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New rider and just bought time-capsule-perfect 77 GS550

  • Thread starter Thread starter noto.alex.j
  • Start date Start date
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noto.alex.j

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Hi all, this is my first post here. Yesterday, looking for my first bike to learn on, I found a near-perfect GS550. No blemishes, no missing parts. Previous owner had it in a storage garage for almost 40 years, took it to a dealership and had new plugs, filters, battery, oil, lines, and carb clean and tune done. Then he sold it to me. I think the only problem is an electrical issue. It started flawlessly last night, idled for 10 minutes, turned it off for 10 minutes and came back to it, and the battery acted like it was dead. I jumped it, rode for an hour in a parking lot, shut it off, and it started back up fine. Also, the gauges seem to react SUPER slowly, but that's a different issue I think.

My question is, should I circumvent possible issues and just replace the stator and R/R in one shot? Should I get CDI while I'm at it? I have very little electrical knowledge and really just want it to run as well as it looks. Obligatory bike picture attached. Thank you for any advice!

IMG_1739.jpg
 
Hi noto.alex.j and welcome.
I would suggest you hold fire on replacing anything until you get some measurements done and establish a baseline.
Find the electrical tests in Jim's Posplayr sig and find out what exactly is happening. Follow to the letter and you will get very good advice back.
Top of the electrical section is probably the quickest route to them.
 
Also if you have to jump start it with another vehicle make sure it's not running.
 
The grounding for the charging system regulator was really bad on the 550. Improve that and there is a good chance the charging system functions fine. At any rate, check and fix the ground and then go through Pos's stator checklist and see where you are at.

Oh, and please check the Newbie Mistakes list linked in my signature so you know what to look out for.

good luck and enjoy!
 
Nice looking 550. Welcome to the forum and where in Ne. are you located?
 
I'm located in Omaha, Nebraska. I read that the R/R issue has something to do with the third phase not being shunted or something along those lines, and somehow being connected to the light switch. On my bike, there is no off switch for the headlights, they are always either low or hi beam. Are you guys saying there is a simple way I can rewire it to fix Suzuki's design flaw?
 
Read the pages others have suggested. Work out your ground issue. That is the best way to troubleshoot the problem. We can't just guess at what is wrong without wasting a bunch of time and money.

If I were doing that on my own bike I'd first follow the wiring harness and disconnect, clean, and reconnect as many of the connectors as you can reach. Most people use DeOxit. Then look for frame grounds. Pull apart, clean and lube (dielectric grease is best) then reconnectreconnect.
 
Thank you, I'll try those things. Advice like "check and fix the ground" go a little over my head at this point, just because I'm learning about this bike and its issues. The only downside to having such a wealth of information available is that it can be hard to know where to start. I know it's been addressed a thousand times, I just needed some quick advice on where to begin reading.
 
Post #4 has a link ,All good stuff. Read #10 then go back to # 1.
 
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Haha yes, I did read that list, and I do fall into the category that#10 describes. Except that I do have an interest learning and not wracking up major service charges. #1 has already been accomplished though. Everything in the engine has been freshly serviced and it runs great, except for the charging issue.
 
Okay, I've been trying to dig in and do some more reading, and I was just hoping someone could confirm if I'm understanding correctly. The main issue is that not all three outputs of the stator go through the R/R, correct? So if I eliminate the output that runs through the headlight switch and then run the stator outputs through the R/R, it should stop frying the stator? If so, is there a guide on how to rewire those parts?
 
noto.alex.j said:
Okay, I've been trying to dig in and do some more reading, and I was just hoping someone could confirm if I'm understanding correctly. The main issue is that not all three outputs of the stator go through the R/R, correct? So if I eliminate the output that runs through the headlight switch and then run the stator outputs through the R/R, it should stop frying the stator? If so, is there a guide on how to rewire those parts?
Click to expand...

The reason one if the stator legs runs through the light switch is to turn off that leg when the light burns out (or rturn it off on some older bikes). On bikes with no light switch they really don't do any good. Most people plug it directly into the R/R to eliminate any weak connections and to keep the random AC from running d Arlington the handlebar switch.

Putting in a series R/R will protect a healthy stator.
 
Gotcha. I'd like to at least wire the thing correctly before doing any further work. I bought a set of spade connectors and plan to go through the process of cleaning the wiring. I'd like to be able to do the stator papers tests, but unfortunately my gauges are gummed up, evidently with old oil, so I'm going to have to clean them before I have an accurate tachometer.
 
The third circuit of the stator is wired through to the hi beam switch so it engages when the hi beam is on. This increases the charging to account for the extra current draw that the hi beam uses.

If you bypass this (not a bad idea) you are best off getting a series RR so that you are not (potentially) damaging your stator.
 
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