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manual cam chain tensioner?
- Thread starter ddaniels
- Start date
TheCafeKid
Guest
Lotsa guys! MOST of the dragbike guys, and most guys who've modded the motors will use manuals. I plan on installing one on my ES that a good guy is hanging on to for me, once I get the OTHER parts he's given me paid off.
However, I would ask why you were curious about installing one? Is yours malfunctioning?
Yes...I have one on my drag bike and on my street GS1100E....
Probably not a real good reason to put one on a street bike, but I just like manual stuff...
I use a Pingal petcock too...
TheCafeKid
Guest
APE sells em, you can also find em on Ebay.. 50ish bucks. You might double check that the bolt hole spacing on your motor is the same for say a 1100E, or 1000E. Those are what they are mostly made for.. Pretty sure it will work, but, I dont want to tell you something that isnt true and have ya spend money on something..
TheCafeKid
Guest
Sure. Not without a lot of cussing though
You can get in there, but you can only turn the wrench maybe a 1/8 turn at a time, so its simply faster to remove the carbs.. If ya want sir, you could bring it by after monday (im on vacation till the 5th) and I could give you a hand. Or i could simply come by if you need a hand, but I have all the tools to go fast at the house.. I just rebuilt and reinstalled a stock tensioner on my ES that was leaking like a stuck pig. Hope it stopped it. We shall see though. But I have pods, so the carbs on my bike are a 5 minute in and out job..
ddaniels
Forum Sage
TheCafeKid
Guest
My 1000G did the same thing.. Never could figure out what it was. May have been the dreaded cam end walk. Doesnt hurt anything. Rode it like a scalded dog and never a problem. Just a noise that makes ya wonder. Ive often noticed that from motor to motor, some of these old GSs just sound like threshing machines even when they run like champs.. I guess just cause they're old air cooled, no water jacket to deaden the noises..
if you have a 3 bolt well then good luck.
a person can modify their factory tensioner to a manual type.
not as pretty but you only spend maybe 3 or 4 bucks(or less) and it does the same exact job.
mriddle
Guest
TheCafeKid
Guest
WOW thats a low price!!
Seriously though, Terry has a APE for me, but in the future Id like one of those puppies... Billet is tasty
WOW thats a low price!!
Seriously though, Terry has a APE for me, but in the future Id like one of those puppies... Billet is tasty
ape is billet/anodized billet ya goof
TheCafeKid
Guest
I know! But MORE billet is always better.. Its just too bad my 750 is the older type and cant have a manual tensioner...unless of course he makes a three bolt too Ray??ape is billet/anodized billet ya goof
i'll show you how to modify your stocker then you can tell mriddle how.
i'm better at showing than telling/explaining.
i wonder if rays buddy will ship those for the same 35.00?
that would make me go hmmmmmmm in a good way
Guest
Guest
The OLD APE tensioners modified the stock tensioners. They look funky. Maybe Kris V can post a pic of his.
40 bucks shipped ya cheap ba$tage!!!i'll show you how to modify your stocker then you can tell mriddle how.
i'm better at showing than telling/explaining.
i wonder if rays buddy will ship those for the same 35.00?
that would make me go hmmmmmmm in a good way
Ray.
ddaniels
Forum Sage
Not sure what the cam end walk is. My first GS1000G did not have this noise, and was very quiet. Guess I should've kept that one. This bike does run very well though.
TheCafeKid
Guest
Some of the 8v GS, for whatever reason some and not all, develop a symptom where the cams will sideload as the cam chain pulls against them and "walk" back and forth in the bearing. Only does it at idle, as once you give it any throttle, the chain tightens up more, and the cams are pulled in-line and dont walk anymore. Makes for a ticky/rattly top end. But, apparently, does no damage. Some guys have let this go for years and years and never had a problem. Some guys have actually attempted a fix. If you do a search on it, there was a thread I remember reading a while back about how to fix it. Basicly, the wear in the cam cap that allows the walk (or is created by the walk i guess) is fixed, and then some meat added to keep the cam from doing it again IIRC. Another, much simpler fix, is to flip your half moons around so the flat part that would normally go on the outside (according to the manual, but to be honest, i guess ive always installed them backwards as it made more sense to me) is put on the inside. Wont eliminate it, but it gives it that much less room to move, and will quiet it down a little bit. Since there is a lip on the inside of the head when they're flipped around this way, they cant be pushed out by the cam, so no worry of that. Plus, IMO, they leak less often when installed this way.. Or maybe I just get lucky
