Locating the rear wheel

[standswithabeer]

was the new tire spin-balanced on a machine? maybe the inner spacer has been missing for some time, and when the wheel was installed on the balancer, the cone-shaped ends that are used to secure the wheel were tightened too much. this could have pushed a bearing in, if no spacer was there. grasping at straws here.

i assume the sprocket alignment is now off by the same amount?

 

[GregT]

was the new tire spin-balanced on a machine? maybe the inner spacer has been missing for some time, and when the wheel was installed on the balancer, the cone-shaped ends that are used to secure the wheel were tightened too much. this could have pushed a bearing in, if no spacer was there. grasping at straws here.

i assume the sprocket alignment is now off by the same amount?

Sprocket alignment should still be fine. It's set by the spacers on the LH side and the position of the bearing in the sprocket carrier.

I'm beginning to think that questioning the shop about any problems that might have occurred during the tire fitting and balancing could be worthwhile.

 

[Allie]

Sprocket alignment should still be fine. It's set by the spacers on the LH side and the position of the bearing in the sprocket carrier.

I'm beginning to think that questioning the shop about any problems that might have occurred during the tire fitting and balancing could be worthwhile.

Perhaps so. I may very well give them a jingle before I go to work tomorrow. They're not open on Sun/Mon, and the owner will be back from a trip by then too. I went to high school with they guy and he knows these bikes inside and out, so he will make sure it's right if it's a matter of anything the man child on duty did to my wheel.

The event that caused this situation was either -I lost a spacer- OR -tech altered the bearings somehow-. I can easily believe I lost a spacer but there does not appear to be anything missing vs. parts diagram. I'm not sure how the tech could have altered the bearings if they sit on a fixed shelf in the hub. I will say that the central 'tube' in the hub between the two bearings is NOT loose, it's quite snug.

 

[Guest]

What happens if you put spacer '8' between spacer the 'top hat' spacer and the caliper holder?

 

[Allie]

What happens if you put spacer '8' between spacer the 'top hat' spacer and the caliper holder?

That spacer is probably between 1-2cm wide. Mounted in that fashion places the caliper too far in the other direction. Much further than the 1.4mm that it's off presently.

 

[Guest]

Yep, I see that now. And the fiche I looked at said you have all the parts, and in the right order. Nothing on the sprocket side should affect clearance between caliper, disc and spokes. If the problem is inboard of the top hat spacer, then that would explain the proximity of the caliper to the spokes, but wouldn't explain why the caliper won't fit the disc.

I think it was probably just camera angle, but one or two of your pictures looked like some of the parts may not be square to each other. Are you happy that all the various parts are fitting square and true?

 

[Allie]

It's probably camera angle and possibly a bit of smoosh from the tight fit. Without the carrier in place the caliper drops down right over the rotor nice and centered, as it always has.

 

[sharpy]

Comparing bearing seating on hub

 

[sharpy]

This is for a wire wheel but using a GSX arm. I used same numbers as Allie posted. BUT all we are worried about is why that carrier isnt sitting right. Bearing depth in the hub is close to mine and i presume the OD of the bearings as they sit in the hub is same. So wheels bearings where never removed and are in good condition. If all ure parts measure same its the only thing i can think of, collapsed bearing or no wheel spacer, by thats easy to check.

 

[Allie]

Well it seems that my bearings are in fine fettle. The spacer tube is present between the bearings. The inside and outside diameters of the bearings are flush. It seems like the only option left is a bent caliper mount. That's a pretty sturdy hunk of aluminum so that's highly improbable. What was it that Mr. Holmes said? I don't think we need to know the width of it either, only how far the inside of it sits from the bearings (and consequently the rotor). I think I'm getting ready to go to Home Despot and buy a handful of thin spacers and see what that gives me. I'd be tempted to just add a 1.4mm spacer between the Top Hat and the caliper mount but I think it would have the ultimate effect of deflecting both sides of the swing arm thus equally altering the center of the axle by ~.52mm - a potentially not super duper thing for sprocket alignment. Adding a small amount to each side is likely the way to go. Hope I don't start to cover the cotter pin hole.....................

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Is it possible the shop person removed the rotor and did not reinstall it correctly, resulting in the offset?

David

 

[storm 64]

I just can't figure out what could have changed? Very puzzling. Anyway Allie, if you need any custom made spacers or washers made I'd be happy to make them for you. Just give me some dimensions.

