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New head possibilities?

  • Thread starter Thread starter mpls-ugly
  • Start date Start date
first timer said:
I don't see a problem swapping cams, if your thoughts held true then all the drag racers and racer who use aftermarket cams would have snapped heads and cams. It is more important to use the orginal cam retainers from the matching head. The retainers are line bored and unique to each head.
Click to expand...
Yes but the cams drag racers use are NEW. Im not saying it will always happen, but its not something i would advise doing unless no other resort is viable. Thats not the case in this instance. The head can be removed and the offending bolt taken out by a half way competent machine shop.
 
broken exhaust bolt

broken exhaust bolt

I had the same think on my gk when I bought it. The guy before me tried to drill it out and it went off center. I used a die grinder and a chain sharpening stone in my die grinder. It took two stones but I was able to center the hole and use a thread tap to clean out threads. I was left with threads half way down because of the way they tried to drill it out. I used a longer bolt and shortened it to work. So far it has not come loose after 300 miles.
 
I’m in the process of refurbishing an 8V 1000 head because the valve to guide clearance is above the service limit on many of the valves – mostly on the exhaust side.

Machine shop quotes to change the valve guides and do a valve job put the bill in the $400 range. As an experiment of sorts, a GSR member is going to loan me his valve seat cutting tools so I can try my hand at replacing the valve guides and touching up the seats. While this is developing I recently took a flyer on a used head off ebay for $63 shipped - bike that had 26k miles on it. Fortunately, this new-used head is in pretty good shape; the guides are decent so a simple lapping job should suffice. A guy could roll the dice several times buying used cylinder heads and still not crack the range of paying a machine shop to refurb a worn one. Not advocating this approach per say but if a low mileage head is available, it’s worth taking a chance.
 
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Im not to happy about the whole mess and I think I may have a way to secure the flange without the bolt via some custom brackets and such. I dont have a lot of hope for it but if i can get it to work and dont need to pull the head at all I would be very happy. Thanks for the input to all of you. Ill let you know what happens in the end.
 
mpls-ugly said:
Im not to happy about the whole mess and I think I may have a way to secure the flange without the bolt via some custom brackets and such. I dont have a lot of hope for it but if i can get it to work and dont need to pull the head at all I would be very happy. Thanks for the input to all of you. Ill let you know what happens in the end.
Click to expand...
I can not imagine that making a custom bracket would be easier than removing the broken bolt, ezout or no.

Carbide will work, edm will work, welding will work, good HSS will probably work, cobalt will work, etc.

These have all already been covered in this thread. Is there perhaps something especially unusual about this situation? Maybe a picture would help?

As an aside, this is why everyone should have a machinist friend :D
 
No, Im good i know what's going on here. I know what my options are people keep posting so....whatever no big deal?
 
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