measuring cam end float

[north49]

It's pretty easy to measure cam end float without removing the cams. You can use feeler guages but a dial guage is a LOT easier. The cams will easily move from side to side by prying them lightly with a screw driver between the end of the cam and the head casting. Ian Grant thinks that .0015 " is a good number for end float. Mine measure .012 " exhaust and .011" intake. No wonder they rattle around.
I think I'll try and remove the rubber half moons and machine an aluminum piece to replace them with a machined spacer on the inside to take up the end float. This seems a lot easier and less critical machining and measuring required but maybe I'm missing something fundamental here.
Any / all criticisms comments welcomed !

 

[TheCafeKid]

It's pretty easy to measure cam end float without removing the cams. You can use feeler guages but a dial guage is a LOT easier. The cams will easily move from side to side by prying them lightly with a screw driver between the end of the cam and the head casting. Ian Grant thinks that .0015 " is a good number for end float. Mine measure .012 " exhaust and .011" intake. No wonder they rattle around.
I think I'll try and remove the rubber half moons and machine an aluminum piece to replace them with a machined spacer on the inside to take up the end float. This seems a lot easier and less critical machining and measuring required but maybe I'm missing something fundamental here.
Any / all criticisms comments welcomed !

Ive thought about this a bit, as the other thread going got me thinking... Seeing as the cams are cast, I dont think using alu would cause much issue, I mean they sit in alu bearings yanno? The only thing I would worry about with THIS method, as I thought about it using nylon or something of the like instead, is keeping the plugs locked into the head... I suppose if you machined a lip on both sides, to keep it locked into its groove, it would work no? Otherwise, *I* dont see any concern, and frankly, Id like to have a set if you get em to where you can produce them fairly simply and adjust as necessary for the float variance..

 

[BadBillyB]

You can get these for a Kawasaki http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kawasaki-KZ-900-KZ-1000-Billet-Aluminum-Cam-End-Plugs_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35595QQitemZ320575133343...Cant be too hard to make. If the part that goes on the inside of the valve cover was to be made thicker and taller, it would give a good surface for something like a teflon wrist pin bushing to ride against. The teflon bushing could be machined to fit into the end of the camshaft and cut to length as needed. Jay at APE surely sells these in different lengths. You could probably get away with just putting one on the left side of the motor only. When I had this problem long ago, the camshaft boss(where the gear bolts on)actually was digging into the cam chain tunnel on the left side. All the wear seemed to be on this side.....Just stirring the pot......Billy

 

[ddaniels]

I'm liking this idea too. Looks like the Kaw folks already figured it out. Only thing is, you have to make sure you have a good seal underneath so oil doesn't seep out. And it will find an opening if there is one. I guess a nice bead of black permatex would be in order just like for the rubber ones.