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Leaky carb

  • Thread starter Thread starter Audioslave784
  • Start date Start date
Hey audioslave, you obviously know how to ride a bicycle right? Ever try to teach someone and get kinda frustrated cause they dont know how?
These guys have so much knowledge of these bikes its kinda hard for some of em to understand why everyone dont.
Take with a grain of salt and use the info you've been givin.
 
Don't get discouraged. The more you resurrect these bikes the better you will get at it. It may take multiple attempts to learn how to acquire the skills to repair your bike. Over time you will develop a check list of what needs to be done on a bike that has been sitting for years.

I've noticed that there are many people on this forum that would rather cut corners and ride a bike that runs like crap than take the time and inspect/repair each system on the bike. We all like to ride, but its much more enjoyable on a bike that runs like its supposed to. Once the maintenance has been done on these bikes, they are very reliable machines.
 
Audioslave784 said:
This past weekend I cleaned my carbs and put them put them back on the bike. The next morning I noticed that carb #1 was leaking some gas...
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Nessism said:
Sorry to sound harsh but how can you "clean" your carbs if you never took the float needle out?
It's time to do a hard stop and perform a complete carb rebuild. Do not pass go, do not collect $200. Go straight to jail and don't come out until you clean the carbs properly and replace all the O-rings with a kit from cycleorings.com. The 30 year old o-rings in your carbs are hard and brittle, time to change them unless it's been done recently...

You just proved that short cuts are long cuts when it comes to cleaning carbs...
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rustybronco said:
It's also a pain, when someone asks what's wrong with their carbs after an overhaul... :D
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Audioslave784 said:
Well now, I'm not sure I deserve all that. This is my first time inside a set of carbs, and I "cleaned" a lot of rust and build-up off of the jets according to a guide linked from Bikecliff's website...


Now please don't talk down to me about how you "love your GS's around here". It's been a huge challenge for me to try and bring this GS back to life after it was left for dead in some guy's yard.

So I'm sorry for the rant - I know that you were trying to be funny there and I appreciate that you included some helpful advice, but I just spent my whole Sunday checking valve clearances (they're all low of course) and your somewhat condescending comments about how I treat my bike really hit a nerve.
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Then the best thing you could have done was clean your carbs like you said you did. then, we wouldn't have had to guess where to start.

You had a guide on how to properly clean your carb's, yet you chose not to follow it.

I'd smack you too! :D j/k, then I would offer, "if you're in my area" to help you clean them...

***edit***
Octain said:
These guys have so much knowledge of these bikes its kinda hard for some of em to understand why everyone dont.
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Octain, I think you might have missed the true reason.
 
Last edited:
rustybronco said:
Then the best thing you could have done was clean your carbs like you said you did. then, we wouldn't have had to guess where to start.

You had a guide on how to properly clean your carb's, yet you chose not to follow it.
Click to expand...

I following the walk-through for carb cleaning to a T (it's linked in my last post, and on one of Bikecliff's pages), and it doesn't have you take off the floaters at all. The guide isn't really for a re-build, it just focuses on cleaning the built-up crap out of the needles. I certainly didn't mean to mislead anyone here about what was done.

In my mind I had eliminated the float pin o-ring as a culprit as a leak-free seal is made when the floaters are lifted manually. I'm pretty sure now that the answer is that the floaters were bent or damaged while I had the carbs opened up (although I'll be doing a full rebuild while I'm in there).

I appreciate the helpfulness of everyone who posted here in spite of my frustrating noob-ishness :D But never fear, I really do care about the bike, and in the end I will make sure that my GS is as road-worthy as any here.
 
Audioslave784 said:
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm really not looking forward to getting that float pin out, but I guess it's got to be done, and anyway it looks like there's a lot of good advice on the GSR on getting them out without breaking the posts.

The plan now is to check the following:

1. Float valve seat keeper tap bent?

2. Floaters bent?

3. Floater buoyancy

4. Valve and seal

5. Buy a new damn petcock from z1

Not sure if I can get to it this weekend, but when I do I'll let you guys know how it goes.
Click to expand...

I have had luck getting the float pins out buy using a razor knife like you would use to cut sheetrock. Gently slide the razor blade between the post and the fat head of the pin till it moves out a little then go a little deeper it should move some more you then use a little side ways movement or go to a slightly larger blade like a small screw driver and they should come right out. It's when you try to drive them out with something that you get in trouble. good luck
 
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