Magnusen's GS1000 rebuild

[smagnusen]

It is my first bodywork/paint job project. I would have liked to document the painting more for others along the way, but I was already nervous about trying to get it all done in 24 hours.

I definitely had my challanges along the way, I had to repaint the red and white on the tail section after trying to fix a blemish - I also had to repaint the bottom red area of my fairing after the first coat of clear produced some nasty deep crazing on the inside curve.

 

[smagnusen]

I'm getting ready to put it all back together - I have some questions about my exhaust and jetting:

The bike came with two bolt-on yosh cans on what looked like the original header. I bought a yosh 4:1 and was planning on using one of the cans on it. Is that cool? - I don't need to change the guts of the can or anything to adjust the flow?

Second question. I know this has been covered and recovered so I'm frankly a little afraid to ask. Am I buying a dynajet kit here or is there some really good bet on jetting someone can give me. I don't mind buying the kit, but wonder if my mods aren't common enough (stock VM's, KN-type pods, above exhaust) - that someone might have the magic numbers for me. Thanks.

 

[Dave8338]

The bike is looking GREAT! As far as the jetting with the pods and a 4-1 Yosh my bet would be on the Stage #3 kit but I'm sure with some more digging you could source the needed jets right here... :-\\\

 

[tkent02]

Am I buying a dynajet kit here or is there some really good bet on jetting someone can give me. I don't mind buying the kit, but wonder if my mods aren't common enough (stock VM's, KN-type pods, above exhaust) - that someone might have the magic numbers for me. Thanks.

You can buy a jet kit, but with VMs it is not that hard to find out what you need. It does take some time and effort. Different pods flow differently, exhausts are an unknown, every situation is different. Because of this the kits err on the rich side, you need to fine tune it anyway so why not do the whole thing yourself?

As a starting point, probably keep the stock 15 pilot jet, up the main jet from your stock 95 to around 120 something. The pilot may need to be upped one size.

You will probably need to raise the jet needles a clip position or two.

Just take the time to do it right.

Do you know the procedure to determine what you need?

 

[smagnusen]

If by procedure you mean something other than plug chops then no. I hadn't quite gotten that far but was planning on rereading the tuning guides. I believe you essentially divide the throttle up and chop under each circuit - can't remember if it's top down or bottom up with the VMs. Was also thinking about getting a color tune.

 

[tkent02]

If by procedure you mean something other than plug chops then no. I hadn't quite gotten that far but was planning on rereading the tuning guides. I believe you essentially divide the throttle up and chop under each circuit - can't remember if it's top down or bottom up with the VMs. Was also thinking about getting a color tune.

Bottom up with VMs, start with idle, then fuel screws, idle jets, needles, then main jets.
Don't think a color tune would help much but maybe that's because I've never used one.

 

[smagnusen]

Sounds good, looks like there's 4 different types of jets, large and small, round and hex, and they're for different size needle jets, I think they're round but don't know if they're the large or small size.

On the plug chop, am I doing idle, then 1/4, 1/2, 3/4/ and WO? Thanks.

 

[tkent02]

On the plug chop, am I doing idle, then 1/4, 1/2, 3/4/ and WO? Thanks.

Adjust the valve clearances, synch the carbs, get the igniton perfect if you are running points.
Idle - set the air screws for highest idle. Next at just the tiniest of throttle openings, put the fuel screws in until the throttle response gets a slight bit less than perfect then put them back out a hair. Talking about maybe enough throttle to go something like ten mph in first gear, You are feeling for perfect throttle response at the smallest of throttle openings, put the fuel screws as far in as you can without losing this response. Keep the screws together, move them all at once. Then do the plug chops at higher throttle settings for the pilot jet, and jet needle clip position and finally the main jet. On Vm carbs the main jet does not really effect how the bike runs at low power, in fact you can leave the main jets out and it should run just fine up to around 2/3 - 3/4 throttle if the needles are set right.

There is a lot more info available on Basscliff's website.

 

[smagnusen]

Much thanks tkent, that's really helpful. I'll hop over to basscliff's site as well.

