Need stuck bolt direction...

[Guest]

OK, I know better than to just try and crank off a stuck exhaust bolt, but I've been more than patient with these particular bolts.

The #2 clyinder exhaust bolts are being VERY stubborn on my 750LX. All the others have been persuaded to release their killer grip, but the #2 bolts....

I've been dousing them with PB blaster for a couple of weeks, and unfortunately I snapped one. The remaining one was actually backing out a little at a time but now it's been stuck for a couple of days.

So my question is: when using heat (as in a plumber's propane torch) where exactly do you direct the heat? On the bolt itself, or on the alum part adjacent to the bolt??

Will I do any damage to the aluminum if I hold the flame on the metal for a while??

I've never gone down this road before so any and all advise is welcome...

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Hammered]

You would want to heat the area around the bolt not the bolt itself. Problem is, Aluminum likes to transfer hear and steel loves to receive it. Your better bet may be to use one of the "freeze" products out now. I think CRC makes one as well as some others.

 

[1978GS1000custom]

a propane torch wont get hot enough to melt the alum. you heat the area around the bolt then right after spray with penetrating oil then heat it up again and have the tool ready to try to get it out right away once the heat is removed if possable have a friend help by standing by to pass the tourch to while you try to take it out. if it is still not able to come loose, repeat the process until its does but dont push hard on it. once heated to the correct amount it will come right out. and wear safety glasses, have a few wet rags around to put over any wires or things you don't want to melt a small pail of water (just in case) and make sure theres no gas fumes anywhere at all.. luck has nothing to do with it. its all skill in the end. cliff

 

[Larry D]

I had the same issue with a valve cover bolt. I had my lovely assistant heat the area with the torch while I worked the bolt out. When I tried to do it alone, by the time I set the torch down and grabbed the vise-grips the area had cooled and couldn't turn the bolt. We heated the general area keeping the torch moving at all times.
With the help of an extra person and 20 minutes it was out.

 

[Nessism]

I always heat the bolt, not the area around. Heat will break the chemical bond which will allow the bolt to release. Once you get the bolt to move Mike, move it back and forth in both directions. Don't just keep trying to turn it out. Keep it moving and keep the thing wet with the oil. As long as it moves you usually can get it out. When it sticks fast, that's trouble.

 

[twiggy2cents]

also when you heat the bolt two things first the bolt will swell and break the rust and also try jabbing a wax candle stick in it after hot it will suck it into the threads


PS i just heat it all usually or which ever i can get to usually works

 

[crag antler]

I had then similar issue on my '83 XL600. 2 Broken exhaust studs.
Tried everything....PB Blaster, freeze stuff from Loctite,vise grips,propane torch, and just about any idea.
Easiest way to get them out................Take the head off and give it to a machine shop. $40 later and I had all 4 studs out. The 2 broken ones and 2 good ones. Replace 2 might as well replace all 4.
Truly the easiest way for me. With these old motors, you can run into dissimilar metals,http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm
setting up and almost nothing getting them out.
Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you don't
Good luck.

 

[steve murdoch]

A lot of the fellas have had success with these products.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=140631&highlight=dry+ice

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the input guys... my plan is to work on it today. I'm in no rush, so I'll take my time & see if I can get them free.

I really don't want to remove the head if I can help it - do you have to remove the engine from the frame for this??

I'll let ya'll know how the end result.

Thanks

 

[Hank.SD]

I just finished removing 4 broken exhaust bolts from my 1100. A week of soaking/pounding/heating had no effect. I ended up pulling the motor and drilling them out. I helicoiled all 8 of them and switched them over to stainless steel studs with stainless nuts.
It was a complete pain, 2 of the 4 were grade 8 bolts, harder than heck.

I have a machine shop at my disposal, so machining them out would have been easy, but I went to great pains to avoid removing the head.

As luck would have it, as soon as I had the stud repair done, I put a few miles on the bike, found a huge head gasket oil leak, and pulled the motor a second time and tore it down for a rebuild. :-\\\

 

[Zooks]

Have a look at this thread - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=140631&highlight=bolts+problem

 

[Rein]

I go about it a couple of ways:

Grab a hacksaw/dremel, and either cut a slot for a big ol' flathead, or try to make a nice little hex head.

Either that, or I get out my craftsman version of these (the CM version has smaller sizes for bolts with the head broken off:

Hammer them onto the bolt and twist away.

Last resort, take a good socket that's slightly smaller than the bolt head, (or if broken off, smaller than the bolt body) and hammer it on hard, take your ratchet and wrench it free.

 

[Zooks]

I always heat the bolt, not the area around. Heat will break the chemical bond which will allow the bolt to release. Once you get the bolt to move Mike, move it back and forth in both directions. Don't just keep trying to turn it out. Keep it moving and keep the thing wet with the oil. As long as it moves you usually can get it out. When it sticks fast, that's trouble.

Ditto. ^ ^ ^

Heat the bolt until it goes cherry red. Take the heat off and let it cool. Grab it really tight with some vise grips and as you gently try to turn it back and forth tap it gently with a small hammer. The heat expands it and as it cools it shrinks and breaks the seal. Tapping it gently and wiggling it gets all the little bits of rust moving. I've never had one I couldn't get out. Patience is the key.

 

[Baatfam]

A lot of the fellas have had success with these products.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=140631&highlight=dry+ice

Have a look at this thread - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=140631&highlight=bolts+problem

I'm one of those guys....used the CRC version and was very impressed.

$5 a can at Autozone.

 

[crag antler]

I just finished removing 4 broken exhaust bolts from my 1100. A week of soaking/pounding/heating had no effect. I ended up pulling the motor and drilling them out. I helicoiled all 8 of them and switched them over to stainless steel studs with stainless nuts.
It was a complete pain, 2 of the 4 were grade 8 bolts, harder than heck.

I have a machine shop at my disposal, so machining them out would have been easy, but I went to great pains to avoid removing the head.

As luck would have it, as soon as I had the stud repair done, I put a few miles on the bike, found a huge head gasket oil leak, and pulled the motor a second time and tore it down for a rebuild. :-\\\

Sound like my history with my recent XL600 purchase. At least the engine will be tight when we're done, right?
Nice to see another Dual sporter here

 

[crag antler]

I go about it a couple of ways:

Grab a hacksaw/dremel, and either cut a slot for a big ol' flathead, or try to make a nice little hex head.

Either that, or I get out my craftsman version of these (the CM version has smaller sizes for bolts with the head broken off:

Hammer them onto the bolt and twist away.

Last resort, take a good socket that's slightly smaller than the bolt head, (or if broken off, smaller than the bolt body) and hammer it on hard, take your ratchet and wrench it free.

Failed for me.