7
78gs750e
Guest
Just putting it out there is the sender plate he needs to replace the oil cooler plate the same from a 1000 chain drive? If so I would swap you.
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New to me GS1000G
- Thread starter JTGS850GL
- Start date
F
Flyboy
Guest
Yes it is the same thing.
Been working on the bike today. Received the master cylinder rebuild components so that got completed. The brake handle was looking rough so I stripped and painted that as well:
Started on the forks. They were so badly corroded on the outside that I had to strip them down with aircraft paint remover and clean them up. Why not ad a little polish while at it:
Actually it took a wire bushing, some sanding (1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 grit) and then a little help from mother.
I know, I know it's not stock but I really loved the look of chrome and wanted to personalize the bike a bit. Picked up the complete assembly for a real good price and the condition was better then expected. Right now it's just mocked up to see how things will fit and look.:
I like the look of the rectangular turn signals so I'll change out the rears to match. I do have a new instrument panel back plate ordered as well. Waiting on the rest of the stock components to arrive. Once they do I'll be able to finish the front end.
Forks were completely disassembled and cleaned out. Very little pitting on the fork tubes and none in the slide area. I was very pleased with that. New seals were installed and one fork is complete. The only reason the other isn't, is because I ran out of fork oil.
I'll pick some up tomorrow and finish the fork rebuild. Measured the springs and they were still in spec so I'll go with those for now.
Started to clean things up a bit. Since the valve adjustment was done I wanted to button up the top. Here's how she looks with a newly painted cover and some wire brushing/paint on the top end:
I'll keep working my way around with the paint and polish as I go.
Started on the forks. They were so badly corroded on the outside that I had to strip them down with aircraft paint remover and clean them up. Why not ad a little polish while at it:
Actually it took a wire bushing, some sanding (1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 grit) and then a little help from mother.
I know, I know it's not stock but I really loved the look of chrome and wanted to personalize the bike a bit. Picked up the complete assembly for a real good price and the condition was better then expected. Right now it's just mocked up to see how things will fit and look.:
I like the look of the rectangular turn signals so I'll change out the rears to match. I do have a new instrument panel back plate ordered as well. Waiting on the rest of the stock components to arrive. Once they do I'll be able to finish the front end.
Forks were completely disassembled and cleaned out. Very little pitting on the fork tubes and none in the slide area. I was very pleased with that. New seals were installed and one fork is complete. The only reason the other isn't, is because I ran out of fork oil.
I'll pick some up tomorrow and finish the fork rebuild. Measured the springs and they were still in spec so I'll go with those for now.Started to clean things up a bit. Since the valve adjustment was done I wanted to button up the top. Here's how she looks with a newly painted cover and some wire brushing/paint on the top end:
I'll keep working my way around with the paint and polish as I go.
Ahhggg! started checking out the electrical system and guess what.... Yep the stator is shorted to ground. Each leg measures .7 ohms and they measure the same .07 to ground so I guess I'll be in the market for a new stator and probably a new regulator as well. I did find this used one on ebay that looks to in good shape and is supposed to be tested:
Does it really matter what "brand" of stator I buy? I see prices from $80 delivered to $130. Some have no brand some have Rick's, Electrosport, Arrowhead or Procom. I plan on using the SH775BA regulator either way in order to protect the new stator. I just want a good working charging system and don't plan on a lot of accessories. Price is important.
I did find this used one on ebay that looks to in good shape and is supposed to be tested:
Does it really matter what "brand" of stator I buy? I see prices from $80 delivered to $130. Some have no brand some have Rick's, Electrosport, Arrowhead or Procom. I plan on using the SH775BA regulator either way in order to protect the new stator. I just want a good working charging system and don't plan on a lot of accessories. Price is important.
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S
SVSooke
Guest
I used this guy http://www.tpe-usa.com/
I ended up buying the one I posted a picture of. It's not used but NOS. He came down to a Buy It Now price of $30 plus shipping of $11.91 so for $41.91 I couldn't turn it down. Gasket ordered as well. Hell... It gives me the opportunity to remove the stator cover and polish it.
Now I'm on the search for a SH775 R/R. I've used these people for the correct connectors:
http://motoelectrixcom.myshopify.com/products/furukawa-connectors-for-shindengen-fh012-fh011-fh010
Since the connectors are the same for the SH775 I'll pick up the connector set for $17 unless anyone else has a line on them for less.