 

[smagnusen]

Ordered most of the last parts I need to get me up and running (not that anyone cares but I'm excited

From www.Z1enterprises.com
Jets 120, 122.5, and 150, Stainless case bolts, Dyna ignition wires, electrical terminals to replace my burned ones.

From www.cyclepartsnation.com
Case gaskets, a new Breaker Cover, S Fairing Brackets, Oil Filter, other miscellanea

I got a pretty good deal on some 3 ohm dyna coils on ebay

Question: I'm using breakers and for now, the original seperate r/r. I measured the resistance on my existing coils, expecting them to be 5 ohms, and they both came in at 3.9 - So, am I putting a 1 ohm ballast resistor in with the 3 ohm dyna coils? Thanks.

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So while I'm waiting on this and other stuff to start piling up at my door, I thought I'd have a go at all the corrosion and yellowed clear coat on my forks, springs, and side covers. I also hit the gas tank cover. I suppose I could have cleaned that bench off too, but, well, got no excuse on that one.

The bike had been dropped on both sides, breaking the breaker cover, ironic, and beating the crumbs out of the left side cover. I ordered a new breaker cover but didn't have any luck on getting a decent left-hand cover.

Instead, I had at with a sander - ended up taking the recessed emblem area off completely. I wasn't going to put one on anyway and like the clean look.

I had spent several days polishing the covers on my 550, hitting them with 400, 800, 1500 sandpaper, then going to a homemade wheel with emory, then trivoli. It took a long time.

Not wanting to do that again, I took my mandrel off and threw it on a much bigger, faster motor. From around 1700 rpm 1/3 hp to a 3600 rpm 1 hp motor. I thought it'd be way too fast. It was a little intimidating working with it at first, but it got the job done 10 times as fast. I skipped the hand sanding completely, just used more emory and cut in with some pressure at all the corrosion. A dremmel with a polishing tip was great for getting around bolt holes.

My parts start coming in tommorow, can't wait to start final assembly.

 

[cyclefvr2]

looking good man, there is a real nice 1000 someone done google it for a pic, it is sharp, i love the red paint

 

[smagnusen]

Can't resist posting one more, yosh muffler-

Instant gratification here. Really. What could be more satisfying making these old corroded parts look like new, or better than new, in minutes.

I just got a NOS breaker cover in the mail yesterday, and I was suprised how poor of a finish it has. Suzuki didn't bother to polish into the small concave areas. Oh well, it's clear-coated so I'm not going to mess with it.

Anyone have an answer on my ballast resistor question? Some of these resistors have 4 terminals, and I'm wondering if they're designed for 2 coils? Here's one:

http://www.accel-ignition.com/Produ...0&MinID=5110&productID=6539&txtSearch=ballast

 

[smagnusen]

resistor answer anyone?

 

[smagnusen]

The GS is mostly done for the season, and although I have more to post about the rebuild I was excited to get up a couple pics. Here's the before and after:

 

[Big T]

Very nice work

What did you do with the battery and electricals?

Do I see the R/R hanging down under the seat?

 

[smagnusen]

Sharp eyes Big T - the electronics are just under the seat. I originally had them right side up but flipped them over. I decided exposing the old R/R to air flow outweighed the risks of the occasional splash.

I was able to get a gel type battery to fit into the tail piece.

 

[Big T]

Did you lay the AGM battery on its side?

I'm working towards a similar set up with the Fridge, but with Katana forks and wheels and GS 1100 aluminum swing arm.

 

[smagnusen]

The battery is on its side. It's not the smallest AGM, but I wanted a little cranking power. I had to remove the compartment door and hack a little out of the rear where it approaches the tail light. It fits nicely though.

 

[DrImodium]

The battery is on its side. It's not the smallest AGM, but I wanted a little cranking power. I had to remove the compartment door and hack a little out of the rear where it approaches the tail light. It fits nicely though.

Can you post some pics if your electronics and battery with your seat removed please?

 

[Dave8338]

Very nice work. I usually lean to the restoration side of the equation BUT I can appreciate GREAT work when I see it!

That bike looks "flickable and fast" just leaning on the side stand. Impression/look well executed. :clap: