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New member, new rider, new bike...figuring it out!

  • Thread starter Thread starter scaylabs
  • Start date Start date
scaylabs said:
Yeah, I saw your Idle screw removal post when searching on how to remove this stuck air jet, but unfortunately we are talking about different things. I'm calling it an "air jet" because that's what the rebuild guide calls it, but it might be wrong.
Click to expand...
Nope, you got it (mostly) right. :clap:

Full terminology is "pilot air jet", and there should be no problem leaving it in there. :D

The "pilot fuel jet" is in the bottom of the carb, under the rubber plug, next to the main jet.
Together, they make a pre-set mixture that is then regulated by the previously-mentioned "idle mixture adjustment screw".


.
 
Nope, you got it (mostly) right.

Full terminology is "pilot air jet", and there should be no problem leaving it in there.

The "pilot fuel jet" is in the bottom of the carb, under the rubber plug, next to the main jet.
Together, they make a pre-set mixture that is then regulated by the previously-mentioned "idle mixture adjustment screw".
Click to expand...


Great, because it wasn't coming out ;).

I just ordered a new petcock and boots from my local dealer, Palmetto Motorsports in Miami. I'll be picking up the parts, so I don't know how much they charge for shipping, but their prices were quite good (Babbitt's was a bit better but I saved on the shipping):

13110-49100 = Intake Pipe (RH) $27 each
13120-49100 = Intake Pipe (LH) $27 each
44300-45372 = COCK ASSY, FUEL $64

I dealt with Robert, in case anyone wants to give them a shot.
 
shes a suitor. welcome. we love pictures here so would love to se more :D
 
13110-49100 = Intake Pipe (RH) $24.22 each
13120-49100 = Intake Pipe (LH) $24.22 each
44300-45372 = COCK ASSY, FUEL $55.99

Available at G&S Suzuki.

Can't see what their shipping charges are without entering credit card info first, but I have ordered from them and seem to remember that they are quite reasonable, certainly less than the $19.13 difference in parts. :-k

.
 
Miami? Is that the mystical place that never gets snow? lol

Welcome. Nice bike. Fuel in the oil is very common because BS carbs have no overflow. At least your motor innards are probably nice and shiny now.

The handlebars on your bike have been rotated wayyyy forward. Find the 4 bolts that hold down the handlebars, loosen them, and rotate the bars back until comfy. You may like the difference. You can also swap out the bars.
 
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Thank you Freshstart and Don-lo (I thought the handlebars looked funny ;)). More pictures to come as soon as she is back together.

Steve, thank you for taking the time of looking up the prices. I contacted G&S but they don't have the boots in stock and it would take an extra week shipping. Besides, their Texas to Miami flat shipping fee is $20!! :eek:
 
Well, carb #2 is in the dip. The overall condition was much worse than #1, which now seems pristine in comparison.

The kicker? the Needle Valve was MISSING!!! Considering how rusty everything looked inside, it's probably been like that for quite a while. You think that was the cause of my overflow problems? :rolleyes: /sarcasm/

Now I've also noticed that the fuel pilot jet's plug was missing on #1 (and in bad shape in #2), is it worth replacing? I'm going to have to place an order for the needle valve anyway, I might just as well order those too.
 
scaylabs said:
Now I've also noticed that the fuel pilot jet's plug was missing on #1 (and in bad shape in #2), is it worth replacing? I'm going to have to place an order for the needle valve anyway, I might just as well order those too.
Click to expand...
Yes, that rubber plug is MANDATORY, so order up a set of four. Take a look at Parts-n-More. Scroll about half-way down the page in the link, you will see needle and seat assemblies for $8, needle only for $4 and rubber plugs (a package of 5) for $7. Personally, I like to replace the seats if I replace the needles in a set of unknown carbs. Do not get the "carb rebuild kit" that is shown just above the float needles. It is incomplete in that it does not have all the o-rings that you need, you are better off sticking with the o-ring kit from cycleorings.com.

Parts-n-More is in Canada, so it will take a couple extra days to get across the border, but I have never had any problems ordering from them. They do have a $35 minimum order (which this will meet nicely) and a $8 flat-rate shipping charge.

.
 
Suzuki called the L models the "Low Slingers" in the day.

It really looks like you are off to a good start on your repairs. 1100G's have nice low RPM power when they run good, but very linesr and easy to control. There is a lot to like there.
 
Looks like your speedo drive is rotated way far forward, as well. This is the little thingy that has the cable coming from the front axle on the left side. The cable drives the speedometer, which of course tells you how fast you are going. Loosen the front axle, rotate that speedo drive until the exit points rearward, and your speedo cable will thank you....
And welcome aboard!
 
Thank you for the comments and the welcome guys.

I ended up ordering from Z1. A little more expensive than Parts-n-more but their 3-day shipping was $18, which I liked better than the $8 flat rate that would take 10-14 days to get all the way to Miami. They had faster methods available but being International the cost was prohibitive.

I got a bunch of things: Needle valves, rubber plugs, bowl gaskets, exhaust gaskets (will be dealing with that next), NGK spark plugs, a valve cover gasket, and valve shims.


While I wait for the goodies to arrive I gave my carbs a slight makeover, following RenoBruce's guidance on this thread.

My paint booth. Self Etching primer first.
IMG_20110226_180313.jpg


Black caliper paint next. I was planning on just painting the bowl and top, but the bodies look really ugly compared to the new painted surfaces (that is the ugliest of the bodies, the other 3 are a little better). Might have to go all the way and paint them too. Everything was dipped for 24hs then boiled for 30min.
IMG_20110228_181702.jpg


IMG_20110228_181741.jpg


IMG_20110228_181751.jpg
 
So... it may not be RenoBruce quality, but I think it's much better than before!

#2 on the left straight off the bike, #1 on the right after the dip.
IMG_20110223_215941.jpg


#1 after some paint and new SS fasteners.
P1030853.jpg


It's still an empty shell, waiting for gaskets and needle valves to arrive.
 
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Thank you Cliff!

Parts are here, looks like I'm gonna have a great weekend!
 
It was a busy weekend:

Carbs are finally together and looking pretty good!

P1030858.jpg

P1030864.jpg


I will do a bench sync this afternoon.

I removed the last few stuck screws holding the old boots (hitting them on the side of the head with a hammer did the trick. Love this forum!), and installed new boots with fresh o rings.

Scraped off the old sealant/gunk that was around the old petcock, inevitably along with some tank paint, so I gave the area a few coats of primer. Ready to install the brand new petcock this afternoon.

Installed new NGK B8ES spark plugs gapped to .031".

Finished the valve adjustment with the shims I got from Z1. In case anyone reads this, do not trust the numbers on the shims, measure them with a caliber. I didn't and some were off by as much as 0.05mm, which completely screwed up my game plan. Ended up with 3 valves with 0.10mm clearance, but I hear it should be OK (I hope).

I'm going to change the oil again, in case any more fuel got in it before I disconnected the failing petcock.

I might be ready to start her up again today! :dancing:
 
Success!! She started right up, albeit running a bit rough.
No more fuel leaks, no more oil leak.

I tried adjusting the idle mixture but #1 and #2 don't seem to affect the idle speed at all. Probably way out of sync from what I've been able to learn searching.

Carbtune's website is estimating 6 weeks delivery to US!!:eek::eek:
Anyone with a Carbtune in the Miami area?:D
 
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