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Kz1000 carbs on gs1000 engine.

Monique

Monique

Forum Newbie
Greetings. I have a gs1000 engine on a 750 frame. vm26ss synced carbs from kz1000. No air box or pods. 4 into 1 exhaust. 17.5 pilot jets. 125 main jet. Needle clip set 1 up from center on 5DL37 needle. Air screw set 2 turns out. Good when throttle is twisted up to 1/3 throttle. No off idle stumble. Will only get to 1/2 throttle when throttle is slowly eased from 1/3 up to 1/2. If throttle is snapped from 1/3, there is a bog. Bogs when past 1/2 throttle. Deceleration pop occurring. Float height at 22mm. Think I getting rich bog cause if I pull choke while moving the bog gets worst. Tried 115, 117.5 jets and various needle clip positions and air screw adjustments to no avail. Currently setting is best i have gotten it to work. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
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Why are you trying to tune the carbs with open throats like that? Get some proper pods at least. No china junk either. APE may have something that fits. They are quality and cheaper than real deal K&N's. UNI foam jobbies could be used in a pinch. Anyway, the stock carbs used a 95 main jet. 125 is 12 steps richer.
 
Nessism said:
Why are you trying to tune the carbs with open throats like that? Get some proper pods at least. No china junk either. APE may have something that fits. They are quality and cheaper than real deal K&N's. UNI foam jobbies could be used in a pinch. Anyway, the stock carbs used a 95 main jet. 125 is 12 steps richer.
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Pods on, pods off. Same result. Went with jetting based on different sources. AI. Other bikers. Mechanics. Still running into a wall.
 
Instead of using AI, how about searching the archives here for info? There are countless posts about rejetting with pods, although none that I remember when using KZ flavor VM's. General rule of thumb, when rejetting with pods, is to bump the mains about four sizes from stock, and start there. Also, get the proper pilot air jet restrictors, from Zed, or make your own. That helps with the low speed issues. If using the restrictor jets, you won't need to bump the mains so high either. Just a size or so.
 
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When I switched from standard air box on my 1982 GS1100E to APE pods, it wouldn't run well until about 90% of the pods were covered with electrical tape. V&H "Street Megaphone" was already on.

Using Dynojet jets (and his dynamometer), my mechanic was able to get it perfect.

1. Dynojet jets are expensive, but worth it. (Just like dynamometers.)
2. Cover up a good portion of those carb inlets with something.
 
Monique said:
Greetings. I have a gs1000 engine on a 750 frame. vm26ss synced carbs from kz1000. No air box or pods. 4 into 1 exhaust. 17.5 pilot jets. 125 main jet. Needle clip set 1 up from center on 5DL37 needle. Air screw set 2 turns out. Good when throttle is twisted up to 1/3 throttle. No off idle stumble. Will only get to 1/2 throttle when throttle is slowly eased from 1/3 up to 1/2. If throttle is snapped from 1/3, there is a bog. Bogs when past 1/2 throttle. Deceleration pop occurring. Float height at 22mm. Think I getting rich bog cause if I pull choke while moving the bog gets worst. Tried 115, 117.5 jets and various needle clip positions and air screw adjustments to no avail. Currently setting is best i have gotten it to work. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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When fitting pods or running open carbs you only need to fit air correctors and up the mains a couple of sizes.
The rest of the jetting and needle position remains stock.
The current 125 mains are too big , the needle should be put back to the middle (3rd) groove and air screw should land around 1 1/2 turns out..
Also aggressive snapping open of the throttle at any rpms will induce bogging no matter how perfect the jetting is..
 
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As I said in the original post. Tried 115, 117.5 jets and various needle clip positions up and down and air screw adjustments increasing and decreasing to no avail. I either end up with lean bog, rich bog which i determined by pulling on choke while riding and getting the bog. No setting so far has resulted in me getting past 1/2 throttle. Current setting is best i have gotten it to work to even get to 1/2 throttle.
 
"aggressive snapping open of the throttle at any rpms (will) induce bogging no matter how perfect the jetting is.."

I disagree. My mechanic, using Dynojet jets and his dynamometer, said it only took him a few tries, and then instant starting (with choke of course), beautiful idling and (very) strongly pulling past red line in any gear with nary a choke, bog or stutter no matter how violent you are with the throttle. And I can be VERY violent with the throttle.

I have APE pods, V&H 4-into-1 pipe, but I cannot offer any info about jet sizes or other carb settings. Sorry. The bike made 99.3 horsepower at the rear wheel.
 
Rob S. said:
"aggressive snapping open of the throttle at any rpms (will) induce bogging no matter how perfect the jetting is.."

I disagree. My mechanic, using Dynojet jets and his dynamometer, said it only took him a few tries, and then instant starting (with choke of course), beautiful idling and (very) strongly pulling past red line in any gear with nary a choke, bog or stutter no matter how violent you are with the throttle. And I can be VERY violent with the throttle.

I have APE pods, V&H 4-into-1 pipe, but I cannot offer any info about jet sizes or other carb settings. Sorry. The bike made 99.3 horsepower at the rear wheel.
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Your bike has CV carbs. OP, and Zed's comments are related to the mechanical slide VM type carbs. CV masks ham fisted throttle application.
 
Back [n those days some of the Kawasaki VM's had accelerator pumps. A few folks, around here, put them on their GS's thinking that pump was an improvement.
 
rphillips said:
Back [n those days some of the Kawasaki VM's had accelerator pumps. A few folks, around here, put them on their GS's thinking that pump was an improvement.
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Sorry. No accelerator pump on mine. I opted for the slides as a matter of on hand availability as the 1150 cv carbs that I purchased the bike with had reached their life end.
 
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