Motor smart, oil stumped!!!

[BillGS550LZ]

Hello all,

When changing oil AND filter: the procedure is to warm up the engine, put bike on center stand, ...., etc.

Next i've read to refill with 2600ml (2.7 US Qt). Then, start motor and let run for a few secs, turn motor off, wait a minute and check oil. If oil is not to the "F" mark add oil.

This is the same procedure for checking the oil. My Clymers book, for the GS550 1977-1986 gives the following oil capacities for my 82 GS550LZ:

Without filter change: 2400ml
With filter change: 2600ml
After overhaul: 2700ml

Alas:
If while changing oil and filter we add the specified 2600ml, why, oh why is it necessary to add more??? In my case up to a half quart more.

I overhauled my motor recently. I put in the specified 2700ml of oil and the oil never reached the "F" mark on the sight glass. Never after changing oil and adding the capacity specified has the level reached the full mark! I always find myself adding another quarter to a half quart so; Is the capacity really supposed to be 2900-3100ml?

Also, oil viscosity and ambient temp makes the one minute wait rule absolutely useless in my opinion, then again I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed. Seems to me screw the half ass written manuals and follow the tried-and-true experience. If you own your 70-80s GS longer than 10years, it is still stock in good working order, and care to share your experience, I, and perhaps others, would like to hear from you.

Thanks

 

[tom203]

"..If you own your 70-80s GS longer than 10years"

I don't qualify, but it ain't rocket science! Personnally ,I change my oil after a good hot run. Refill with right amount (factoring in filter change); then after next ride ,check level after bike's been off for a while (on centerstand and someplace sorta level) and fill to "F" mark.

 

[bonanzadave]

If you own your 70-80s GS longer than 10years

32 years. Never measured engine oil. Keep it between the lines.

I overhauled my motor recently

Go back in and check the clutch hub nut and the starter clutch nut. More important than measuring oil (IMHO)

 

[BillGS550LZ]

Thanks Tom we know we can count on you to give sound advise. I've read so many posts on this, seems we are all confused, I certainly am. The manual is uncertain and that "wait a minute and check" seems to me like voodoo. Liters, ml, qt, etc., these are exact measurements, not some stick a finger in a light socket to check for power thing. Anyhow, I am ranting, sorry, did not mean to offend anyone, i hope you understand my reasoning for the "10 year", just trying to reach a consensus we can all count on.

Thanks

 

[koolaid_kid]

2600ml will get it between the marks. If you wish it to be completely full, top off as needed.

 

[BillGS550LZ]

Thank you all very much. I learned the hard way that dirty carbs, poor synch and improper valve gaps aren't the only reason engines can run like crap and plugs get fouled

Below is the procedure I will follow for my ride going forward but I think it may apply to any GS motor with an oil sight-glass.

Oil filling/check (GS550LZ bike on center stand)
If changing oil
- After draining oil (and replacing filter) add oil per specification (Oil change only - add 2.4 liters. Oil and filter change - add 2.6 liters).

Check oil
- After changing oil, warm up the oil by running the engine for a short while or by going for a short ride (not necesary if oil was not changed), let engine cool and oil settle between 5-10 min. Check oil and top off as needed to bring level to or just below the "F" mark.

Note to self: When changing oil specified oil quantities are likely just enough to get oil level between the "L" and "F" marks. Enough oil to run the motor without causing damage.

Thank you guys again. Hopefully this will help some other noob like me but I don't want to steer any body wrong, so please correct me if you disagree with anything I wrote. Thanks again.

 

[cougar]

I would warm bike up before oil change tho

 

[BillGS550LZ]

I would warm bike up before oil change tho

Thanks for pointing that out. I assumed readers would have some experience with this procedure.

 

[BillGS550LZ]

Go back in and check the clutch hub nut and the starter clutch nut. More important than measuring oil (IMHO)

Dave, with regard to your comment, during reassembly I decided not to waste money and reuse my old clutch plates. Now that I feel confident I did a good job and the engine is viable, I plan to replace the clutch plates and springs in another 300 miles or so (this would mark 1000 miles since overhaul) along with checking valves and retorquing head and other nuts/bolts.

The starter clutch nut however, my engine has a bolt and lock washer instead but I've seen other posts referring to a "nut". Just to be sure, you are refering to the fastener that secure the alternator magnets in place on the tapered end of the crankshaft, and on the left side of motor as seen when sitting on the bike, right?

Thanks for your time.

 

[jbthomp]

If i pull the oil filter in mine it is about a half quart difference. I think the oil fill spec may be just to fill the engine assuming the oil filter is already full......

 

[eil]

Oil filling/check (GS550LZ bike on center stand)
If changing oil
- After draining oil (and replacing filter) add oil per specification (Oil change only - add 2.4 liters. Oil and filter change - add 2.6 liters).

Check oil
- After changing oil, warm up the oil by running the engine for a short while or by going for a short ride (not necesary if oil was not changed), let engine cool and oil settle between 5-10 min. Check oil and top off as needed to bring level to or just below the "F" mark.

