but, Geeeez, I think for 80 bucks, I saved myself a whole lot of potential grief.:?
 
I've used Kreem, and that junk pretty much ruined a good tank. Complete worthless garbage, IMHO. Many here have also had problems with Kreem. I don't know why it is so much easier to find, but it sure as heck doesn't work much of the time.

Por15 is much better stuff -- there are a lot of satisfied users, and the coating actually works as advertised. Por15 also sells a stripper to remove the remnants of a krappy kreem coating.
 
I've used Kreem on two different occasions: a GPz900 tank, and the tank on my Kat1100 (current bike). Each time it's worked well for me, but I first had to block any pin holes with epoxy putty from the outside. I was also very thorough with the tank prep., but it sounds to me that other folks have likewise been thorough, but still had a bad experience.

I have since *heard* that Kreem can't really handle alcohol added in the fuel, either in fuel additives or in the fuel itself (ie. added by the fuel manufacturer/ distributor).

Unlike Kreem, I've heard only good reports from people who have used POR15... so I'll be trying that next time I need a tank liner, I think.
 
after trying RUSTOL as an easy, yet expensive ($50.00 for one liter and distributed exclusively through Sudco)) with ultimately dismal results i had my tank treated with POR15. worked great, tank looks 100% new inside. it gets my vote.
 
If I'm gonna have trouble with the kreeme, would it have shown up right away? Some family friends have used the stuff and swear by it, I hope I didn't shoot myself in the foot by using it.
 
chuckycheese said:
I wouldn't use any of that stuff... it may work well, and I certainly hope it does. I paid a shop to line my tank and it worked so well that I would never consider doing it any other way. It cost $80 and, to this day, it's like a new, slick finish within my tank...that was 4 1/2 years ago.

Maybe that stuff works good but, Geeeez, I think for 80 bucks, I saved myself a whole lot of potential grief.:?
Click to expand...

Gotta say I would have gone that way too . I did the por-15 it took two treatments to get things sealed up and I followed the steps to the best of my ability. It did the job though with a fair amount of work involved.
 
I think that part of the problem with using any tank-lining product -- be it Kreem or POR-15 or whatever -- it's a potentially messy job where if you get one step in the process not quite right, then the whole job is sunk.

Besides, there's something unnatural about coating a surface you never get to physically touch, I reckon. :-k
 
quiktrp said:
If I'm gonna have trouble with the kreeme, would it have shown up right away? Some family friends have used the stuff and swear by it, I hope I didn't shoot myself in the foot by using it.
Click to expand...

Actually the problem appears down the road when the stuff gets brittle and starts cracking and coming off in sheets. Then your tank rusts again and you need to find another solution. Fortunately it is easily removed by a radiator shop or with the solution that came with the Kreeme kit. This happened on my 81 1100 tank about 4 years after doing the kreeme kit.

If it's just surface rust in the tank, I recently used phosphric acid to neutalize it in my tank by the advice of a few others on the forum. Worked awesome. Get BHER Concrete Etcher at Home Depot for $24 a gallon. a 50/50 mix with water, slosh it around for a few hours and drain.

If you have pinholes to deal with, have a radiator shop line the inside of the tank, or ask Argonsagas about the place in Canada that does a total tank restoration.
 
bwringer said:
I've used Kreem, and that junk pretty much ruined a good tank. Complete worthless garbage, IMHO. Many here have also had problems with Kreem. I don't know why it is so much easier to find, but it sure as heck doesn't work much of the time.

Por15 is much better stuff -- there are a lot of satisfied users, and the coating actually works as advertised. Por15 also sells a stripper to remove the remnants of a krappy kreem coating.
Click to expand...

Iv'e Kreemed 3 different tanks with ZERO issues. The #1 issue with poor results is RUSHING the job (I am NOT insinuating the you did either). Kreem will NOT fill some pinholes. Tanks thet are badly rusted, often get far worse during the prepping process before the Kreem. I use small fine stones and give the tank the "shake-N-bake" treatment to uncover bad rust, then I check the pinholes by filling the tank with some fuel to get an idea if it's worth Kreeming or not. Some tanks simply are too far gone to try and save. The worst spots are deep down
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top