Lubing new throttle and clutch cables

[Guest]

I just installed new OEM clutch and throttle cables on my 1982 Katana. Should these cables be lubed when new?

Cheers!

 

[Nessism]

Can't hurt.

 

[Steve]

General concensus is ... why not? :-k

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[Guest]

Alrighty then. What's the best product for lubing these cables?

 

[limeex2]

Why Lube a brand new cable? It works perfect. Use this https://www.ridersdomain.com/motorc...aZSnOOI9HjhADBdmvPChDf1vw3AxzhnxoCdm4QAvD_BwE on cables, then follow the schedule for lubing cables. Buy their cable lube tool also. People on the ZRX forum use dri lubes used in locks as it doesnt gum up or attract other contaminates. Dont forget your tach and speedo cables. Lube your new cable when it falls into your new schedule. Dont forget to lube up pivots. Levers, shift levers, kick stands ect.
Big meter type cables can be lubed by cutting the corner off a heavy plastic bag, put cable through hole and keep wrapping rubber bands around bag to seal up. Spray your lube into the corner of the bag till it can flow into cable. Hang and let gravity lube cable. Remove bag, move to next cable if ness. Once bag is removed let gravity drain excess lube out.

 

[Steve]

Why Lube a brand new cable? It works perfect.

The primary reason a cable is replaced is because it is "worn" or "broken".

Some will claim their cable has "stretched", but that is virtually impossible. What happens is that the cable moves inside a plastic sheath. When you pull on the lever, the cable is pulled and tries to form the straightest line possible. The plastic sheath and the outer layers prevent contraction, and redirect the force to the intended direction. When this happens, the cable saws away at the plastic liner, eventually cutting a groove that follows a smaller radius, giving the appearance of the cable "stretching". As the groove keeps getting deeper, there is more surface area dragging between the cable and liner, increasing effort at the lever. Yes, lubing helps this, but it's already too late.

Broken cables are usually due to lack of lubrication where the cable attaches at either end. There is usually something that pivots, and it needs to be lubricated so it is free to move. If it can't pivot freely, it flexes the threads of the cable just past the attachment ferrule, eventually breaking them.

Why would you want to have the cable sawing away at the liner from the very fist pull? Why not lube it up and give it every advantage you can?

By the way, OEM cables and aftermarket cables both feel good from the first pull. The OEM cables cost just a little bit more, but the plastic liner lasts longer, making them the better value.

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[limeex2]

Its all ready lubed with better lube than we could ever get. Dont forget to check how cables are routed. New lower bars means your cables are to long. Sharp bends produce wear points that will eventually fail. While your in there, dont forget to clean and relube all your pivot points. Kick stand too.

 

[aclaytonb]

Sometimes all the routing and lubing in the world just won't do it. Battled my fz6 until I built a new lever arm for it - still not great. Battled the CB750. Battled the Vstar. Battled the GS. I just decided to beat the whole cable issue and put in a hydraulic clutch. $50 and easier pull than even a new motionpro cable. Haven't had it long though - might suck before too long...not sure.

 

[Steve]

You put a hydraulic clutch on your 550? :-k

PICTURES, or it didn't happen. :-\\\

I have been enjoying a hydraulic clutch on my Wing for just over 12 years now, can't imagine why it might start to suck some time.

.

 

[Dogma]

I have something north of 20,000 miles on my cables, OEM without extra lube. Admittedly, the clutch is underutilized, and the throttle cable was destroyed in the crash a couple track days ago. The cable itself didn't break, but the tube where it exits the controls. Extra lube shouldn't hurt, if chemically compatible, but it doesn't seems all that necessary for OEM cables.

 

[aclaytonb]

Not rocket science but it works. It's a GSXR clutch hooked up to a knockoff lever with a 52" knockoff brake line. Think I used a 1/4" coupler and 1/4" threaded rod to extend the clutch rod. Maybe $50 in it? Let me know if these links don't work. Not trying to thread-jack....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bZyomwASQ3SAIhYHzbEOapeFvbmfBUju/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q8KX5K8Pnvc-G5LFTn4D20QudXoW1qyr/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DxXawAAs0A8n4kbjVxzvDnAnXlo9IZAD/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H1UNmytym2RCmLPiIqnLtuATz7yow9Ej/view?usp=sharing

 

[Steve]

Thanks. :encouragement: Great job on the install. :clap: :clap:

Somehow, I had it pictured acting on the stock helix. No reason why it shouldn't work directly on the pushrod.

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