• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

metallic tapping noise

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dave_17954
  • Start date Start date
Great job on taking the engine apart to verify everything is ok. Regarding changing the crank bearings, wouldn't hurt if they are not too expensive. I trust you measured the crank journals to make sure they are not worn too much? Wouldn't hurt since you've gone this far.

Good luck.

Edit:duaneage posted while typing...
Regarding installing valve stem seals, I use a small socket to tap them down and make sure they are seated.
 
gasket sets

gasket sets

I'm getting ready to order my parts for my rebuild. The suzuki dealer quoted me a price of $83.40 for a complete engine gasket set. This was the Vesrah gasket set. Ive noticed some opinions on these sets on different posts. I dont want to have to tear anything back apart once i get it together so what would be the absolute best gaskets to use. Is there one company that stands out more than the others with a quality set? The suzuki dealer said that Vesrah is all they use in the shop but as usual I'm a little skepitcal. I'm replacing the con-rod bearings, crank bearings ( not because they need it but because I'm in that deep) complete gasket set, valve guide seals, and also dipping the carbs and carbs rebuild kits. I get laid off the 31 of jan. so I'll have lots of time to work on it. Even machinists like myself are struggling around here with the job market. Everything has been cleaned and measured and I'm ready to start rebuilding once I get my parts. :dancing:
 
According to the Zook shop manuals i have (some of which you gave me :) ) IF you are replacing ONE conrod bearing, they should ALL be replaced. Also, it recommends if wear is inconsistant across the four cylinders that the crank be pulled, and checked for distortion, tapering, and the runout checked. As far as gaskets, i have actually had pretty good luck with Vesrah. I have NOT had such luck with Athena, as they cut theirs a little funky, and i steer well clear of Cometic. Every Cometic ive happened to have used has leaked like a siev.
 
Last edited:
I'm thinking if things are prepped correctly the Vesrahs would be a good way to go since thats what they use at the dealer....
 
Crank Bearings Question

Crank Bearings Question

OK I'm down to ordering my crank bearings and have run across this issue and I dont know exactly what to do. As you can see according to the parts look up and suzuki dealer lookup is the same on the top side of the case there are 2 #5 bearings there in the middle but when i got it apart there are the #6 bearings all the way across was wondering if i should replace them the way they came out or do I put the 2 #5 bearings on the top like it shows in the diagram or does it matter? Not to worry I havent cleaned the lower side up yet. I used plastic gauge to check them and will be putting back in the "black" marked bearings the same kind as whats in it now. Thoughts?

lowercrankbearings.jpg

uppercrankbearings.jpg
bearings.jpg
 
I would do it according to the diagram. the slotted bearings feed oil around the journal and the thrust appears to be in the middle pair.
 
I believe that the diagram for the upper case has the numbers incorrectly recorded on the center bearings. The oil feed is coming through the gallies in the lower case, so the grooved bearing shells must be fitted on that side of the case. If the grooved bearings are also fitted on the upper case middle bearings, you will loose some oil pressure in that area.

To me, the trust is usually taken up on the clutch end of the crank. I think the double center bearings are located that way for additional crankshaft support, to offset the load exerted on it by the drive train for the cams and their tensioner.
 
I got my diagram from the alpha sports parts lookup website. I noticed the suzuki dealer has the same diagram on there parts lookup and they told me I needed 8 of the grooved bearings and 4 of the plain. below is 2 pix i took from my factory service manual describing the bearings. also I'm pretty confident this engine has never been apart since it left the factory and I would think that since coming from the factory they would have installed the proper bearings. I'll take my service manul to the dealer when I order and see if they have any answers on it. I agree it may be just a printing error on the diagrams but when ones this deep in a motor you want to be 100% accurate before you button it all back up.
 
