Need some clutch help - '80 1100LT

[Guest]

My son's project bike has a clutch that won't disengage, when running the rear wheel continues to spin when the clutch lever is pulled.

Bought this as a non runner a few years go & slowly getting it going. Engine runs very strong, shifts thru all the gears while running on the center stand without using clutch. However, the clutch does not seem to have any effect.

Took the entire clutch assy apart & cleaned everthing & filed a few high spots off the basket where the fiber tabs hit, but nothing over the top. Everything looked almost new, but I didn't measure anything.

Is this issue something you guys have seen before?

 

[Guest]

OK one stupid question, I didn't re-fill the crankcase with oil yet after I buttoned up the clutch cover. I simply checked to see if the clutch worked after I put it back together (it was the same as before). Would that have any effect on the clutch engagement/disengagement?

Like I said, I didn't measure the spring length or fiber thickness, as I figured if those numbers were beyond the service limts then the clutch would be slipping, not dragging...

Everything looked good as I took it apart, no metal chips or gouges anywhere, With the clutch basket removed, the spindle turns freely in neutral, and engages when in gear.

The steels were black & sticky so I sanded them all clean, I figured whatever oil was used in the past gummed them up. Fibers all looked very good, all uniform thickness. Just soaked them over night in oil and slapped them back in - honestly they looked to be in "almost new" condition.

I could tell the clutch cover had been off before so I'm sure the clutch as been serviced before, but who knows when...

One thought I had was perhaps the springs aren't the correct ones? Maybe they're some after-market HD ones and are too long? The lever pull is quite stiff which makes me think they're not OEM springs. I think I have a set of used ones left over from when I re-built the cluth on my '81 1100E that I can compare these to. That would be an easy fix if that turns out to be the issue.

Any other suggestions or advice are welcome.

 

[Guest]

OK, compared my old OEM springs to the ones installed & found the installed ones were all almost 2mm longer. Switched them out & now I can rotate the tire (barely) while in gear with the clutch lever pulled.

Have yet to ride this thing because it's not ready yet, but it's close. Hopefully the clutch won't give me any problems.

On to the next item - rebuilding the front forks.

 

[Guest]

I wouldn't worry too much until you get some warm oil running between the plates.
I'm fairly sure you put the clutch lever on the cover right.

 

[sharpy]

Why would longer springs make it drag? Its suppose to be a clearance fit. Did the inner clutch hub spin freely and no slop when all tightened and no plates in there? Have you the right amount or fibre/steel plates and are all the steel plates facing the same way. Meaning the flat stamp side is the same on all of them. Be a good idea to measure for flatness and thickness on parts like that so you know ure just not praying it will work. Theres a reason for most things.

 

[Guest]

Be a good idea to measure for flatness and thickness on parts like that so you know ure just not praying it will work. Theres a reason for most things.

OK, still playing with this clutch a year later.. cannot get it to shift in/out of gear without lots of force on the gear shifter and only when moving - forget finding neutral. Even with the clutch lever pulled in when running & in gear the bike wants to move. I can ride the bike but clearly something is still wrong. Shifts thru the gears smoothly when not running.

I've taken the clutch apart three times now, cleaned everything, filed the grooves off the basket, and measured all the fibers & steels. All within limits, but ALL the steels are at the lower thickness limit of 1.94mm.

So my question is, would steels being at the lower end of their service thickness cause this condition? It seems to me that it would be slipping, not letting go?

As always, any input is appreciated.

thanks, mike

 

[JTGS850GL]

Only a problem if the steels or the fiber plates aren't withing spec for flatness. Are you sure you have the clutch cable adjusted correctly? There should be only a very small amount of free play in the clutch lever. I've seen some clutch levers that are warn out at the pivot and aren't capable of pulling the clutch cable enough.

