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My Kat rebuild

Bandit dash mounted atleast for testing purposes for now.
I did silicone the upper housing to keep the water out
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Cheers Andrew.
 
So I have been running the EFI for a little while now and it has always had a FI fault.


As I was running the Kat dash I never knew until I connected the healtech interogator.


Had a cooling fan fault mainly because I wasn't running the cooling and I also hard wired the cooling fan relay for some accessories fair enough.


Now that I am running the Bandit dash 2 things happen.


1 the fuel gauge flashes constantly as there is no tank sender connected.


2 The FI light stays on and the odometer flashes with CHECK as well.


So to fix it I wired in the original cooling fan relay to the ECU to think it was there and added another relay to power the accessories.
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Okay FI light out and I can now access the trip meter for kilometers traveled per tank.


Next I found the resistance values for the tank fuel level sender
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Now I just had to replicate any of the values to get the dash to show a fuel level and stop flashing.


A relay I had with 27ohm resistance on the coil side was good enough to do the job.


Now I always have a full tank of fuel cool.
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Cheers Andrew.
 
Got the rear sprocket hub machined 3mm
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centered the front sprocket 4.5mm + 5mm spacers
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sprockets and chain seem to run centered
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and nice equal gaps to frame and tyre
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Need to order an offset front sprocket.
Cheers Andrew.
 
A very simple check for chain alignment is to put a straight edge next to the rear tire and look for variation in distance to the chain. Of course this assumes your rear wheel is centered and aligned. In the picture i have a 3 foot construction level. This works best with wider/lower profile tires which have less runout of the rubber sideways. If you can get the straight edge against the wheel rim so much the better.

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The brake pivot is still a bit close even after shaving the tube and weld down
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And I didn't want to chop the pillion tubes off for after market rearsets so the donor bike rearsets might be the answer and not run the Kat pivot at all initial test fit looks good.
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Cheers Andrew.
 
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Then a post covid visit to the bakery after work,
first time in 3 months.
Sausage roll, small french stick and a appl chalotte.

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Cheers Andrew.
 
Strange but true...
...to get the starter to work I bridged the clutch lever switch and all is well and it has been that way since the conversion.

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I decided to connect the clutch switch and see if it improved idle and 1/8 throttle a/f ratio seeing as there was an input to the ECU with the switch closed.


With the CLP wires bridged it pulls hard goes very well.


With the CLP switch functioning as it should it felt like a boat anchor has been chucked out the back, so much so I could accelerate with the switch off and then during the acceleration press the clutch switch (it was zipped tied to the handle bar) and it would lurch forward and pull hard and fast.


Switch wiring bridged and,


back to square one...mmm scratch head remove splinters and use to pick remaining teef.
 
Getting real close to the Bandit suspension conversion.
That onto this,

C3OfD6b.jpg


New chain and sprockets

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Offset front arrived

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Chain guard shaped to fit

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Clip ons

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Money shot

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Just hope after the mock up on the 750 Kat that the gearbox output shaft is in the same position as the 1100 LOL
 
The level of detail and engineering on this build is astounding! Kudos.
 
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