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New member with GS450E - No filter in the airbox?

  • Thread starter Thread starter hardline_42
  • Start date Start date
The mesh I was referring to is the one in the left of your pic's, what you call the flame arrester... wasn't real clear on that.

I agree it should be very simple to make replacement parts to hold the filter in.

You will definitely need something underneath the filter otherwise the suction from the carbs will pull it down and against the mesh there.
 
(Anybody not "logged in" won't see the pictures,I notice because they are linked to an album in my profile..?-I learn something new everyday here!)

.... there's edges in the airbox that should hold it at the right slant-My pix don't show that so well but the filter arrangement is slanted high at carb end,low at the back end....They are not exactly rectangular,either...
the plastic grid/screen is the same type of plastic as the brakefluid reservoir's but not so thick ..they are a tight fit bordering on oversized. They MUST bend to fit in the box. The foam is a bit oversize .It's all as though the two grid pieces are meant to keep a tension on the foam's edges around the airbox sides.
 
I also put a request in at my local Suzuki dealer just to see what it would cost to avoid the 2-week delay.
It may not always avoid the 2-week delay (the dealers might have a minimum amount before they can order), but you might be surprised at what you find.

A few years ago, we were doing some shopping to get carb parts for my son's Venture. He had printed out a screen capture from the order page. Just for kicks, we stopped by the local Yamaha dealer to see if they might have any of the parts in stock before we ordered them. Surprisingly, he had a few. He noticed our parts list (impressed that we were ordering by part number, not description) with prices and asked to see it. He did a few calculations and asked where we got the prices. We simply replied "the Internet". He said "tell you what, how about you just order everything through me? I will match these prices and save you the shipping charges, but will have to charge state sales tax." The tax was less than the shipping, he was able to match pricing on all but one item (he split the difference between what we showed and his cost) and we had everything in about 4 days. He did not make his usual full mark-up on the parts, but he at least made something, and we got the prices we were looking for, so it was a win-win situation.

You may also get lucky and stumble upon that rare gem of a mechanic who worked on these bikes when they were new, so keep your eyes open.
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It may not always avoid the 2-week delay (the dealers might have a minimum amount before they can order), but you might be surprised at what you find.

A few years ago, we were doing some shopping to get carb parts for my son's Venture. He had printed out a screen capture from the order page. Just for kicks, we stopped by the local Yamaha dealer to see if they might have any of the parts in stock before we ordered them. Surprisingly, he had a few. He noticed our parts list (impressed that we were ordering by part number, not description) with prices and asked to see it. He did a few calculations and asked where we got the prices. We simply replied "the Internet". He said "tell you what, how about you just order everything through me? I will match these prices and save you the shipping charges, but will have to charge state sales tax." The tax was less than the shipping, he was able to match pricing on all but one item (he split the difference between what we showed and his cost) and we had everything in about 4 days. He did not make his usual full mark-up on the parts, but he at least made something, and we got the prices we were looking for, so it was a win-win situation.

You may also get lucky and stumble upon that rare gem of a mechanic who worked on these bikes when they were new, so keep your eyes open.
icon_eek.gif


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My local Suzuki dealer was very helpful. They don't have the parts in stock but can get them in one or two days. The prices were just a few dollars more than on-line vendors, but again, no shipping and no two-week wait. I'm currently trying to source the parts via eBay, but if I don't get any results soon, I'll be ordering them locally.
 
I was able to source a complete airbox from eBay with all the internals in tact, so I plan to swap out the old airbox and install the new one. While I have the airbox out, I plan on stripping and dipping the carbs and rebuilding the cam chain tensioner, since they will be accessible. Are there any other maintenance tasks I should tackle while I'm there?
 
^ What he said, and if you haven't done so already, swap the O rings on the intake boots and if they're hard and shrunken get new ones of those too.
 
Adjust the valves.
At 3k miles, I don't expect they will be out of spec, but it doesn't hurt to check. I just need a set of metric feeler gauges and a tutorial. Time to give the search function a workout.

^ What he said, and if you haven't done so already, swap the O rings on the intake boots and if they're hard and shrunken get new ones of those too.
Already planning on getting the o-ring kit (carb and intake) from Cycle O-rings and a set of new intake boots, to boot :)
 
Thought I would update this thread with a few things. I got the new airbox with all the goodies: attached metal mesh, inner filter support, filter in good condition and filter cage. I also managed to wrestle the stock airbox out. It wasn't pretty. There were no airbox outlets (the little rubber velocity stacks in the airbox) and the airbox carb flanges were severely mangled.

I took the forum's advice and decided to strip and dip the carbs as well. It's a good thing I did. When I cracked open the #1 carb, saw this beauty on the slide:



It looks as if the PO's mechanic tried to pry out the carbs with a screwdriver and gouged it up something fierce. I'm pretty sure I know the answer but, is that something that can be sanded smooth? I'm not an expert on fluid dynamics but that can't be good for the air flow. Also, the #2 carb had no spring on the adjustment screw and both needle jets looked like they had been mangled by vice grips. It looks like I'll be shopping for more parts.
 
it's not airflow up there. Just friction (and a tiny bit of surface-to-surface suction as it moves up and down) I think it will not be noticed in the running of the bike if the slides go up and down smoothly. The really important vacuum happens ABOVE the diaphragm.in the top.
Gently, locally,use a fine whetsone or fine wet/dry wrapped on a block to hone the edges smooth. If you get a new slide later, I think it's possible to remove the gas tank and the tops of the carbs and put the new one in.
 
it's not airflow up there. Just friction (and a tiny bit of surface-to-surface suction as it moves up and down) I think it will not be noticed in the running of the bike if the slides go up and down smoothly. The really important vacuum happens ABOVE the diaphragm.in the top.
Gently, locally,use a fine whetsone or fine wet/dry wrapped on a block to hone the edges smooth. If you get a new slide later, I think it's possible to remove the gas tank and the tops of the carbs and put the new one in.

I appreciate the info. I'll probably scavenge a new slide from an eBayed carb but I'll hit this one with some fine grit paper and put it on the shelf just in case.
 
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