The factory service manual for your bike (here: http://www.mtsac.edu/%7Ecliff/storage/gs/GS550_77-82_all.pdf) does not say to warm up the oil before checking it. Page 68 (74 in the PDF) has the simple three-step procedure, which (except for the quantity of oil added) is the same in every GS manual I've looked at:

1. Add oil until level is sight glass aligns with F
2. Idle engine for 10 seconds, then shut it off and wait 60 seconds
3. Check oil level in sight glass, add more if level is below F

 

[koolaid_kid]

You should always warm up the oil on any vehicle where you are going to change the oil. It takes the sediment which has settled in the bottom of the pan and suspends it in the oil, then you can drain it out.
Been that way for over half a century.

 

[Guest]

My procedure for changing oil is: Take the bike out for a quick 10 mile warm up. Place on center stand and pop the drain plug, nice hot oil coming out then. Let it drain for about 10-15 minutes. Put drain plug back in and tighten.
Usually by then the filter cover has cooled down enough to take off and take the filter out. let that drain for a bit then take a clean throw away rag and clean out the filter cavity. Install new filter ( for the life of I do not understand why one would change oil and not change the filter, filter cheap, engines not) Install new oil ring and tighten down filter cover. Pour in your favorite flavor and weight of oil (mines purple, full synthetic 10w-40). Fill to F mark, start engine let run for about two minutes while checking for leak(s), all good, shut down engine and clean up tools etc etc. Check oil level again in about ten minute add if needed. All good, jump on bike and smoke rear tire down the street for a ride! Well not really smoke the tire...after coming back from ride, place back on center stand let it cool down for awhile, recheck for any leaks and check the level one more time.

 

[eil]

You should always warm up the oil on any vehicle where you are going to change the oil. It takes the sediment which has settled in the bottom of the pan and suspends it in the oil, then you can drain it out.
Been that way for over half a century.

Warm the oil up to drain it when changing, yes. But not just to check the level. (What OP said he was doing.)

 

[koolaid_kid]

Yup. Seen that many times. Seems if you wait too long, more oil drips down and you get a false reading. At least that is my interpretation. It was actually "start it, let it run, turn it off, wait 5-10 minutes and check".

 

[chuck hahn]

You have to recheck because the filter will consume some oil as well as the well will hold some. Do the required steps and add if you need to, I like it just a tad below the F line. That gives me an eye to see if the air gap is getting less ..or gone...which may be an indication fuel is getting past the petcock and I do a sniff test at the cap.

 

[BillGS550LZ]

Hello all. Thanks for all the input. I need to find a way to get notified of new postings, I thought this post was dead, sorry for not replying sooner.

In my experience, and the reason for the post is that, I followed the instructions on the manual and found that I had added so much oil that my plugs were getting fouled.

Imagine, I had just refreshed my top end, suddenly the plugs look like crap, the bike lacked power and ran like poop. Some of you perhaps can relate, you think did I screw up the ring job or valve job, when ahead and synched and resynched the carbs, messed with iddle mixture screws, check coils, was about to pull the carbs when i realized I had poured too much oil in.

The "run for a few seconds and wait a minute" then check and add oil to full mark if necessary is down right stupid IMO. There are many things that come into play, specifically oil viscosity, outside temp (30 vs 70 degree big diff), oil and engine wear.

So after inputs from bonanzadave, koolaid_kid and others it hit me, it's no different than checking and changing a car's engine oil with the exception of the center stand bit and oil sight glass instead of dipstick.

If changing oil/filter
- Warm up engine/oil (go for a ride/after a ride or run at iddle)
- Bike on center stand (level ground)
- Drain oil
Below two steps can be skipped if changing oil only
- Remove filter, drain and clean filter housing
- Install new filter and gasket and replace housing cover
- Replace oil drain screw and crush washer (if needed)
- Add specified amount of oil (oil only versus oil and filter - as koolaid_kid confirmed the specified amount is enough to get oil between the "L" and "F" marks on sight glass, and as bonanzadave confirmed, enough oil to run engine safely.
- Warm up engine/oil (go for ride or run at idle)
If just checking oil or after oil/filter change (warm engine)
- Bike on center stand
- Let engine cool/oil settle 5-10 min (go grab a beer or two)
- Check oil and add to full mark if needed

I check my oil, and check for leaks almost every day before/after I ride (habit I developed after recent engine work).

This is the entire procedure and what works for me. In retrospect, nothing to it just another internal combustion engine, no mistery, no more wait one minute boohaha for me. Thanks again, have a great Sumer!

 

[tkent02]

I have never seen any bike or car for that matter where the amount of oil it takes is exactly what's cast on the engine. It always takes a little bit more. I didn't know anyone ever looked at it other than as a rough guideline. Put some in, ride it around the block or something, check it and fill it exactly to the line. A little bit over or under doesn't matter anyway, other than being exact gives you an accurate reference to see if it burns a little oil or if fuel is leaking into the crankcase.

 

[tkent02]

The "run for a few seconds and wait a minute" then check and add oil to full mark if necessary is down right stupid IMO. There are many things that come into play, specifically oil viscosity, outside temp (30 vs 70 degree big diff), oil and engine wear.

None of these will effect oil level. It's just not that critical.

Fill it to somewhere near the window and ride.

 

[Guest]

IMO you always change the oil filter period! As I started before, filter cheap, engine not. I think of it this way, you take a shower and put clean underwear on right. Then why would take a shower and put soil undies back on?

Just doesn't make sense to me. Besides, I usually cut open my oil filter to check for any nasties it might have caught.