Last edited:
hello all

hello all

Well the day of good news has arrived. Got my engine completely rebuilt and all remounted back in the frame. Officially fired it up at 6pm this evening. Totally rebuilt from the cases up. $500 in parts some including crank bearings, conrod bearings, all new seals/ gaskets/ and orings, valve stem seals, piston rings, cylinder hone job, and with a special thanks to Bribird for spotting a worn 2nd gear I replaced that to. Plus a lot of cleaning and measuring done as well. Hand lapped the valves. A true learning experience all the way. Now just have too wait on my rear brake line/cylinder assembly that I'm replacing and I'll be ready for some serious riding time. Want to send out a special thanks to all the members who have given me advice. To the Cafekid I'll have to swing by this summer sometime and let you listen to a real quiet motor unlike my last visit lol. Theres just something about doing a job yourself and feeling that satisfaction when you hit the start button and have it fire right up. :D Had it running for approx 5-6 minutes tonight and NO NOISE. A combination of a bad conrod bearing in #4 and cylinder #4 which needed honed. I'm very much looking forward to hitting the roads with a much quieter ride this summer. Heres a pic of my finished motor with my trusty assistant.
enginerebuild034.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi Mr. Dave_17954,

Impressive! I've enjoyed this thread, very educational.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Thanks guys. When I get all my digital pix sorted out I'll post a link to my photobucket so others can use them for reference. I referred back to them many times during my rebuild. Or if anyone has any particular pic they would like to see of a 1981 internal gs650gl engine let me know and I can send/show I've got them all. :cool: For example heres my worn 2nd gear on the lower right which Bribird spotted after I showed him a pic of my transmisson gears one evening. When in doubt take pix as you go.. You never know when they will come in handy. And when your all done burn them to a cd and put them with your repair manual for future reference.
rebuild012.jpg
 
motorcycle pic

motorcycle pic

Took my first ride of the seaon this afternoon. A 50 miler break in ride. The motor sounded very smooth and it shifts much smoother now. And no leaks :D
firstrideoftheyear001.jpg
 
Hey Dave, very friggin cool man!! And no leaks to boot, .....I bet you feel great! Good Job!!
 
Dave_17954 said:
Thanks guys. When I get all my digital pix sorted out I'll post a link to my photobucket so others can use them for reference. I referred back to them many times during my rebuild. Or if anyone has any particular pic they would like to see of a 1981 internal gs650gl engine let me know and I can send/show I've got them all. :cool: For example heres my worn 2nd gear on the lower right which Bribird spotted after I showed him a pic of my transmisson gears one evening. When in doubt take pix as you go.. You never know when they will come in handy. And when your all done burn them to a cd and put them with your repair manual for future reference.
rebuild012.jpg
Click to expand...
Dave what was the problem with 2nd gear. It looks Ok in the picture.
 
if you look close at the insert in the hub you can see the discoloration on the one side.... it was very sloppy on the layshaft there. the teeth and dogs on the opposite side are perfectly fine but that insert was worn a bunch. it basically would wobble on the shaft. My bike has around 32,000 miles on it and the gear i got from bribird he said it only had around 10,000 on that motor and that gear was a much snugger fit. I noticed today when I was riding it shifted a whole bunch smoother.....better to replace now instead of tearing it back apart later......
 
oil leak

oil leak

Ok have got my first oil leak today. As you can see in the pic the leak is coming from the inner lip of the seal. The seal is in place and the spring is good. This is a new seal btw. This was after a 60 mile ride today. It wasn't pouring out or anything but i noticed a spray on the side of my shoe when i got home. Its not leaking at all on the outer edge anywhere but just on the inner edge where it sits on the crank. It looks worse in the pic but I think that is due to the close-up. I wiped it all down and it hasnt leaked in the past 3 hrs just sitting there. It was leaking while riding. Could this come from over filling the crankcase with oil? The service manual says to add 3.9 us quarts for a complete overhaul. I added a full 4 qts. It was above the full mark on the sight glass. For just an oil and filter change it calls for 3.4 qts. I drained it down to between the low and high marks on the sight glass but wont be able to ride til tomorrow to check on it. could it be that there was just a little to much oil and thus a bit to much pressure on this seal? never leaked here before the rebuild. :(
leak.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top