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Misfireing at low idle

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
Keith I was not able to Unplug on the right side left plug and start the bike it would not start up.
 
Keith is there some place to order a carb rebuild kit and should I rebuild the 2 carbs? On the other hand, can I just rebuild the right side?
 
Keith when I unplug the far right spark plug then it does not do it any more?
 
ccruit said:
Keith when I unplug the far right spark plug then it does not do it any more?
Click to expand...
OK. Sitting on the bike, left to right, the cylinders are 1,2,3,4.
When you pull #4 cap off, the problem stops. This proves #4 is the problem, but you still must prove if it's the #4 cap/lead, or the #4 carb/cylinder.
Swap #4 lead with #1. Start the bike. The problem will continue at this point of course, because you still have either a bad cap/lead, or a bad carb/cylinder. At this point, you know you have a known good lead (from #1) feeding a "suspect" #4 cylinder. You also have a "suspect" lead (from #4) feeding a known good #1 cylinder.
With the bike running, now pull off the lead feeding #4 cylinder. If the problem stops, the problem is your #4 carb or cylinder. If the problem continues, the problem is the #4 cap/lead (that is temporarily on #1 cylinder).
If indeed the problem is the cap/lead, there's a good chance the bike may simply die as you remove the known good cap/lead feeding #4 cylinder. That's because the bike will actually be trying to run on 2 known good cylinders (#2 and 3), one cylinder disconnected at the moment (#4) and one cylinder being fed by the bad cap/lead.
And yes, you can rebuild just one carb if you wish, or two, etc. If you're going to keep the bike long enough, you may want to rebuild all four and possibly not have to go through this again. If the problem is the carb, a simple cleaning may fix the problem. You have to take the carb(s) apart to inspect for dirt, worn parts/o-rings, and to adjust float level. The carbs must be vacuum synched too.
But first determine if it's the carb or a bad cap/lead.
 
ccruit said:
Ok Keith I was afraid you where going to say that. I have never rebuilt a carb but I will give it a shot. Does any one have a book or drawing I can use?
Click to expand...

Follow this; http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm and you should be good to go with the rebuild. As for where to get the kits, you can use partsnmore.com. It'll probably run you around $50 for all four kits (you'll need one for each carb). As for carb dip, try a car parts store such as Autozone or Advanced Autoparts. You may also want to pick up an impact screw driver. If you have a Harbor Freight near you, it'll cost less than $10. The biggest thing is that you try and do it one carb at a time, that way you know where everything goes. As you put one together, take one apart. If you are worried about forgetting, take pictures.

Brad tt
 
Brad Parts more did not have my bike on the list. Gs550L 1985 and it only has 2 carbs. I will still use the procedure on this site as far as the rebuild goes. But I would like to have a kit to use fore repair.
 
I doubt there is anything wrong with your needles or jets other than maybe needing cleaning, so a parts replacement kit should not be necessary. Since you bike has CV carbs, I suspect that Suzuki would not have made special needles and seats that fit only your bike. If we assume internals are the same relative to required seals ("O" rings"), then you may be able to use one of Robert Barrs "O" ring kits for the 4 cylinder CV bikes. I would PM Robert to ask if he knows if they would work. If they will, the kit is $12, and you should be good to go.

Earl

ccruit said:
Brad Parts more did not have my bike on the list. Gs550L 1985 and it only has 2 carbs. I will still use the procedure on this site as far as the rebuild goes. But I would like to have a kit to use fore repair.
Click to expand...
 
ccruit said:
Brad Parts more did not have my bike on the list. Gs550L 1985 and it only has 2 carbs. I will still use the procedure on this site as far as the rebuild goes. But I would like to have a kit to use fore repair.
Click to expand...
Do you have four carbs or two??
 
I placed the order for the o-rings. I did take the two cards off and clean them what I found is on the right side carb the air adjustment jets do not have o-rings. The left side carb is missing a brass washer that goes in the center of the diaphragm. Therefore, I will see if these fix the misfiring.
 
That could very well be the cause of misfiring. The carbs are rather fussy about having all their parts all to themselves. :-)

Earl

ccruit said:
I placed the order for the o-rings. I did take the two cards off and clean them what I found is on the right side carb the air adjustment jets do not have o-rings. The left side carb is missing a brass washer that goes in the center of the diaphragm. Therefore, I will see if these fix the misfiring.
Click to expand...
 
ccruit said:
I placed the order for the o-rings. I did take the two cards off and clean them what I found is on the right side carb the air adjustment jets do not have o-rings. The left side carb is missing a brass washer that goes in the center of the diaphragm. Therefore, I will see if these fix the misfiring.
Click to expand...
OK. Good luck with it.
I'm not sure about the missing brass washer, but if it's compromising the spring action, you could have poor throttle response in that carb.
Let us know how it goes.
 
Well I rebuilt the carbs and it still backfires at idle on the right side if I unplug the far right plug it does not. I am at a lost here.
 
Did you strip the carb and soak it, then blow out the passages with compressed air? Then install the jets, needles and new "O" rings and then synch the carbs with a vacuum guage set?

Earl

ccruit said:
Well I rebuilt the carbs and it still backfires at idle on the right side if I unplug the far right plug it does not. I am at a lost here.
Click to expand...
 
It would probably be wise to check the mechanical condition of that cylinder. All the tuning in the world cant overcome an engine mechanical problem. Check compression, check the valve lash and cam lobe condition and do a cylinder leak down test...........BadBillyB
 
I think I have a stuck exhaust valve. What will I need to do so I can take a look? What parts do I need and where should I get the parts.
 
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