 

[Guest]

To measure the flatness of the steels, I use a pane of glass as a surface plate - every set of steels I've ever measured has been warped... these are no different. Is the flatness more c

The clutch cable is adjusted well, I've had pleanty of practice with that on my other bikes

 

[Guest]

OK, just ordered new OEM steels & springs, and FBG fibers... If it doesn't work right after all that then I'll give up! Should've just went that route in the first place.

 

[gustovh]

You are no newbie to these machines, as your signature says, but something is not being put back in correctly. Do you have the aluminum spacers for the clutch spring bolts?

Knew a fellow that grenade d his clutch, installed the replacement and it made all kinds of racket. He removed and reinstalled the clutch 3 times to no avail, so he sold it to me. I pulled it apart and installed the notched washer correctly, end of problem. The point is, we can do something repeatedly, and still be doing the wrong thing to correct the problem. The washer was in the correct place, just installed wrong.

Pull the clutch and start from the beginning, verifying each part and it's location against a parts diagram. Don't mean to be condescending, and would be glad to come over and help, but I live a bit of a distance.

V

 

[Guest]

You are no newbie to these machines, as your signature says, but something is not being put back in correctly. Do you have the aluminum spacers for the clutch spring bolts?

Knew a fellow that grenade d his clutch, installed the replacement and it made all kinds of racket. He removed and reinstalled the clutch 3 times to no avail, so he sold it to me. I pulled it apart and installed the notched washer correctly, end of problem. The point is, we can do something repeatedly, and still be doing the wrong thing to correct the problem. The washer was in the correct place, just installed wrong.

Pull the clutch and start from the beginning, verifying each part and it's location against a parts diagram. Don't mean to be condescending, and would be glad to come over and help, but I live a bit of a distance.

V

Yes, I have the spring spacers in place... and, no I don't think you're being condescending, I know what you mean about overlooking details.

I have done exactly as you suggest & used the exploded view from my manual to painstakingly verify each part during re-assembly.

I have made progress however, when I first started the clutch was completely frozen and the bike was unridable… We’ll see what the outcome is when the new stuff comes in & gets installed. I’ll post back after that.

 

[Carter Turk]

The basket is slotted in the oil pump drive gear notches right?

 

[Guest]

The basket is slotted in the oil pump drive gear notches right?

yes, you only make that mistake once... learned that with my other 1100 clutch job a few years ago.

 

[Guest]

OK, just to put a fork in this thread; my clutch issues are solved .

I bought new fibers, steels, springs & that little "cushion" piece (looks like a small pencil eraser) that fits into a hole in the notched section on the backside of the basket...

Put it all back together AGAIN, new oil and filter, and all is well with the world! Shifts smooth and easy, no problem finding neutral.

Can’t really pinpoint exactly what the original problem was, & why it all works like it’s supposed to now, but I think it was most likely the result of several factors:

? Original Fibers were all within thickness limits, but all on the low end…
? Original steels were all within thickness limits, but all on the low end…
? Fibers/steels were very gummed up when I opened it up initially…
? Springs were quite stiff, not OEM…
? That little cushion piece was worn away.
? Made absolutely sure the oil pump drive gear protrusions aligned with the basket notches…

Anyway, it all works now! On to the next item – fork seals.

Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Guest]

Pic of my project 1980 GS1100LT

Pic of my project 1980 GS1100LT

The pic looks A LOT better than the bike looks...

 

[blowerbike]

the little rubber piece makes no matter....
that you solved your clutch problem.

 

[Guest]

the little rubber piece makes no matter....
that you solved your clutch problem.

Yeah, I know that, but it makes me feel better knowing it's there...

 

[blowerbike]

my post should have read...
"glad that you solved your clutch problem"
not sure how i left out the "glad" part.
new OEM steels/fibers/springs and new OEM clutch cable has fixed the problem in my experience given the basket and or inner hub isn't chopped up real bad.

 

[hannibal]

Just searching on clutch issues. These steel and plates were all within spec, but is it possible that they had worn so much that the total thickness of the clutch stack was too small?