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Magic Beads! (tire balancing beads - yay or nay?)

  • Thread starter Thread starter shwaz
  • Start date Start date
S

shwaz

Guest
so i am a sucker for everything and I ordered a set of these tiny ceramic balls. probably gonna stick them in the new tires when I mount them next week. just curious though what folks here have experienced with them, think of them.

any votes for "Ride On" magical tire sealing balancing sludge?




UPDATE
adding this info for anyone just seeing this thread. best prices i've found - ordered myself 12oz for something like $1.65/oz
nejeff said:
This is where I bought my beads

http://www.tirebalancebeads.com/
Click to expand...

FYI: Just got off the phone with the seller and mentioned that I don't have a scale to figure out how many to insert.
per the seller, 2 level teaspoons of his brand beads = 1oz
 
Last edited:
They're a pain to insert but once they're in....forget about it! I'm sold on 'em though there are some here calling BS.
 
Well, you can't use magic beads and magic sludge at the same time...


Both create an unholy mess when you change the tire. (If you're paying to have the tire changed, warn them and expect to pay extra.) Tire manufacturers recommend against both. Aaaaaand... both are known to inspire fervent, religious devotion based on no concrete evidence. The devotees will be along shortly to share anecdotes.


Personally, I think they're both trying to solve a nearly nonexistent problem with magical thinking. (Other than perhaps the ability of magic sludge to seal some punctures.) Assuming your wheels and tires aren't defective or damaged, they're not going to be far enough out of balance to make much, if any, perceptible difference at street speeds. Using a simple static balance setup and stick-on weights, you can easily balance to within a few grams.

Most, if not all, racebike wheels are static balanced with stick-on weights, and that's good enough for me.


Everyone talks about how much "smoother" or whatever the beads make things, but I strongly suspect that's just what new tires feel like. I can't recall seeing a test comparing new tires with and without the magic beads.

Try the magic beads and decide for yourself.
 
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If you go with the beads..i generally use Dynabeads.. you cant have any moisture on the inside of the tire if it is tubeless. The moisture makes them clump up and be ineffective. Use the bead lube sparingly when remounting the tire and then wipe the inside dry before inserting the beads with a funnel. Stick the funnel into the tire and dump in the beads and then set the second bead to the rim and air it up. The funnel before the second bead is put on the rim is the easiest way I have found to load the Dynabeads in. But you can get both beads on and get them popped to the rim and then add the beads via a plastic tube over the valve stem. Remove the core and dump the beads in slowly so they go thru the valve stem.

Form tubes, just add the beads with the plastic tubing before putting the tube in the tire and air up as usual.
 
Never had a problem just balancing tires manually with stick on weights. Probably takes less time than inserting new beads and dealing with the old beads each time you need to change tires. As for the gunk. .......yuck.
 
chuck hahn said:
Form tubes, just add the beads with the plastic tubing before putting the tube in the tire and air up as usual.
Click to expand...
Be careful with some tubes as they have some sort of slime in them to evidently help with punctures. I don't imagine the beads would work well with those ones.
 
1mm ceramic grinding beads, the same bead but a few bucks a ton instead of a few bucks a gram. They work.
 
tkent02 said:
1mm ceramic grinding beads, the same bead but a few bucks a ton instead of a few bucks a gram. They work.
Click to expand...

yeah but probably not imbued with the same magical properties as the dyna beads.

i think i ordered... EZ Tire Beads
maybe will convert my moto into a "Truck Motorhome 4x4 Trailer Motorcycle"
 
The Dyna Bead chart....

