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miss firing

  • Thread starter Thread starter chopzuki
  • Start date Start date
C

chopzuki

Guest
Hey all I'm new to this site, this is my first post. And reading everything on here and basscliffs site has been very helpful in getting my bike running right utd. I have an 81 gs650g with pod filters and 4-2 open exhuast. I put 125 main jets in it in hopes to get it running better, and the top end is much improved. But I discovered my #1cylinder (sitting on bike, far left cylinder) is not firing. It had spark, and fuel. But cruising at any speed or an idle I can grab the exhuast pipe without even coming close to burning my hand. I haven't checked my valves yet, waiting on shims and a feeler gauge. But could a dead miss be caused by the valves?? Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
 
Hi. If she runs fine on WOT it's probably a blocked pilot circuit. But you are wise to check those valve clearances - do that before doing anything else.
 
I rebuilt all 4 carbs 2 months ago. Still misses regardless of rpm
 
chopzuki said:
I rebuilt all 4 carbs 2 months ago. Still misses regardless of rpm
Click to expand...

Check the pickup tube and it's corosponding port in the float bowl. Sometimes you need to take a strand of copper wire and run it down that tube to clean stubborn crud out of it.

Adjust your valves. ;)

And fiddling around with trying to jet those carbs by hand is an effort in futility. You'll likely give up before you get it. The stock needles are just not designed to work with pods. See if you can find a Dynojet kit.
 
See if your spark plug boot is threaded into wire and not burnt rubber.
Is there fuel leaking out of the rear of it? If not the pilot jet is clogged. Take it out and see if you can see light through it.
 
The pilot jets are new 2 months ago. After a run, if I pull the plug its wet with gas. And I checked the spark and it has spark too.
 
Just for sh!ts and giggles unscrew the spark plug boot and cut the wire a little and rethread it into fresh wire.
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. chopzuki,

chopzuki said:
I rebuilt all 4 carbs 2 months ago. Still misses regardless of rpm
Click to expand...

I hate to harp on this, but did you clean the carbs properly? Or did you just stick in some aftermarket "carb kits".

Mikuni BS(CV) Carburetor Rebuild Tutorial
(Mr. Nessism)

CV Carburetor Rebuild Guide
(Courtesy of GSR and John Bloemer)
(Click here to see the CV Carb Notes)

I have seen in this forum where members have had to clean their carbs two or three times to get them properly clean, soaking in carb dip for up to 24 hours.

Now let me dump a TON if information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
hat1.gif


Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

carpet.jpg


Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Well thank you for such a nice welcome. This truly is the best forum I've found to date. And I unfortunatly didn't soak the carbs, though I did clean scrub and blow them out with air before the new guts. And I noticed today the dead cylinder pops on deceleration, not sure if that meaNs anything. And random question but what could prevent me from seeing through my oil sight? Cause as of right now I can't see through it lol
 
The oil sight is just years of crud and build up. Take the cover off (get a new gasket) and clean it out with a qtip and cleaner. Or, you can just order a new glass and replace it. Search on here for the tips on doing that.

I would also recommend you look at those wires like was mentioned AND CLEAN THOSE CARBS PROPERLY
 
chopzuki said:
I haven't checked my valves yet, waiting on shims and a feeler gauge.
Click to expand...
Just wondering how this works? :-k

If you haven't checked the clearances, how did you know what shims to order? :confused:

I really, REALLY hope you did not waste your money on a "shim kit" that has two of every size made. :oops:

Until you KNOW what sizes you need (and how many of them) you should just go down to the corner auto parts store, get a feeler gauge set (make sure it goes thin enough), and start measuring.

By the way, I have FIVE GS bikes to keep going, and have spent less on shims for all of them over the last six years than the cost of the shim kit.

And, ... also while you are waiting for your feeler gauge, feel free to take advantage of the offer in my sig.
down2.gif


.
 
chopzuki said:
But I discovered my #1cylinder (sitting on bike, far left cylinder) is not firing. It had spark, and fuel. But cruising at any speed or an idle I can grab the exhuast pipe without even coming close to burning my hand.
Click to expand...
I think you answered your own question without realizing it. :o
chopzuki said:
And I unfortunatly didn't soak the carbs, though I did clean scrub and blow them out with air before the new guts.
Click to expand...
There is NO WAY you can properly clean the carbs without dipping/soaking the carbs.
noway.gif


The passages that get clogged are deep inside the carb body, so no amount of spraying, scrubbing and blowing will get them clean. They have to be soaked long enough to get the crud soft enough to spray out. Depending on how long the bike was parked before you got it, that can take a full day for each carb.

