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Leaky Front Banjo

  • Thread starter Thread starter anikmankar
  • Start date Start date
A

anikmankar

Guest
Hi

I think I must have changed about 10 washers trying to stop this leak. There is a fine hair line leak from the front break banjo (at the caliper end). I have tightened it quite a lot and afraid it might slip if tried any further..

Any ideas how to stop this !@$@#$ leak.

thanks
Anik
 
Maybe there is a dent or corrosion on the banjo or bolt. If you can find one, I would just replace the hose AND the bolt along with all the washers. According to the shop manual the hoses are to be replaced every two years anyway (although we all ignore that recommendation :))



anikmankar said:
Hi

I think I must have changed about 10 washers trying to stop this leak. There is a fine hair line leak from the front break banjo (at the caliper end). I have tightened it quite a lot and afraid it might slip if tried any further..

Any ideas how to stop this !@$@#$ leak.

thanks
Anik
Click to expand...
 
new bolts

new bolts

Hi thanks...

Have already put new bolts and machine leveled the break housing (where the banjo fits)...the only other alternative is to replace the hoses.

I remember reading about the crushed washers coated with rubber...any ideas where to get these...
 
I had much the same problem until I bought some high-quality aluminum sealing washers from Spiegler.

The aluminum sealing washers sold by the local motorcycle shop were low-quality junk. The washers from Spiegler sealed perfectly on the first try.

So try another source for the washers. Quite often, you can use the original Suzuki washers a few more times.

I've never had any luck with copper washers, and they definitely can't be used more than once.

A Harley-Davisdon shop would have the rubber-lined brake banjo washers, but you don't need them.
 
Copper Washers

Copper Washers

Yes - currently crome copper washers (from Bike bandit)...
 
Check down inside the hole that the banjo bolt screws into. There may be a hairline crack running down into the hole from the bolt being overtightened in the past.
 
crack

crack

Actually there was one...Have got it welded and leveled.
 
anneal the sealing washers

teflon tape the threads.

get a new mastercylinder,banjo bolt, washers etc....

what is your time worth?

You can't make chicken salad out of chicken ****.
I said that to make a point dealing with damaged parts.
 
anneal ???

anneal ???

How do i do that ?

Thread : Did teflon the thread
Bolt : IT is a new bolt
Washers : all new washers
Break Line : Thats still about 20 yrs old. This line is very shot as it goes from the caliper to the Anti dive. (its leaking at the anti dive side)
 
you heat it up and let it cool slowly or something like that. most people on here get rid of that anti dive unit i think. i dont have one on my bike though.
 
A trick I learned off my dad when I was a kid - when using copper washers heat them up (blowtorch) first and let them cool down. Improves their sealing properties 100%. I've never had a problem doing this on any brakelines.
 
The sealing washers are plenty soft to begin with and should not be heated. They are plenty cheap so just replace them if needed.

Speaking of sealing washers...I've noticed a slight difference between different brands. If you have the wrong size they may not properly seal at the banjo. Another possiability is that the banjo itself is damaged on the sealing surface. Inspect all parts carefully and replace as necessary.
 
Last edited:
Nessism said:
The sealing washers are plenty soft to begin with and should not be heated.
Click to expand...

I disagree - I haven't seen decent copper on just about anything for 20 years. Proper copper (excuse the rhyming) should be real soft and go green (cuprous) on contact with air moisture in no time. The only green copper you see now is on old cathedrals or gents urinals.

What passes as copper nowadays is full of impurities and has lost a lot of its physical properties. That bit of heat can make a world of difference.
 
hampshirehog said:
I disagree - I haven't seen decent copper on just about anything for 20 years. Proper copper (excuse the rhyming) should be real soft and go green (cuprous) on contact with air moisture in no time. The only green copper you see now is on old cathedrals or gents urinals.

What passes as copper nowadays is full of impurities and has lost a lot of its physical properties. That bit of heat can make a world of difference.
Click to expand...

Banjo washers are often times aluminum, and the copper ones are typically plated so they don't turn green. I haven't looked closely at the stock Suzuki washers but I know they are silver colored thus are not pure copper.
 
Washers

Washers

The washers I have are from Bikebandit. They are silver in color and pretty soft to begin with. Let me try the annealing process and see if it works.

any comments on the washers with o-rings...

http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ERL 1781

Before these I tried using the Aluminium washers they also worked...Have these on the other side - no leaks. I have run out of those hence using the bike bandit ones.
 
The amount of effort you've needed to exert to fix this problem seems very over characteristic. If I was you I would stop messing around with my existing parts which must be damaged in some way. I would go on ebay and find a nice replacement unit. Bolt on the new caliper and hose and be done with it. Save your existing setup for parts.
 
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