• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Mosfet Regulator FH012BA

salty_monk

Forum Guru
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
I just bought one of these cheap off a 2008 Concourse.

Following Nessism with the one he fitted to his project - this is going on mine. Think Ed's is an FH014 from memory - no idea what the difference is.

Can anyone tell me if there is any way to test it's good other than hooking it up?

How do I know which is the live & which the ground? It's not marked.

The 3 plug (on the left with fins facing up, plugs facing towards you) has to be the 3 stator wires I'm sure...

The right plug has 2 wires - one is live one is earth, which is which?

Is this correct?

(Pic Deleted showing: 3 Stator wires to left plug, + to inner neg to outer connection with fins facing up, plugs facing towards you.)


Should I run a secondary line back to the battery through a fuse as well as the one to the fusebox?

Loads of info here: (Jim you'll like this link).#

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tri...-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

I guess looking at that link I've answered my own questions! Wonder what the difference is on a BA as opposed to a AA model.

Probably just connect it up to test it....

Dan :)
 
Last edited:
Dan,
That is a pretty extensive collection of installations. Looks like before long there will only be FET R/R installs and the SCR R/R's will go the way of the vacuum tube.
Jim
 
Yep, the picture is labelled correctly. :clap:

If you want to make a nice, clean install, look at the connectors from Eastern Beaver (scroll down about halfway on the page). $20 for the pair of connectors, add a little for shipping, wait a week and you will have them. If you want to go even nicer on the install, just scroll a little farther down the page, you will see a complete harness that includes a 3-pin connector for your stator wires and leads to the battery that include a fuse. Yeah, it's $40, but VERY NICE. I just put one of those on my wife's bike and I'll do it again for our other 850s when I get the FH-series regulators for them. :D

.
 
Yeah, seen that loom... thinking about it...

Anyone know the difference between the part numbers?
 
That harness Steve linked looks killer, and I would have bought it had I known about it, but in the end there isn't enough room for the connectors on my application.

The spade terminals on that R/R are wide, common .25" terminals won't fit. You can either order some of the proper width or grind down the terminals to fit. I ground down the terminals on mine but don't recommend it. I also filled the cavity with special silicone sealant, the type made for such applications and has no acid it in. If you get to that point and want to use silicone, drop off your R/R and I can fill it at work.

Ed
 
That shrink tubing from Eastern Beaver is amazing. I'm getting some of that for the GS and the Ranger bass boat. He has relay kits for horns and headlights too that will be going on my GS for sure.

Thanks for posting the link Steve!
 
... The 3 plug (on the left with fins facing up, plugs facing towards you) has to be the 3 stator wires I'm sure...

The right plug has 2 wires - one is live one is earth, which is which?

Is this correct?...

Hello - I am the author of the referenced thread, the original on TriumphRat.
Thankyou for the reference to that thread.
One small request - please do not link directly to my photobucket account as you have done in your post above - my bandwidth limit is already severely taxed due to the popularity of this modification.
By all means please reference the link to my thread directly & if you wish to use my images, they are freely available, however I would request that you download them and host them on your own source.
Also, I think it reasonable etiquette that you credit the source of the picture.

Now, to answer the first question, yes, as I had appended in my picture that you inserted in your post, it is indeed correct for all FH012 & FH010 model R/R.

....Should I run a secondary line back to the battery through a fuse as well as the one to the fusebox...
Actually I would recommend you wire as I have suggested - with the primary (indeed only) line to the battery via a fuse; eliminate R/R connection at the original interface connector/fusebox completely.

I would be happy to answer any other questions anyone may have.
 
Last edited:
Pic Deleted - sorry :)

I would have taken one myself if I'd had the camera handy.

How did you arrive here, simply from my post? :)
 
Last edited:
Pic Deleted - sorry
Pic added... the colours I used are correct per the individual plug locations. :D
PICT2556.jpg
 
Mounted one of these R/R's on my 1000S. Had to trim the heatsink slightly on the side and elongate the bolt slots to avoid contact with the fusebox. Also had to trim the plastic socket on the bottom due to clearance concerns.

I used 14 gauge wire for the outgoing feeds and 16 gauge for the incoming stator wire feeds. To seal the sockets a special low acid silicone was used.

Seems to be charging properly.


IMG_1320.jpg


IMG_1321.jpg
 
Last edited:
Also, instead of Silicone, you can use 5 minute epoxy to fill that plug void. Looks very clean and won't come out!
Or better - make the small investment in the proper connector plugs! :D

Although I can see that with the installed location in the picture above, they would be difficult to mount there because of how far the connector protrude
However, because of the low heat generated by this device you have quite a bit of flexibility in your chosen mounting point.


I worked with Jim at Eastern Beaver originally to source these - I scoured the planet and could find no-one who sold them. Jim secured them specially for me - I am grateful to his efforts in finding and purchasing these on our behalf.
They will make it look cleaner aesthetically but MUCH more important, give you a high-grade (low resistance) secure, waterproof connection - this connection is critical in a 30A circuit. He has an amazing turn-around even though these come from Japan - shipping is minimal with no extra added for 'handling' etc. You can typically have anything ordered from him in hand in US in under a week.

salty_monk - thanks for your understanding and much appreciated.
thumbsup.gif

I see links to every thread/article/forum that links to my TriumphRat thread, so I usually follow them with interest.

I used to have a GSX1100 myself back in the 80's - until I got rear-ended by a car doing about 50!!!!

I saw in your sig that you are installing GSXR front end on one of your collection - late model USD?
I am not sure how prevalent that mod is on GS - will have to research it.
But I know quite a bit about the various late model GSXR (& hayabusa) forks and their inter-compatibility re triple clamps, calipers, wheels, rotors etc.
Here's a chart to which I contributed significantly - http://www.tlzone.net/forums/freque...tl-hayabusa-fork-swap-chart-measurements.html
I've even installed an 06 GSXR1000 front end on my Triumph; and my TL and wifes SV650 also both sport GSXR front clips.
So happy to offer and advice there that I can contribute.

Sorry for off-topic - normal programming will now be resumed!
biggrinangel.gif
 
Last edited:
It's all good....

One question I have - can this RR actually improve the output of our electrical system by it's better management of stator output?

What I saw when messing with Nessism's bike is the most stable output I've ever seen on a GS right off of idle & at any RPM....

Would that mean that it would cope better with increased load like heated grips etc than a stock setup?

Dan :)
 
cope better with increased load like heated grips etc than a stock setup?

Dan :)

Yea I know it gets pretty cold down here in Redondo Beach :eek:.

The FET R/R improves on the inefficiencies of the old R/R it will not totally transform the complete charging system. I reckoned on what the power output increase that might be available in the other post.
 
Will go there for a read then... :)

I'm thinking of riding Palomar again :lol:

Nah - not for me, just for info for a mate.

Dan :)
 
Back
Top