 

[sharpy]

So did you just take just the wheel to the shop or the whole wheel/axle setup? And before you tighten up the axle do you have a spare 1.4mm gap? One thing you mite try is get a socket to suit the OD of the wheel bearing (47mm) and hit the bearing from the LHS to try and settle the bearing but there should be a lip on the inside of the hub that it sits on anyway. I know its wrong/weird but ill just be adding the 1.4mm to the top hat and not worry about spacers both sides. Then if you want to double check you can string line the wheels like in pic below. Center stand mite get in the road so be a 2 person job. Dont worry about long hunks of wood/straight edge, pic below is the cave man way and best way. String tied to a brick/whatever then wraps around back of wheel then tied to the other brick. Get the string to rest against the rear sidewall/tread of the tyre making sure its one or the other NOT both and pull tight with the bricks. Measure where the red arrows go and if all the same ure all set. Bear in mind you dealing with a 40 yr old bike with a history. You seem to have a understanding of ure doo lackies and whats ya bobs, so sorry if i have it dumb down a bit. lol

 

[cowboyup3371]

Allie,

I was thinking of this earlier and I had a similar problem some time ago. It seems the rubber cushions under the sprocket carrier on my 550T weren't fully and properly seated causing the sprocket carrier to not sit down as far as it should have. Once I decided to remove it to check other items I found a couple of them out of place, fixed them, and reseated the sprocket carrier. Sure enough everything came together just fine.

I didn't read through everything to see if you had already rechecked that so please forgive me if I'm talking out of the corner of my mouth on this one

 

[Allie]

Thank you fellows no I am not in the least concerned with dumbing down or corner of mouth talking. Any effective (and civil) method of transmitting knowledge is welcome. I will check the rubber baby buggy bumpers and the rotor. Rotor does not look tampered with but I'll double check. I keep thinking "all else being equal if it fit before it should fit now" but all else is NOT equal, somewhere somehow SOMETHING is different. And to answer question with axle bolt loose and caliper installed there is 'slight' drag on the rotor, with axle nut properly tightened there is 'considerable' drag.

 

[Allie]

Well I have the thing together and it seems to be right. The rubber baby buggy bumpers were fine, sprocket seats perfectly. Nobody's touched that rotor in a jillion years. Bearings are in spec. Since the only rational explanation is that the rear axle intersected with a wormhole while the wheel was at the shop, I went full-on Voyager for my solution. What I ended up doing is installing a 'multi-phasic spatial distortion compensator' - bought from the fasteners aisle at Home Teapot for $2.83 - whereby I increased the distance from the caliper mount to the hub by ~2mm while simultaneously decreasing the distance from the caliper mount to the swing arm by ~2mm, dispensing with any niggling worries about wheel center when mounted in the swing arm. I may shoot spacer 8 into space to appease the wormhole gods since it's been replaced by the multi-phasic unit. Caliper is now sitting in the catbird seat and the rotor glides blissfully through its ceramic embrace. It's now just a matter of adjusting the chain and torquing everything down. I remain guardedly optimistic until we get a few light years under our belt with no further spatial distortions.

Thank you all for your help and patience. If I ever figure out what REALLY happened here I'll update for your curiosity. I may need to wait until tricorders hit the market so I can test for wormhole energy signatures.

 

[storm 64]

Well Allie, I'm glad you got it figured out one way or the other. Sometimes the other is the way to go... When I'm at work they'll ask if I can do a particular job. I always answer back "sure I can, one way or the other" The other usual cost more time and money... Sometimes you just got to do whatcha' have to do.

 

[posplayr]

There is a wheel alignment thread that explains where all the worm holes are using a transfinite linear model of the local hyperspace otherwise known as the “ string method”. The ordinal predecessor seeks alignment on the juxtaposition of successor / predecessor of the weight bearing , but fractally bounded singularities( the wheels)

 

[Allie]

There is a wheel alignment thread that explains where all the worm holes are using a transfinite linear model of the local hyperspace otherwise known as the “ string method”. The ordinal predecessor seeks alignment on the juxtaposition of successor / predecessor of the weight bearing , but fractally bounded singularities( the wheels)

I will certainly refer to that info. Or I could just install an infinite improbability drive and whip up a nice hot cup of tea.