Now I'm on the search for a SH775 R/R. I've used these people for the correct connectors:
http://motoelectrixcom.myshopify.com/products/furukawa-connectors-for-shindengen-fh012-fh011-fh010
Since the connectors are the same for the SH775 I'll pick up the connector set for $17 unless anyone else has a line on them for less.
F
Flyboy
Guest
Nice work and good bargain hunting skills.
Keep it up and the updates coming.
Keep it up and the updates coming.
Just picked up a used SH775BA from a 2011 RZR with 1300 miles off of ebay for $40 delivered. Seller says the charging system was in "perfect working order":
Looks like I'll have a new charging system (Stator, R/R and connectors) for under $100.
Ordered this connector set as well:
Looks like I'll have a new charging system (Stator, R/R and connectors) for under $100.
Ordered this connector set as well:
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G
Guest
Guest
Well that's the charging system taken care of! Nothing like have reliability, good job on the deals that's for sure.
Working on getting the front end sorted out. Calipers are assembled and ready to mount. Found one of the front wheel bearings a little scratchy so I'm replacing both. Very surprised at how much the price can vary for the same bearings. Ordered a pair of 6302-2RS bearings off ebay for $7.97 delivered.
I looked at the tutorial on how to remove the old bearings and found it to be WAY too complex. All that I needed was a drift and a hammer and out they came with no problems at all. Just push the center spacer out of the way and tap on both sides a little at a time and out she came. The other bearing is a piece of cake once the spacer is removed. I then just used a 1/2" extension and tapped it right out. I'll simply use an appropriate sized socket to tap the new bearing in like I have for so many times in the past.
Waiting on the new Saddlemen seat cover to arrive tomorrow along with so many other pieces. I'm really multi tasking on this. I would like to get the new stator installed before I install the rebuilt carbs since it's so much easier to get to everything while they're out.
I looked at the tutorial on how to remove the old bearings and found it to be WAY too complex. All that I needed was a drift and a hammer and out they came with no problems at all. Just push the center spacer out of the way and tap on both sides a little at a time and out she came. The other bearing is a piece of cake once the spacer is removed. I then just used a 1/2" extension and tapped it right out. I'll simply use an appropriate sized socket to tap the new bearing in like I have for so many times in the past.
Waiting on the new Saddlemen seat cover to arrive tomorrow along with so many other pieces. I'm really multi tasking on this. I would like to get the new stator installed before I install the rebuilt carbs since it's so much easier to get to everything while they're out.
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G
Guest
Guest
One thing you might want to have a good look at, and maybe rebuild, is the speedo gear box. I've had enough of those seize up do some major damage, one ruined a rim. It's not really a rebuild, they come completely apart and it's basically a total clean and repack with grease. Good for another 30 yrs.
G
Guest
Guest
Yup, they can come totally apart. I've never played with one from an 1150 so I'm not sure about that bike but if they're anything like all the others they should come completely apart. Yes they can do some damage when they seize up
they can be a bit of a bugger to come apart sometime but just spray the heck out them with your favorite mixture
this little plastic piece can be stuck sometime due to grease and dirt, just soak it well and I've found the proper size needle nose fits into two of the slots very well and out she comes.
Somewhere I've got a bunch more pictures of the process, I keep meaning to make up a little tutorial of how to clean one up. Make sure you seal the rubber boot around the piston/gear properly when you put it back together.
they can be a bit of a bugger to come apart sometime but just spray the heck out them with your favorite mixture
this little plastic piece can be stuck sometime due to grease and dirt, just soak it well and I've found the proper size needle nose fits into two of the slots very well and out she comes.
Somewhere I've got a bunch more pictures of the process, I keep meaning to make up a little tutorial of how to clean one up. Make sure you seal the rubber boot around the piston/gear properly when you put it back together.
I don't recall seeing a snap ring on mine....ill have to check.
I checked mine, and it can indeed come apart. Jtgs, sorry for sidetracking your thread a bit.
Ive been following this from your consideration of the bike to now, and impressed with your progress
.
Ive been following this from your consideration of the bike to now, and impressed with your progress
.
