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My gs1100L wont make it down the street. Please help.

  • Thread starter Thread starter yoshisakan
  • Start date Start date
Y

yoshisakan

Guest
So I Just bought this bike. Since buying it, i have soaked the carbs in pinesol and completely cleaned them, putting them back together. I set the fuel mixture screws two rotations from seated for each cylinder. After doing all of this, my bike is running the same as before. It idles great, revs good, but when I put it in gear, it bogs down until it stops and i have to pull the black sooted plugs.

I also noticed that theres oil leaking from one of my head bolts. It isnt loose, so that has me worried too.

I'm not sure what to do next, but I dropped my gas tank by accident and destroyed the new paint on the bike, and it dented too. Today sucks.
 
What sizes were the jets that you found in it?
Pilot, air and mains? Did the jet needles have a nice sharp taper on them or were they dull tipped with a broad point?

Eric
 
I am changing the head gasket now. It was leaking a lot and I believe the problem to be compression related. The service manual says to torque the head nuts to 29ft lbs. That seems kind of light to me. Can anyone confirm this?
 
My manual (Clymer) says 27 lbs.

Remember, these are steel bolts going into alloy so be _very_ careful and stick the to recommended torque because it is very easy to strip the alloy. This goes for the cover and cam caps as well.
 
PM RapidRay.
He has suggested higher torque specs in the past.

Eric
 
I'm gonna go with 29ft lbs this time around. I finally got the head off. The cylinders were coated in a light layer of oil. Good news is, the cylinder walls look brand new. No scoring or anything. I think the gasket failed because of a loose exhaust at the head and a leaky valve cover in the same spot.

Now to see how to set my timing back!
 
You better pull the cylinder off next and replace the base gasket and corner seals. Big risk with taking off the head and not doing the base gasket at the same time. Also, do the valve stem seals. Consider this your warning.
 
Nessism said:
You better pull the cylinder off next and replace the base gasket and corner seals. Big risk with taking off the head and not doing the base gasket at the same time. Also, do the valve stem seals. Consider this your warning.
Click to expand...

Wish II had known this before putting it all back together. The base gasket looks good and dry though. What is the risk of not changing both at the same time?
 
yoshisakan said:
Wish II had known this before putting it all back together. The base gasket looks good and dry though. What is the risk of not changing both at the same time?
Click to expand...

The risk is that you will find out that the base gasket is bad after rebuilding the head. If you have to tear it back down again, especially if you have run the engine, ridden the bike, etc., that head gasket will have lost its bounce, seal, etc. So replacing the base gasket will require another new (and expensive) head gasket.

Basically, once you are doing anything that requires a new head gasket, your best move is to inspect and freshen up everything else in the top end. Valve oil seals are cheap, and won't survive removing the valves for inspection, so grab some of those. Once you pull the valves, even if they are clean and straight, lap the valves/seats to freshen that up.

Base gaskets are not too pricey, so swap that out too. Pistons and rings cost more, so you might inspect them first before tearing into that, honing the jugs, etc.
 
Well I wish I had known. I guess I may have to tear it down again in the future.

It's all put back together now and turns over but makes a strange clicking noise. I think I messed up the timing. I followed the manuals but the pictures of the crank timing mark were different that what I saw on my bike. When I adjusted the crank to the position that I thought they reccommended, I noticed that all pistons were at an even height in the middle of the cylinder. I am pretty positive that I got the chain lined up correctly with each cam. My sprockets were clearly marked with 1, 2 and 3.

The last time I did timing, I set cylinder 1 to TDC, but I figured that bikes might be different?
 
Methinks that's the sound of piston hitting valves. I wouldn't try starting it again.

Your first instinct was correct. You time to TDC of #1 or #4.

What year is that anyway? You may want to add that to your sig.
 
ChicagoRob said:
Methinks that's the sound of piston hitting valves. I wouldn't try starting it again.

Your first instinct was correct. You time to TDC of #1 or #4.

What year is that anyway? You may want to add that to your sig.
Click to expand...

Oh ****. What are the odds that I bent them by turning the motor over maybe 15 times?

(its a 1982 gs1100gl)
 
I would say about 15,000 to one.

Turning them once will do it if the cam timing is indeed wrong.
 
Last edited:
yoshisakan said:
Found it. http://bwringer.com/gs/tdc.html Mine is the electronic ignition one. The manual only has the mechanical.
Click to expand...


Whew:eek:, had me worried there for a moment, just did the Tempter all new gaskets, and aligned the T to the timing mark, had to go back and re-read the manual, correct for that bike...and I know, it's a GR not a GS, but it made me look just the same.:-k:cool:
 
Greetingas and Salutations!!

Greetingas and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. yoshisakan,

With the help of this forum I have amassed a lot of information that I like to share. In case I have missed your entrance and not welcomed you properly, let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
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Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

carpet.jpg


Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
yoshisakan said:
Oh ****. What are the odds that I bent them by turning the motor over maybe 15 times?

(its a 1982 gs1100gl)
Click to expand...

Ok, we have the same bike. An 8 valve 1100.

Who knows, maybe you got lucky and it was just barely touching. Maybe not.

At this point it's not going to hurt to try it set correctly. If the valves are bent you'll probably be better off picking up a complete used head anyway. The 8 valves don't command a premium like the 16 values do. If you have to go that route, make sure that you get one complete with the cams. They are fitted at the factory to a pretty small tolerance. Best to keep it together.

This time take a peek into #1 or #4's plug hole and make sure that you see the top of the piston. #4 is handier since it's right by the timing cover. A dial caliper would come in handy but if you time to brwinger's mark and see the top of the piston, you'll be set.

Remember, the exhaust cam's #1 is pointing at the head, #2 is pin 1 and #3 is pin 20. Once you get the cams and cam tensioner (you're taking that off, right?) back on, check your work by spinning the engine clockwise (always clockwise) with the wrench. I've had it jump a pin on me before. There shouldn't be any taps or much resistance with the plugs out.

Also, it's probably a good idea to check out Cliff's site and read through the top ten newbie mistakes thread that can be found in Nessiem's sig. There's a lot of good info there. You may think that you know of better ways of doing things, but in the end, you'll come around. Everyone eventually does.
 
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