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My latest money-saving idea

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adler
  • Start date Start date
A

Adler

Guest
Pretty soon I am going to have to sync my carbs. I have seen many projects for making a sync tool for 2-cylinder engines, but never for a 4 cylinder. I can't imagine why, the principle should be the same.

Here is my idea to make a tool to do this.

First I buy one of these...
http://cgi.ebay.com/SPLIT-4-WAY-O2-...ltDomain_0&hash=item2a0d7739b1#ht_1610wt_1141

Or possibly one of these...
http://cgi.ebay.com/10-Pcs-4-WAY-AI...ltDomain_0&hash=item2a0988b200#ht_1421wt_1141

With the first connector, I can connect 4 lines to it, one for each cylinder and the main line can be attached to some sealed reservoir of oil (or whatever).

The second one would do away with the reservoir and just have the 4 lines.

Then I attach those lines to a ruler or some other measuring device.

What do you guys think? Am I missing some critical information? Will the oil just be sucked into the engine?
 
use oil or atf wont damage anything if it gets sucked in, lighter weight oil will be more sensitive than heaver. the reason most are two cyl is because you are matching one set to balance than the second set and finally matching both sets. match 1-2 than 3-4 than 2-3. if you have all 4 connected at once they might throw each other off
 
Well I dont want to build it if it wont work... Are you saying it wont?

I thought this was probably more or less how the professional ones work...
 
I am not going to tell you it won't work, but I will tell you that you will spend a LOT of money and a LOT of time trying to engineer something that will take up a LOT of room in your garage and be VERY hard to use. :eek:

All it should take to convince you is watching the process one time with the proper gauges to see how they ALL move when you make ONE adjustment.

The ruler is unnecessary, unless you just need it to hold some tubing, as there is no set number to which you must set the vacuum. The only thing that matters is that they all are at the same level.

You can get the liquid-filled Motion Pro gauge from Z1 for about $85 or, what most here consider "the best", the Morgan Carbtune, for about $95. A couple of minutes to order it, when it gets there, a few minutes to use it, and you are done for a few thousand miles. :D

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Steve said:
I am not going to tell you it won't work, but I will tell you that you will spend a LOT of money and a LOT of time trying to engineer something that will take up a LOT of room in your garage and be VERY hard to use. :eek:

All it should take to convince you is watching the process one time with the proper gauges to see how they ALL move when you make ONE adjustment.

The ruler is unnecessary, unless you just need it to hold some tubing, as there is no set number to which you must set the vacuum. The only thing that matters is that they all are at the same level.

You can get the liquid-filled Motion Pro gauge from Z1 for about $85 or, what most here consider "the best", the Morgan Carbtune, for about $95. A couple of minutes to order it, when it gets there, a few minutes to use it, and you are done for a few thousand miles. :D

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Click to expand...


Agreed on all points. Making your own manometer is a false economy.

The proper instrument (Morgan Carbtune) is worth every last penny and then some.

There's a time for homemade solutions to certain problems. This is not one of them -- you can do real damage to your motorcycle by slurping up fluid and by overheating when it takes forever to get a stable reading and make adjustments. The faster you can make the adjustments, the better, and the Morgan Carbtune allows you to do this better and faster than any liquid based instrument, hands down.
 
bonanzadave said:
Makeing another house call ?.......;)
Click to expand...
Nope.
noway.gif


Don't have my passport.
shrug2.gif

























Yet. :p

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Highway_Glider said:
Good morning Adler.

The principle is sound and it should work.

I was myself thinking about building my own version.
But last fall I found this guy on craigslist delling a Motion Pro synchronizer for $40.

Brand new never used. Not even by me...Yet.

Maybe we can do both our bikes on the next dry weekend.

DP
Click to expand...

OOH yes! I don't know if I'll be ready by the next dry weekend, but that sounds wonderful! Hopefully by the time I've got my bike ready for synching I will also have the 750 ready :D
 
bwringer said:
The proper instrument (Morgan Carbtune) is worth every last penny and then some.
... and the Morgan Carbtune allows you to do this better and faster than any liquid based instrument, hands down.
Click to expand...

This is exactly why this forum is such a gold mine. I'm not terribly mechanically inclined but I do want my bike to run as close to clockwork as possible. I've just ordered a Carbtune (?65, which is around CA$100) and am looking forward to getting this done.

Thanks bwringer! :clap:
 
I don't bother with carb sticks of any kind. I do it the old fashoned way from before they were available.

I disable 3 cylinders (pull the plug wire & ground it) to provide laod. You may have to turn up the idle to keep it running. Then adjust carbs in proper order to a set RPM rotating the disabled cylinders as I rotate through the carbs. You start with the non adjustable carb to show the RPM the others need to be set at. When all provide the same RPM under the same load they're ballanced. Your just using the tach needle to do the same thing as fluid or a pointer. No buying, no fabricating. Most engines in good running order will idle on 1 cylinder when warm. It's best to warm it up first. Then put the plug wires back on and reset the main idle speed.
 
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The thought of all that raw gas washing down the cylinder walls in the non-firing cylinders makes me shudder,
but I would really be interested to see how close that is with a proper gauge.

I would not be surprised if renobruce has such a gauge. :o

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