Oil filter cover stud removal

[80s cars or gtfo]

After removing one stud successfully that had been stripped since before I bought the bike, I find myself wanting to remove two of the other studs that have what appear to be somewhat damaged threads. That said, removing the damaged stud today took me two hours using two nuts tightened together then after that failed using vice grips. This was with the help of a propane torch.

What I want to know if it's worth the risk of breaking the studs and being unable to remove them. A damaged stud is better than none. I don't have access to a welder or a drill so I don't have two of the most powerful stud removal tools available.

My questions are these:
1. Is it worth the risk of having a stud break off where vise grips can't reach?
2. Should I go through with it, What other advice do you have regarding the removal and replacement of these studs?
3. I'm not 100%on the use of a torch in this situation. I just heated up the whole area and then let it cool before removal, is there a better way to use a torch to aid in the removal of stuck or frozen nuts, bolts and studs? Perhaps a specific area or ...?
Thank you in advance

 

[Guest]

I'd just chase the thread with the proper die and use it as is, until you have to replace it.

 

[Guest]

I agree with with gsrick, if the threads are good enough to start a die correctly just run it on to clean them up and leave it alone. For future reference, a small pipe wrench does a much better job of gripping broken bolts/studs than vise grips. Once properly set it won't slip, regardless of how hard you turn.


Mark

 

[bwringer]

These studs are made of cheddar cheese. I doubt a die is going to have much positive effect.

I've removed many of these studs with locking pliers with no trouble.

You may have issues if you are trying to use the shoddy Chinese crap currently branded "Vice Grip" -- the jaws are notoriously soft and weak. Vintage US-made Vice-Grips generally work well if they're not too beat up, and there are also some excellent locking pliers made in Taiwan sold under the Milwaukee name at Home Depot and under the "Bremen" name at Harbor Freight. (Skip the Chinese-made generics.) You need strong jaws with sharp, hard teeth that can dig in.

Also, make sure you're using locking pliers with a release lever -- the models without a release lever are mostly useless because they can't clamp nearly as hard.

You may need to heat the stud a bit to soften the thread locking compound. You don't need to get it red hot or anything silly like that.

I generally don't bother with heat for these 6mm studs; clamp HARD with a good pair of locking pliers, wiggle back and forth until the stud starts moving (make SURE you're rotating, not bending), and then clamp and turn, clamp and turn, clamp and turn until it's out. I usually get it started with a larger pair of locking pliers, then switch to a smaller pair with more clearance to finish up once it's broken loose.

 

[shunnon]

Well I removed one of the studs created a hug problem. Now I have no idea what to do.

 

[ChicagoBob]

Some of my GS bikes have had bolts in place of one or more of the oil filter cover studs. It works, but you have to take care tightening them. They're oily and easily over-torqued. I suspect that Suzuki used studs because t's better to strip a stud than to strip the threads in the crankcase.

 

[Sam 78 GS750]

Well I removed one of the studs created a hug problem. Now I have no idea what to do.View attachment 56045

At this point, you're going to have to buy, rent, or borrow a drill. I've been in this predicament. Not with filter studs, but other broken bolts and studs.
Don't bother with an ez out, you'll just potentially make the problem worse if it breaks off (which happens a lot).
Start with a small bit, keep it straight and drill through the center of the stud. Move up to a slightly larger bit, to drill a slightly larger hole.

Once the hole is big enough and the pressure's off, the stud should screw out. Either that or only the threads will be left, and it'll kind of fall apart. Go too far and you may drill into the engine threads. Depending on how far, you'll have to use a tap to either clean up the existing threads, or make new threads one size up.

Good luck.

 

[Downs]

Left handed drill bits. Same idea as above but there's a possibility that in the process of drilling the stud out it will grip it and remove it without causing any extra damage.

https://www.amazon.com/slp/left-hand-drill-bits/q3k8qjv9mbea8ys

 

[shunnon]

I tried using jb weld to fix this to no avail. Can a welding torch be used to fill in the hole so I can re-drill the stud?

 

[Guest]

I tried using jb weld to fix this to no avail. Can a welding torch be used to fill in the hole so I can re-drill the stud?

Not a torch, but a good welder with a MIG or TIG machine may be able to weld the hole up so you can drill and tap. It depends on the access there is to the bottom of the hole and if he can decently match the aluminum material of the cases.


Mark