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New rings and valves without removing the motor?

  • Thread starter Thread starter dwarf8
  • Start date Start date
D

dwarf8

Guest
Hi all.
I was going to buy a '79 GS850 from a guy but he was really in love with it and had sunk a bundle into it without getting it fixed. He had one when he was younger and had bought this one to fix 'n' ride.

Anyway, I said I'd take a look at it.

It's leaking past both the rings and the valves.
Is there a way to lift the cylinders off without removing the motor or am I just going to have more trouble than it's worth trying it that way.

Thanks to all for any advice!!

p.s. Remeber Patti and post good thoughts to her.

p.s.s. I posted this into the wrong section.... I put it in tips 'n' tricks.
 
I've done it twice, 2 different GSs, so it's do-able...and wasn't too bad ....IMO
 
Re: New rings and valves without removing the motor?

dwarf8 said:
Hi all.
I was going to buy a '79 GS850 from a guy but he was really in love with it and had sunk a bundle into it without getting it fixed. He had one when he was younger and had bought this one to fix 'n' ride.

Anyway, I said I'd take a look at it.

It's leaking past both the rings and the valves.
Is there a way to lift the cylinders off without removing the motor or am I just going to have more trouble than it's worth trying it that way.

Thanks to all for any advice!!

p.s. Remeber Patti and post good thoughts to her.

p.s.s. I posted this into the wrong section.... I put it in tips 'n' tricks.
Click to expand...

It's no problem to do it with the engine in the frame.

Hap
 
Been there, done that, not a problem.
 
Great news!!
Anything I should be looking out for??
I'm pretty mechanical.
Rebuilt a bunch of singles, a twin and a Honda 4 cylinder... loads of cars.

I'd rather learn from others mistakes at this point in my life rather than "boldly going.... " as I did when younger.
Should I be taking pics and posting this job or is it pretty common?
 
If you don't want to split the cases, don't drop anything down the cam chain slot. Don't ask me why I say this.
 
Have four "U" 3/4" thick shaped wood blocks cut with the legs about 2" long and each leg 3/4" x 3/4" thick and the open space between them 3/4" wide.
You "drop" them over the studs for the barrels to rest on when reassembling.
That way, you will only need two hands instead of six. LOL

While you're there, replace the "O" ring seals around the center four studs.
Replace the "O" ring seals around the base of all four cylinder barrels.
I would replace head and base gaskets also, but your call.

When re-installing the camshafts and setting valve timing, install the cam chain tensioner before rotating the crank to check your setup. I did it four times before the "light" came on as to why I was off after rotating the crank.

Dont forget that little upside down bolt on the outside, front of the engine
at the cam chain tunnel. :-)

Earl

dwarf8 said:
Great news!!
Anything I should be looking out for??
Click to expand...
 
Thank you, thank you, thank you all!!

I will be creating the wooden "extra hands" and looking for the little upside down bolt..
I will make sure there is always a rag in place so anything I drop can be retrieved easily...and will keep my "pickle grabber" and magnetic pick up tool in easy reach..
I will replace all gaskets, seals and "O" rings just like a real mechanic should.
I'll take pictures as I go and you can all laugh because even with all this good advice, I'm going to do something really stupid. :oops:
 
hi guys
do u need to take the cam chain apart ? to do this job..
 
hi guys
do u need to take the cam chain apart ? to do this job..
Click to expand...

Nope. You can remove the cams without breaking the cam chain, you just have to remove the chain tensioner. Then the head can come off, then the jugs.
 
Good on ya, Gum, for rescuing that poor neglected 850!

They're great bikes with a little care.

Here's some info I've put together that might help -- much of it is specific to the GS850:

http://bwringer.com/gs

I've got a whole folder full of photos of another GS850 rebuild (from Luke). I'm working on making them into a repair series, but let me know if you want to see something specific before it's posted.

Welcome!
 
Earl, I'm having problems visualising this setup, got any pictures for us imaginatively challenged limeys?

earlfor said:
Have four "U" 3/4" thick shaped wood blocks cut with the legs about 2" long and each leg 3/4" x 3/4" thick and the open space between them 3/4" wide.
You "drop" them over the studs for the barrels to rest on when reassembling.
That way, you will only need two hands instead of six. LOL
Click to expand...
 
When you go to install the pistons into the barrels, the cylinders have to be parallel to the cases. If you have "U" shaped wooden spacers between the barrels and the case. it stays level so you can fit the pistons/rings. You'll be fitting 2,3 at one time and then 3,4 at one time. Any angle off parallel of the cylinders to the case makes it damn near impossible. Remember also, you will have to hold the cylinder head level (need two hands) fit two pistons and rings, (need four more hands). Use the blocks, you dont have enough hands. :-)

Earl


Big N Daft said:
Earl, I'm having problems visualising this setup, got any pictures for us imaginatively challenged limeys?

earlfor said:
Have four "U" 3/4" thick shaped wood blocks cut with the legs about 2" long and each leg 3/4" x 3/4" thick and the open space between them 3/4" wide.
You "drop" them over the studs for the barrels to rest on when reassembling.
That way, you will only need two hands instead of six. LOL
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
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