.
 
Believe it or not I leaned out the airscrews and it cleared up. And all my valve clearances were within spec. Less than 4 thousand original miles on the bike and it shows :)
 
chopzuki said:
Believe it or not I leaned out the airscrews and it cleared up. And all my valve clearances were within spec. Less than 4 thousand original miles on the bike and it shows :)
Click to expand...
Was the #1 sparkplug wet then before (flooding) ? [EDIT- went back and reread the thread and saw that you already said that it was]

By leaning out the airscrews you may be covering up another problem. Keep an eye on the plugs, because burning up the valves by running lean is a whole world of another problem. These bikes are known for being setup lean from the factory...the stock pilot mixture screws setting is 1 1/2 turns out, and I've read many accounts of members ending up with them at 2 1/2 to 3 turns out using the highest idle method.
 
chopzuki said:
Believe it or not I leaned out the airscrews and it cleared up. And all my valve clearances were within spec. Less than 4 thousand original miles on the bike and it shows :)
Click to expand...
Since you don't have any "air screws" on the bike, I am wondering what you turned and which way. :-k

If you turned the "idle mixture adjustment screws" anti-clockwise, you actually RICHENED UP the mixture.

IMG_2958.jpg


.
 
chopzuki said:
Believe it or not I leaned out the airscrews and it cleared up. And all my valve clearances were within spec. Less than 4 thousand original miles on the bike and it shows :)
Click to expand...
I'm very gullible! but you are lucky that PO readjusted the valves after break-in so they are all within spec. Just why did you "rebuild" the carbs at 4k? As others have hinted, a good cleaning would have done the trick- aftermarket rebuild kits tend to be poor quality. Sure you need new o-rings, but the needles, jets, etc., would likely outlast everything else.
 
Ok I mistook the idle mixture screw for air screws. I blame it on my inexperiance with cv carbs. And I rebuilt the carbs because the bike sat for years before I got it, which is why it only has 4000 miles. But I actually did figure out the problem, I just took the bike on a 200 mile trip yesterday and it ran beautiful. I'm not sure if this is a common problem or not but when I'm riding normally, with my feet on the pegs, I can barely hit 40mph. When I pick my feet up and rest them on the cases, the bike runs great all the way up to top speed. :confused:


The bike has pod filters, could my legs be blocking them? They're a good 2-3 inches away while riding normally. With my legs up however the filters have easier access to air, maybe with my legs down a low pressure area is creating thus richening the carbs? Hopefully someone knows.

And are forward control kits available anywhere? Or possible?
 
chopzuki said:
Ok I mistook the idle mixture screw for air screws. I blame it on my inexperiance with cv carbs.
Click to expand...
That's OK, you are not the first (nor will you be the last) to do that. :o


chopzuki said:
I rebuilt the carbs because the bike sat for years before I got it, which is why it only has 4000 miles.
Click to expand...
Commendable attitude. Some guys would have thought "... but it only has 4000 miles on it, it shouldn't need anything." :eek:


chopzuki said:
I actually did figure out the problem, I just took the bike on a 200 mile trip yesterday and it ran beautiful. I'm not sure if this is a common problem or not but when I'm riding normally, with my feet on the pegs, I can barely hit 40mph. When I pick my feet up and rest them on the cases, the bike runs great all the way up to top speed. :confused:


The bike has pod filters, could my legs be blocking them? They're a good 2-3 inches away while riding normally. With my legs up however the filters have easier access to air, maybe with my legs down a low pressure area is creating thus richening the carbs? Hopefully someone knows.
Click to expand...
Nice to have found a (partial) solution. The problem seems to be related to air flow, but there is no way you are blocking air to the full circumference of a pod filter. The only other thing that I can think of that would relate to turbulent air is your carb vents. Do you still have the vent hoses on the carbs? If so, the ends are probably in turbulent air, which upsets the atmospheric reference that is necessary for the carbs to work properly. Most of the guys that have pods will say to remove the vent tubes. Personally, I believe you can leave them on, but make sure the ends are in an area of relatively still air.


chopzuki said:
And are forward control kits available anywhere? Or possible?
Click to expand...
With enough time, money and creativity, anything is possible, but there are no ready-made kits for that bike.

.
 
On all of my bikes with pods, I run the vent tubes to just in front of the battery or under the seat.

Daniel
 
Yep, pull the air vent hoses ,or Tuck them out of any possible rough air.

Mine are currently an inch long aimed straight up. (My OCD will not let me leave an exposed nipple fitting be)
 
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