http://www.innovativebalancing.com/chart.htm#MotorcycleChart

[TABLE="width: 100%"]
[TR="bgcolor: 99ffff"]
[TD="colspan: 7"]
Motorcycle applications are easy for all bikes, 2 wheel or 3 wheel​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #FFFF99, colspan: 7"]
Front​
​
​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 6"]
80 - 120 mm tire width ​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, align: center"]
1 oz​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 6"]
80 - 120 mm tire width (BMW Telelever only) ​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, align: center"]
2 oz​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 6"]
130 mm tire width ​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, align: center"]
2 oz ​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #FFFF99, colspan: 7"]
Rear​
​
​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 6"]
130 mm - 240 mm width​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, align: center"]
2 oz ​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 6"]
250 mm - 360mm tire width​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, align: center"]
3 oz ​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 6"]
195 - 205 car tires on the rear​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, align: center"]
3 oz ​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #FFFF99, colspan: 7"]
M Series Tires Sizes​
​
​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 3"]
MH – use 80 mm width​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 4, align: center"]
MR– use 120 mm width​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 3"]
MJ– use 90 mm width​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 4, align: center"]
MT– use 130 mm width​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 3"]
MM– use 100 mm width​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 4, align: center"]
MU– use 140 mm width​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 3"]
MN or MP– use 110 mm width​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 4, align: center"]
MV– use 150 mm width​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 7"]
These codes are typical for Harleys but can be for any tire. The codes do not go beyond 150mm in width. With these tires, the first number of the tire size is not the actual width, it is just a number. The M-code is what tells you the actual width.​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #FFFF99, colspan: 7"]
Scooters​
​
​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 6"]
10" diameter wheels (scooters) ​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, align: center"]
1 oz ​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: cccccc"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 6"]
12" & Up diameter wheels (scooters) ​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, align: center"]
2 oz ​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #FFFFff"]
[TD="bgcolor: #FFFF99, colspan: 7"]
Dual Purpose / Off Road with Rim Locks​
​
​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #FFFFff"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 6"]
Front - 80 - 120 mm tire width​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, align: center"]
2 oz​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #FFFFff"]
[TD="bgcolor: #CCCCCC, colspan: 6"]
Rear - 130 -230 mm width​
[/TD]
[TD="class: pcenter, bgcolor: #CCCCCC, align: center"]
3 oz​
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #FFFFff"]
[TD="class: smalltext, bgcolor: #FFFF99, colspan: 7"]Rim Locks - add one ounce over what you normaly use for that size tire to accomodate the additional weight of the rim lock. Two rim locks opposite each other don't require any more Dyna Beads other than stated above, as they have a tendency to cancel each other out.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #FFFFff"]
[TD="colspan: 7"]Note: Filtered valve cores do not fit all stems. They require a seat 1-1/4" down in the stem. If you cannot use them, simply rotate the tire so the valve stem is about the 6:00 position, then give the valve stem a quick shot of air prior to checking pressure.
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
 
Beads, schmeads.
I used a magic mix, what I developed myself, and will sell to you for a mere hunnerd bucks per ounce.
Simply bung an ounce or two of latex-antifreeze mix into the tyre and feel it balance the tyre out, as well as seal any punctures that happen down the way.
I happened upon this Holy Magic Formulation when I was making a tubeless tyre for my lectric bicycle a couple of years ago, and thought it would probably work on the GS, too.
 
All these magic beads or dyna beads have been debunked several times already. I am surprised that posts keep popping up about them.
 
Not debunked, they work just fine. No magic, it's the same science that's been balancing truck tires and washing machines for decades.
 
Can't be bothered to read some lame thread, but when a hugely out of balance pair of dirt bike wheels with rim locks and knobbies can be made to run as smoothly as a new street bike with the addition of a few beads it's good enough for me.
 
tkent02 said:
Can't be bothered to read some lame thread, but when a hugely out of balance pair of dirt bike wheels with rim locks and knobbies can be made to run as smoothly as a new street bike with the addition of a few beads it's good enough for me.
Click to expand...

I feel like sticking a finger down my throat when I see "I will ignore all evidence until you prove it to me" supposed analyst types.
 
I proved it to myself by putting them in my dirt bike. It's a real smoothy now.
 
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