More Ponys Please

[twr1776]

I am going to do some mods to my GS1000 and wanted to know what percentage / HP gain can be expected from the various methods. I have three mouths to feed (see below) and not an unlimited budget so I was going to start with a V & H pipe and jet kit. I would also like to upgrade the ignition for reliability. Any suggestions? I am surrounded with HD straight pipes and upturned noses so in the spirit of equality me thinks the hood needs the sweet sound of the V & H on a motorcycle that actually performs. Thanks

 

[xDUKEx]

the best HP upgrade for these bikes is carbs !!!! 20 to 30 percent gain depending on the carbs. 33 mikuni's smoothies or 34 flatslides. the vacumn petcock and vacumn system just holds these motors back. i love mine !!! as for ignitons go with a dyna and dyna coils. the problem is HP is never cheep!!!

 

[Guest]

I'm not sure of the exact % increase, but you will gain a noticeable power increase by going with the pipe, pod filters (use K&N), and jet kit. Throw in a new set of Dyna coils, wires, and a Dyna S ignition and you have a nice powerful reliable engine.

Those are the only engine mods on my Skunk. Last year at Street Vibrations, I went heads up with my buddy Tom on his all stock Skunk on the Dyno Drags. I was getting him by about 1 second in the 1/4 mile.

Here's a sound clip of the V&H pipe. The Harley boys in the hood will stand up and take notice! :-D

 

[rphillips]

Just my opinion!!!! In a stock engine, if the stock ignition system is fireing properly, it's completely & properly burning all the fuel in the cylinder. Nothing you replace in the ignition system will cause any more power to come from this amount of fuel in this cylinder.

 

[twr1776]

Thanks for the suggestions on the mods. The pods, kit, ignition and header seem to be the way to go from all of the posts I have read. The carbs would also be a nice upgrade as well, I will keep an eye out for them and maybe I can find a set cheap. We also have a dragstrip near me with open nights on runs. South of me by the strip is farm country and the boys all bring out there old school Chevelles, etc for some serious sandbagging and money runs. I would like to go out there for laughs and to run the bike. Since I have a shaft I am not a wholeshot guy but want to see the trap speed. I just hope my other bikes don't get jealous. Bruce who needs the Boston Pops when you have music like yours. That is exactly what I am looking for.

 

[Guest]

Just my opinion!!!! In a stock engine, if the stock ignition system is fireing properly, it's completely & properly burning all the fuel in the cylinder. Nothing you replace in the ignition system will cause any more power to come from this amount of fuel in this cylinder.

Probably true. But adding pods, pipe, and a jet kit will increase air flow and fuel supply, which would justify a hotter spark. The factory coils are adequate at best. Dyna coils burn hotter.

 

[twr1776]

there old school, nice spelling, I am really not an idiot. (Although that depends on who you ask)

 

[Nessism]

I'd love to hear from someone that has made some dyno runs after various upgrades steps. Based on what I've read in the past, pipes, pods and jetting is good for about 5-10hp depending on the mechanical condition of the engine. Carbs are good for a few more. A lot of money for not a whole lot of performance in my view. Of course, if your stock exhaust is rotted out it's not a bad way to go.

 

[Guest]

I'm putting a rack of 33 smoothbores on Ebay in the next couple of weeks.

 

[Guest]

I'm putting a rack of 33 smoothbores on Ebay in the next couple of weeks.

How much are you hoping to get for them?

 

[Guest]

I got $360 for a rack in November.
I've seen them go for more and less.

 

[first timer]

are you just running 33's on a stock engine? is the 1100L a 16v or a 8v? the 33's may be a tad big but let us know how it works out.

everyones got good recomendations and the things said are a good foundation for future upgrades like piston kit, cams, port polish.

toss the stock ignition, it's junk, accel also has a coil kit and it may be a tad cheaper. for cheap you can also get adjustable cam gears and get your stock cams degreed perfect (i think 106 degrees for both do a search), suzuki's tolarances for cam degrees are poor at best

also the more weight you can shed from the bike the faster it will be to. do a search on adding gsxr wheels or some spokes with 17" aluminum rims.

 

[Guest]

It's a 16 valve. I'm not running 33s just selling them.

