Newbie has a few questions

[chuck c]

Greetings, all!
I'm the happy new owner of a 1980 GS450L with 29,000. I wasn't even looking for a GS, I was looking for "cheap". Now that I've had it for a couple of weeks, I'm starting to get the religion- I like it! It's got scads of power for a 450. My wife and I probably max it's rated capacity yet it has no trouble at all hauling us. I'm impressed by how quiet and smooth it runs. I'm already having fantasies of a GS650G....

Fortunately, it had NOT been sitting for years so it runs pretty good once it warms up. It only needed a few things- battery, chain guard, front brake switch for inspection. I lucked out big time on finding the chain guard. Now I'm getting to really making it run right.

Questions
#1: why does the slightest bit of choke kill the engine? It starts fine if I open the throttle a bit and hold it until it gets warm.

#2: I've got the common oil leak that seems to be from the shifter shaft. Is this a DIY fix? How hard is it to replace that seal?

#3: Shifting could be smoother and it's a pain to hit neutral. What oil do you recommend and will it help with shifting?

Thanks for your help!

 

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. chuck c,

Welcome! I'm not one of the "gurus" around here, but I'll share my thoughts.

#1. Gunk in the choke circuit of the carbs? Time to clean them properly? Or maybe try some Sea Foam?

#2. Shifter Seal Replacement <<<Click for more info.

#3. When was the last time you changed your oil? What oil are you using? Perhaps your cable needs adjusting. Perhaps the clutch plates need inspection.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[davidduarte]

I've had a 1980 GS450 for several years now, and I'm finally getting around to doing some much needed work on it. A friend of mine helped me take the carbs apart and clean them out. It's not nearly as hard as you might think. It certainly helped that he has a parts cleaner, and also an air compressor so we could blow it out. It's amazing how much gunk will build up in there over 30 years. I would try using Spectro to see if that helps the shifting. Sometimes the GS bikes are a little hard to shift when they are cold; after they warm up they're usually pretty slick. Good luck with your new steed

 

[davidduarte]

oh, and BTW, I found the chain guard, and other things like a front brake switch on bikebandit.com. There are other places you can find these parts at though. If you're an AMA member you get a discount at Bike Bandit, and they have the microfiche online so you can look at exploded views of the various parts of the bike, and order what you need. Very cool. You can also get a Haynes manual for free, I don't have the exact link, but you should be able to find it in your Megawelcome.

 

[chuck c]

Thanks for the link on replacing the shifter seal, I can handle that!

Re: oil, I've only had the bike for 2 weeks and only topped it off with castrol. I want to know what you guys are using so I can change it. I will check the clutch adjustment, I didn't think of that.

As for these carbs, I don't want to tear them down just yet. They are different from what I know and would like to save that for the Fall because I want to ride it now! If I mess up or need parts there could be a long delay getting it back on the road. Other than the choke, it runs fine. Not risking it.

I did give it a Sea Foam treatment which helped clear out the Winter Crud Monsters, but the choke passages might still be blocked. I might try continued SF doses and run with the choke slightly open so a little can get through that circuit.

 

[GS ace]

Oil

Oil

I've used Castrol GTX 20w50 for as long as I can remember. I run it in all of my motorcycles, with the exception of a few non-Suzukis that have synthetics.

 

[Skateguy50]

just in case you didnt know, the biggest thing with the oil is to make sure it is NOT "energy conserving" on the little circle label. If you put some of that in I would change it out just to be safe.

 

[teddux]

Thanks for the link on replacing the shifter seal, I can handle that!

On the 425, you have to split the case i think even for the clutch push rod, 450: I have to take my clutch plate off to see...

As for these carbs, I don't want to tear them down just yet.

Try just removing the intake "plate" and see what happens, maybe your jets are finally eroded.

