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Low Cost / High Performance GS1100E Head work

Ronin, one of my heads will get you 140 at the back wheel & 9.30 quarter mile potential with the parts you have listed. I speak from experience & have one here that DOES just that! Ray.
 
Ray,
Would that be with +1mm intake valves, or stock (27mm) GS1100?
Carb recommendations? Bike will be primarily street driven...on twisty roads...
Methinks I need to give you a shout sometime soon...

.
 
ronin1166 said:
Ray,
Would that be with +1mm intake valves, or stock (27mm) GS1100?
Carb recommendations? Bike will be primarily street driven...on twisty roads...
Methinks I need to give you a shout sometime soon...

.
Click to expand...

You can look at the flow rate comparisions (first post) between two 1100E heads one with 27mm and the other with 28mm intakes). Terry got even more flow out of the 27mm head but at lower lift you can't beat the extra size.
 
Yeah, I saw that. Hard to argue with smaller-valve/high port velocity.
Still concerned about the effect of the core-shift undercut at the base of the intake-valve seats on my '83 Kat head.

.
 
How hard is it to do a valve job on a head with the guides cut at an angle?
 
riding position

riding position

cbxchris said:
Sad part about all this is now you can pick up a hayabusa cheap and with minor tuning mods and no engine work make about 170-175 at the rear wheel. The frame also can handle the HP.

Hard to beat a old GS for drag racing but I made the decision in 1999 they were obsolete as a fast street bike combination.
Click to expand...

An excellent point on performance per dollar. However, I just don't want to ride a bike in that bent over and knee up position of any 'sport bike'.

Yeah, there is the B-king, but its just ugly (m,o). That's the basic reason I bought an '81 GS1100e. Good riding position and excellent performance for the price. And, imo, not hideous. The lunch box that holds the head light is, well, goofy at best...

You are right on the head though about modern sporting type bikes. I found a CBR XX for $2000. Staggering motor, but had to dump it because I didn't like the speed racer riding position. I think that means I'm officially old.
 
So what I've gathered out of this for someone like me. No budget for my "toys" is that porting my 1100 head with stock valves will give me substantial performance gain at a small price tag. I would LOVE to do all of these serious engine mods, but, I really don't "need" it. I do however want to squeeze a bit more out of the '80 1100L engine I have before mounting it in my 83 750t. I found a set of 330 cams (new) for under 200 shipped. I'm only guessing I could have my head ported for a fairly small price? I have been annoying all of the gurus here with my petty questions seeking a magic hp fairy. I do think I have my plan formed now. Just a few more technical details about my planned setup, and I'll be golden...
 
Be careful! The HP bug gets addictive in my experience. Seems to have a life of its own:rolleyes:
What are these "330" cams you are talking about? What brand?
 
I forget the brand off the top of my head. I have it book marked in my computer at work. I'll post the info up on Monday. Hp IS addicting! I just can't afford it... :/

The description on these cams claim a direct stock replacement. No mods required...
 
The G2 and the webcams also have more duration as well. I measured '83 1100 cams at 230 deg @0.050 , web 340's and G2 cams have 240 @ 0.050. I assume the 1150 cams have more lift but same duration as the 1100's.
 
And a set of web .340's are way out of my budget. The last used 1150 intake cam I saw went for 200.00. Now tell me, why the hell would I pay 10.00 more for a used inferior part? Last I checked, in the automotive world, more duration was a good thing. I can only assume it would be the same concept in a motorcycle.

I have an '80 1100 with '80 1100 cams. They are smaller than the '83s. That is the only reason I'm wanting to bring it up a bit without spending more than I have. I think my "low budget" is a little different than others...

Sorry if I have wasted anyones time.
 
Last edited:
posplyr,

So I read this whole thread (and all the linked ones too). And this is an old thread... but the title says "low cost/high performance"

So what was the final cost, and what was the final performance?

I'm totally happy with my stock motor, but you know... more is always better. I just don't want to get into a snowball chase. >>> great, now I have too much power and need a drive sprocket outer bearing kit.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
CivilRock said:
posplyr,

So I read this whole thread (and all the linked ones too). And this is an old thread... but the title says "low cost/high performance"

So what was the final cost, and what was the final performance?

I'm totally happy with my stock motor, but you know... more is always better. I just don't want to get into a snowball chase. >>> great, now I have too much power and need a drive sprocket outer bearing kit.

Thanks,
Kevin
Click to expand...

unfortunately $1000 doesn't go too far. For 40 extra HP you will need a lot of head work (as I have)and you are probably looking at 348 cams. You will also need a hp clutch. That alone doubled your budget.

Maybe you should look a for a used drag bike.

I'm pretty sure I added 30 hp from stock with my mods but I would need bigger cams and RS flat sides to go +40hp
 
posplayr, how has your bike been running?

I would like to build my 1100e head with the same 28/23 valve sizes and similar port work. My question is would there be any advantage starting with a complete low mile 1150 head rather than my 1100 head which I believe should be in decent shape as it is also low miles?

I plan to do the 1168 kit and change to the Web .340 cams anyway.
 
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