 

[rphillips]

A set of 36mm cv carbs from a gs 1150 will work great on a 16 valve GS1100. I never had a dyno to measure the difference, but street racing, they really showed a difference. Like first timer said, cam timing can also make a noticeable difference, depending on how yours was set at the factory. You can slot the holes in the cam sprockets yourself. Guess I've been lucky, I have been up to a 1148 Yosh piston kit, degreed stage 2 cams, 1150 carbs, & V&H pipe, If I ever had an ign. problem with the stock ign. I never knew it. I guess it would have been untelling, how much power I would have had, if only I had installed an after mkt. ign. system.

 

[80GS1000]

are you just running 33's on a stock engine? is the 1100L a 16v or a 8v? the 33's may be a tad big but let us know how it works out.

Would you consider 29 or 33 to be the better size carb for an 8 valve unmodified motor primarily ridden on the street? Sounds like the 33s might choke a stock motor, but are they better choice once the engine has been modified with an overbore kit, pods, aftermarket ignition etc etc.?

 

[madjack57754]

A cheap (free) hp increase is cam timing . Advance the exhaust cam 2 degrees by slotting the sprocket will show a nice increase in bottom end torque that you can feel in the seat of pants meter. There should be a description somewhere in the site on how to do this.

 

[first timer]

Would you consider 29 or 33 to be the better size carb for an 8 valve unmodified motor primarily ridden on the street? Sounds like the 33s might choke a stock motor, but are they better choice once the engine has been modified with an overbore kit, pods, aftermarket ignition etc etc.?

i am running 29mm's on my currenty stock 79 1000, this motor has the smaller ports then the 80's one so i am not sure how the 29's will work on a 80's head or if they will fit. i can't compare before and after cause the bike came with the 29's when i got it. if you are looking to get 29's that will be atleast 400 bucks, you should just call sudco and see what kind of carbs they can set up for you, should be around the same cost as a used set of 29's.

here is some info i got from 80's gs1000 racer

"
The clutch is probably the weakest link in the motor, cam chain (tensioner) is next.
The rivets and backing plate wear and become loose, no doubt you have noticed the rattle at idle. They all do it to some degree. Last time I checked, falicon would still kit these with a new backing plate, larger rivets and heavier springs. I actually had the backing plate fail and one of the springs fall out of the bike I'm parting out. The oil pump (gears) subsequently failed, completely destroying the bottom end and scorching the cam journals of a beautifully ported (by Yoshmura in 1980) cylinder head. Amazing the thing didn't seize and spit me off. This topic is covered in the article I am including, not in much detail, but will serve to reinforce what I am telling you. Any pumped motor needs the clutch done. Failure is catastrophic.
When you do the top end, be sure to clean up not just the ports but the combustion chambers. They are sharp edged from the factory and that promotes detonation. Make sure they are blended into a nice hemi shape. You can do it yourself. This will lower the compression slightly and that is a good thing for pump gas. I also went to great lengths to clean out all the crap and casting flash between the cylinder bores to promote airflow. Use a rattail file or a dremel. It makes a huge difference in the summertime.
The 29 smoothbores are the only decent thing to run for the street for the 78/79 bikes with the small port head. 33 smoothbores are crappy with the big port 80/81 heads, the CV's work better properly set up. Maybe someone has figured out a later model flatslide setup, I dunno. Oh, and the cam degreeing as described in the article I'm including will also yield excellent results. All that and the pipe is probably good for >25 hp gain. "

"How many miles on your bike?
Has it been abused? I put ~80k miles on a 1980 ET model, slightly ported with stock pistons and degreed cams (and pipe). A too long bolt in the clutch cover (top front, be careful) was the only thing that undid it. I had done the topend and the porting at 40k miles. The 1980 big port head with the CV's is a better runner for the street. My race bike was a '79 with a yosh cylinder head, 1085 kit, keihin 31 smoothbores (originally for a honda CR750 and run on the early yosh bikes) and stage 3 cams. It was a monster. Welded crank a must for that setup.
I have another guy very interested in the crank. No decision forthcoming at present.
Falicon still does the clutches. The weakest link and the most destructive upon failure.
Oil pump gears and cooler also critical and I have these as well."

from robinjo

"Using the later head with the 29's is not logical, the ports are matched to 34 mm carbs (yes I know the butterfly decreases the actual flow rate), it would match pretty good with VM33's or RS34's but it's pretty big, the original Yoshi bike only used 31 mm carbs. "

so there is some carb info to chewy on, but like i said it may just be easier to go new from sudco

-ryan