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Made some new VM26 fuel transfer tubes

  • Thread starter Thread starter sschering
  • Start date Start date
S

sschering

Guest
I got the lathe working today so I made a few parts for the GS.
IMGP0653.JPG

They are new fuel transfer tubes for the VM26 carbs.. The old rubber hat seals were shot and they dont make em anymore so I made some O-ring type tubes..
For the T fitting I just made aluminum hats to replace the rubber seals.. I'll epoxy them in place..
 
OOOOoooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooohhhhhhhhhh!

Purty!
 
Just did that myself the other day for the tranfer tubes but dont have the T. Looks great man
 
Great work on those parts.:)

I used to have a South Bend 9" but sold it before moving across the country. It was pretty sloppy but dang I miss that thing. A machinist friend help make the T shown below (for a 550); he turned the main body and I brazed in the barbed fitting. Works like a charm. There is some place selling these parts on ebay but they want quite a bit of money for them. Best to make your own!

Picture042.jpg
 
I was going to make the whole T and braze in a fitting like yours but I wasn't able to find any brass bar stock over the weekend..

I found some 1/2" aluminum bar and went with this plan..

How wide and deep did you make your O ring groves?
I need to go back and cut them a little deeper and wider.

The fitting are .429" OD. Just about .004" under the 11mm (o.0433") bores in
the carb body.

I wish I could say I did a great job on my first try but there are 3 more pieces I totally jacked up before I figured what I should be doing :) hehe.

My Lathe is not exactly your typical lathe..
The slide rest and tail stock are Elgen but my grandfather made the rest..
Bed headstock and all..
 
I was going to make the whole T and braze in a fitting like yours but I wasn't able to find any brass bar stock over the weekend..

I found some 1/2" aluminum bar and went with this plan..

How wide and deep did you make your O ring groves?
I need to go back and cut them a little deeper and wider.

The fitting are .429" OD. Just about .004" under the 11mm (o.0433") bores in
the carb body.

I wish I could say I did a great job on my first try but there are 3 more pieces I totally jacked up before I figured what I should be doing :) hehe.

My Lathe is not exactly your typical lathe..
The slide rest and tail stock are Elgen but my grandfather made the rest..
Bed headstock and all..

I can't remember how deep the O-ring grooves are but you need the diameter inside the groove to be about 1mm larger than the O-ring ID. My machinist buddy is a perfectionist and made the grooves rounded on the bottom although I don't think this is necessary.
 
Nice! I admire your ability

Two years ago I had to replace the fuel tees on a GS850...

Insanely expensive!
 
excellent

excellent

very nice work I must give you 2 thumbs up. might be a fortune in selling those parts.
 
Know how to make a fortune making & selling motorcycle parts? Start with TWO fortunes!!! Ray.
 
Don't laugh. this is the lathe.. My Grandfather made it from a few elgin bits and the rest from scratch.
IMGP0657.JPG


IMGP0659.JPG
 
The final product installed..
Just for fun I turned the centers down a bit.
Can you believe some guy in Ebay is getting $40 for each piece? $120 for the set. crazy

IMGP0693.JPG
 
If it works, it works. Cool machine.

What are the belts made of?

Bi-directional, multi speed. Nice and simple.

Good picture of some stock VMs.
 
If it works, it works. Cool machine.

What are the belts made of?

Bi-directional, multi speed. Nice and simple.

Good picture of some stock VMs.

Hmm thought I answered this but I don't see the post..

http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/link_belts/
The belts are Accu-links.. polyester reinforced urethane..
the bet is make up of little links that lock together..
You make whatever length belt you want and they run smoother than a standard V belt.
TOP.GRAPHIC.gif



I'll probably play around to see if I can make a good complete T without having to turn down a stock one as a starting point.

I'm looking at either using a 3/8" brass PEX crimp fitting as a start or making an all aluminum piece and using alumaweld rod to put it together.
 
Nice work...being somewhat of a hobby machinist myself i can appreciate those little touches that really make the bike unique...very cool..love the lathe too!


DDM
 
Hmm thought I answered this but I don't see the post..

http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/link_belts/
The belts are Accu-links.. polyester reinforced urethane..
the bet is make up of little links that lock together..
You make whatever length belt you want and they run smoother than a standard V belt.
TOP.GRAPHIC.gif



I'll probably play around to see if I can make a good complete T without having to turn down a stock one as a starting point.

I'm looking at either using a 3/8" brass PEX crimp fitting as a start or making an all aluminum piece and using alumaweld rod to put it together.



Cool.

I have an old 1940s Southbend lathe needing restoring, and belts are one of the things I'll need for sure. It originally ran off leather belts.

Accu-links, that's pretty slick.

Thanks.
 
1895 Seneca

1895 Seneca

I just inherited my uncles 1895 Seneca, still works great..
702426472_FfJGE-M.jpg


Brushing up on my old high school level machine shop skills..LOL:D
 
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