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low power

  • Thread starter Thread starter brewmister
  • Start date Start date
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brewmister

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I just got finished with the valve adjustment on my 82 GS750E and I'm only getting half the power as before the adjustment. I set the lash at .004 on both intake and exhaust per Clymer book . The feeler gauge had some resistance so should reduce or increase resistance?
 
Yikes..is the thing noisier or queiter than before the adjustment, and where are you setting the clearance, when the follower is at the cam base circle or?
 
I rotated the camshaft until the T mark for cylinders 1&4 aligned with the timing pointer behind the signal generator.The notches on the camshafts pointing outward then #1 intake #1 exhaust ,#3 intake &#2 exhaust was adjusted. I then rotated the crankshaft 360 degrees and adjusted #4 intake ,#4 exhaust ,#2 intake & #3 exhaust .
 
I used the procedure posted by Mr.Basic and still don't have full power.I followed the instructions set forth in the manuel very carefully.I did turn the crank clockwise when setting at TDC and read somewhere to turn it counterclockwise. I will readjust for the 3rd time after my new gasket is delivered.
 
Just finished another valve adjustment on my 82 GS 750e. The bke will idle fine for 15 seconds then dies. I set the valves on 004 inches both exhaust and intake.
 
You have to measure in MM not inches :eek: ... I dunno what feeler gauges you have but generally the inch measurement is on top and the metric on bottom. You probably have no power because there is way too much clearance, is it really noisy with the engine running?
 
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The feeler gage was ordered from Z-1 Enterprises and is .09mm.
 
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Have you done a carb sync or adjust the idle screws? What does the bike do before it dies? Is it hard to keep the rpms up and it eventually drops down and dies, or does it just cut out, etc?
 
I've done carb sync and mixture screws set at 2 turns out .The bike idles smoothly at 1500 rpms then in about 15 seconds drops and dies.
 
There's no way it's .009mm - more like .09 mm. The other way is MUCH MUCH TOO SMALL as in you'll burn up your valves with the setting you mention. If it's at .09mm then I'd be looking at fuel related issues first; assuming your electrical is okay.
 
Most commonly, problems after a valve adjustment come from issues with the spark plug wires or coil wiring.

In other words, you have to remove the spark plug wires to do a valve check, and sometimes something doesn't make good contact when you hook them up again.

Or you may have the wires in the wrong order. One coil, normally the left one, feeds #1 and #4, and the other coil #2 and #3. If you have a lot of car experience, it's easy to get this wrong by sheer habit. DAMHIK...
 
I finally got my GS running like it should after a valve adjustment. I purchased a set of feeler gauges with a narrow tip unlike the automotive feeler gauges.I did discover a better way to get a more precise setting of the lash. I placed a flat edge screw driver under the rocker arm shaft and applied light pressure to get the machined surface of the rocker arm to contact the cam lobe.I was the able to screw the adjuster screw to contact the valve stem without the see-saw of the rocker arm shaft.
Thanks to all fellow members for all their time and advice in helping us keep these motorcycles on the roadways.
 
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