New to riding, first bike is 79 GS850. Will not ignite, electrical makes a buzz

[Guest]

I would love some insight, I am afraid I’m going to be asking a lot of questions. Possibly dumb ones. I bought this bike off of my friends grandfather who recently passed away. It’s my first bike riding, he had done amazing work on it. Everything felt like brand new, however a few days ago when I was out riding stopped at a light. It just turned off. Tried to start it up again and it made an electrical wizzing noise. Not sure why, luckily this bike comes with a kick starter, so I kicked on it hard and got it fired back up but the bike no longer ignites with the electrical starter. If it idles for too long it’ll also just turn off and boy is it a workout with the kick starter

 

[rphillips]

Welcome, a buzz or a wizzz, like the starter clutch is spinning, just not turning eng? starter clutch problem, and it shouldn't be hard to start with the kicker if all is right. Welcome from 30 mi. east of you.

 

[Guest]

Thank you for the reply! Well, I switch it to on and when I press on the ignition it’s more of a buzz when I think about it. Not sure what’s causing this. I’m not mechanically inclined much, but I’d love to learn

 

[Redman]

I cant imagine what whizzing any electrical action might cause, but I suspect you might be hearing the starter motor mechanically spinning but the starter clutch not engaging to turn the engine.
THe starter clutch has a roller held in place with a spring, and after the engine gets going fast enough the weight of the roller pushes the spring back. WHen stopped or going slow (starter speed) the spring keeps the roller against a shaft so the starter can turn the engine. SOmetimes dirty oil can get some gunk in there to keep the roller held back which makes the clutch not engage. Is also other failures possible, but the roller getting stuck back is most likley suspect.
Listen to it some more, and determine if what you are hearing is the starter motor spinning. Then can discuss further.

New to riding, eh?
Have you found any training classes? (around here they are usally in spring and summer, and fill up for the year real early.)

Oh, for the hub in the rear wheel, for 79 you should be okay - well, if it has been lubed. It should be lubed as often as the rear wheel is removed. Lot more to talk about for that, lots of postings about it.

 

[Redman]

And Welcome.

Picture that you posted elsewhere would be good here.



Actaually, would be best for you to post an introduction in the "GS Owners" section.

 

[Redman]

Thank you for the reply! Well, I switch it to on and when I press on the ignition it’s more of a buzz when I think about it.. . . . . . . . .

How about a rapid soft clicking . . . . ?
Maybe it is the starter solenoid clcilking-buzzing.
If you dont know what or where your starter solenoid is, take off the left side cover, open the seat. Follow the big red wire from the battery positive, that red wire goes to the starter solenoid. (other big red wire on solenoid goes to starter motor).

One reason for solenoid clicking-buzzing is a marginal weak battery.
Try charging the battery (with a small charger, 3/4amp or 1 amp or maybe 1 1/4amp - not automotive 3 amp nor 6 amp nor 10amp) for several hours (or untill charger indicates full charge, usally a green light).
Best to not jump from a car, but if you do, DONT have the car running.

ANd a marginal week battery could be because the battery is old . . . or because the charging system is not charging battery well.

You say you would like to learn mechanics.
Well, you have a 70s-80s motorcycle, you might have a need to learn about electrical system.
You have a 70s-80s Suzuki motorcycle, you probably will need to learn about electrical system.
ANd first thing to learn is that cant troubleshoot electrical problems with your bodily senses, you need a multimeter (volts, ohms).

 

[Guest]

Update: I used a multimeter to check the voltage. Not on for more than 24hrs reads 12, as soon as I turn the key it drops down to 8. When I hit start, it drops to 0. I crank shift my bike to get the engine running and then used the multimeter. It reads between 7-8. As soon as I turned on the lights it turned off immediately.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

You need to start with a new battery. Then we’ll go from there. You can’t do any useful testing with your old, tired battery. Then if you want a preview of what you’re likely in for, read the My Charging System Sorted thread linked in my signature.

“crank shift” = Bump start?

Welcome to the club.

 

[Guest]

New update: Bought a brand new 12V, chucked the old one out. Will return it to hardware store for proper handling, and I placed the new one in. Used Multimeter to check voltage levels. Reads 12.6. I turn the key and hit the electrical start button and it fires up immediately. *sigh of relief*! I look at the multimeter, it hovers around 12.12-12.6.

Took it out for a spin since it’s been a minute since I had it running like this. Felt almost night and day from riding it previously with the old battery. Everything was smooth, no more puttering at the stop light and the head lights were strong and powerful.

Now, the multimeter. Should it be reading 12.6 at all times? Or is the 12.12 reading ok. Would you say this concludes my electrical issue?

 

[Baatfam]

New update: Bought a brand new 12V, chucked the old one out. Will return it to hardware store for proper handling, and I placed the new one in. Used Multimeter to check voltage levels. Reads 12.6. I turn the key and hit the electrical start button and it fires up immediately. *sigh of relief*! I look at the multimeter, it hovers around 12.12-12.6.

Took it out for a spin since it’s been a minute since I had it running like this. Felt almost night and day from riding it previously with the old battery. Everything was smooth, no more puttering at the stop light and the head lights were strong and powerful.

Now, the multimeter. Should it be reading 12.6 at all times? Or is the 12.12 reading ok. Would you say this concludes my electrical issue?

Nope....12.12-12.6 running is pretty low...Look here: https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...Charging-System-QUICK-TEST/page2=#post1272192

 

[Nessism]

Put your multimeter across the battery terminals and then rev the engine up to 5000 rpm. You should see between 14 - 14.5 volts if the charging system is working properly.

 

[Redman]

Yah, volts dropping that much when turn on key is as symptom of weak battery.
You could have tried giving it a good charge, but, yah, most likley bad-weak battery.
Good that you got a new battery.

New update: Bought a brand new 12V, chucked the old one out. Will return it to hardware store for proper handling, and I placed the new one in. Used Multimeter to check voltage levels. Reads 12.6. I turn the key and hit the electrical start button and it fires up immediately. *sigh of relief*! I look at the multimeter, it hovers around 12.12-12.6.

Took it out for a spin since it’s been a minute since I had it running like this. Felt almost night and day from riding it previously with the old battery. Everything was smooth, no more puttering at the stop light and the head lights were strong and powerful.

Now, the multimeter. Should it be reading 12.6 at all times? Or is the 12.12 reading ok. Would you say this concludes my electrical issue?

Nope, yer not done yet.

At idle, the charging system doesnt charge much, so will see not much higher than just battery voltage.
Need to reve engine up to get much charging to see higher voltasge.
Rev up to 4 or 5 k rpm, should then see higher that battery voltage, like 13.5 or 14 or 14.5.
High 13s will charge your battery enough to keep you going and start next time, but 14 or low14s is better.

Check voltage again at higher rpms and report here.

Tell us again: voltage key off, key on (tell us if that includes head light), at idle, and at 3k rpm and 5 k rpm.