 

[teddux]

Welcome! I'm not one of the "gurus" around here

LMAO!
FTW!
Modesty is NOT a Sin.
ray:

 

[davidduarte]

Sea Foam is great stuff! A few years ago, I took my bike out after the winter. Previously I had always used Sta-bil to stabilize the gas. The problem I had was that I had to rev the hell out of the engine to get going from a stop, otherwise it would bog down on me. Once I was moving it was fine. I ran Techron in the tank, then tried Sea Foam. That helped some, but what really helped a lot was taking the tank off, and injecting Sea Foam directly into the carbs, and running the engine. I shut it down, pumped in some more Sea Foam, then let it sit for 3 days. It took me a while to get it started after that, something like 20 tries, but it was like a whole new bike after that. I just hope that after I get the rust out of the tank and get everything back on, it will just run *fingers crossed*

 

[teddux]

Sea Foam is great stuff! A few years ago, I took my bike out after the winter. Previously I had always used Sta-bil to stabilize the gas. The problem I had was that I had to rev the hell out of the engine to get going from a stop, otherwise it would bog down on me. Once I was moving it was fine. I ran Techron in the tank, then tried Sea Foam. That helped some, but what really helped a lot was taking the tank off, and injecting Sea Foam directly into the carbs, and running the engine. I shut it down, pumped in some more Sea Foam, then let it sit for 3 days. It took me a while to get it started after that, something like 20 tries, but it was like a whole new bike after that. I just hope that after I get the rust out of the tank and get everything back on, it will just run *fingers crossed*

Damn, you need to post more crap to move up from "Junior", FTW!!!

 

[davidduarte]

Damn, you need to post more crap to move up from "Junior", FTW!!!

How many posts do I need for that? Here's one more anyway.

 

[teddux]

How many posts do I need for that? Here's one more anyway.

I dunno, but it's a start, here, answer this 2 times:
)()&*)(*^&&*%$^&$*(_+(+_|)|+(+*()*&^&*^%%^#$$%#%)*)(*!!!

 

[chuck c]

Where is this intake plate? How would I tell is my jets are eroded? I need more info!

Try just removing the intake "plate" and see what happens, maybe your jets are finally eroded.

 

[chuck c]

Even tho it calls for 10W-40? The thicker oil doesn't affect it?

I've used Castrol GTX 20w50 for as long as I can remember. I run it in all of my motorcycles, with the exception of a few non-Suzukis that have synthetics.

 

[BassCliff]

Even tho it calls for 10W-40? The thicker oil doesn't affect it?

Hi,

Not to start another oil thread, but use a diesel engine oil, 15w40. It's the closest to motorcycle "specialty" oil but doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Rotella is a favorite brand around here but I've also used Valvoline and Pennsoil diesel engine oils. They have more zinc and other additives that are good for our engines. Synthetics are OK too.

If you change your engine oil often enough (every 1000-1500 miles) it won't make too much difference which oil you use.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[chuck c]

THAT'S handy... I think I still have a big ol' jug of exactly that oil from when I had a diesel Jetta! I wondered what I was going to do with it!

 

[chuck c]

I just got an idea... since I am timid about rebuilding my carbs and possibly rendering my machine inert for a long period, I could buy 2 from my local salvage yard and mess THEM up. Then if I put them on and they don't run, I just switch back to the originals. Even one would give me a chance to crack one open without being terrified, and it would give me some spare parts. I'll have to see what they cost.

 

[davidduarte]

do you know anyone who is more mechanically savvy with motorcycles? I was a bit leary of tearing down the carbs too, but after watching my friend do it, it's actually pretty easy. Getting the carbs off the bike is fairly easy too. Just remove the tank (after you drain it, natch), unscrew the airbox screws, undo the clamps that hold the carbs into the airbox and intake boots, loosen the throttle cable nut, then push the airbox back and pull the carbs out. I found it easier to disconnect the throttle cable from the carbs after I removed them from the bike. You should replace the intake and airbox boots, and replace the intake boot screws with allen head cap screws. You can get stainless screws and the appropriate O-rings for your carbs from one of the links in your Megawelcome.

 

[teddux]

I just got an idea... since I am timid about rebuilding my carbs and possibly rendering my machine inert for a long period, I could buy 2 from my local salvage yard and mess THEM up. Then if I put them on and they don't run, I just switch back to the originals. Even one would give me a chance to crack one open without being terrified, and it would give me some spare parts. I'll have to see what they cost.

Just DO IT!
-NiKe