• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

No crank: intermittent, can't find a fault.

  • Thread starter Thread starter ThrottleBack
  • Start date Start date
Agemax said:
not if you know which ground is associated with which circuit!
Click to expand...

That ends up being the problem, circuits end up grounding in ways not expected and causing faults that show up on other circuits. Ironically, most DIYer's will "fix" this by putting in MORE grounds. Also, ground loops and stray electrons will tend to cause corrosion problems - most notably on marine vessels or vehicles that stay close to salt water.

For the OP: connect a jump lead between the battery negative and the solenoid body, if your start button works flawlessly then you know you have a bad ground between the solenoid body and the battery.
 
ChicagoRob said:
I'm not familiar with the TX's, but do they have a clutch switch? If it does, you may want to jump it to reduce your variables.

I had the same problem and it turned out to be a tiny bit of corrosion on the starter button. Sounds like you've already licked that one, though.

Reading over your description it really sounds like kill switch to me. I know, it tested well, but the problem is intermittent isn't it? If you only have symptoms 20% of the time a random test of a component will only fail 20% of the time. An open kill switch will prevent the starter from cranking and prevent it from firing. A bad starter switch will only prevent it from turning over so your jumped solenoid test should have worked.

When you turn the key the idiot lights come on so you know that the ignition circuit is working. The kill switch isn't like that. When you turn it on nothing obvious happens. I happen to have a coil relay mod on mine so I hear an audible relay click when I hit the switch so I know that the circuit is closed. Perhaps you should do something similar by temporarily adding a led to that circuit (at the coil connection, perhaps) so when it's closed, you have a light to check.

Now if you verified that the kill switch circuit was closed when you jumped the contacts on the solenoid, I got nothing.

Rob
Click to expand...

Yes it's intermittent but i'm testing the kill switch while the issue is presenting and the kill passes, so it's not the issue.

Killer2600 said:
That ends up being the problem, circuits end up grounding in ways not expected and causing faults that show up on other circuits. Ironically, most DIYer's will "fix" this by putting in MORE grounds. Also, ground loops and stray electrons will tend to cause corrosion problems - most notably on marine vessels or vehicles that stay close to salt water.

For the OP: connect a jump lead between the battery negative and the solenoid body, if your start button works flawlessly then you know you have a bad ground between the solenoid body and the battery.
Click to expand...

Can't believe I forgot to try that
 
Killer2600 said:
That ends up being the problem, circuits end up grounding in ways not expected and causing faults that show up on other circuits. Ironically, most DIYer's will "fix" this by putting in MORE grounds. Also, ground loops and stray electrons will tend to cause corrosion problems - most notably on marine vessels or vehicles that stay close to salt water.

For the OP: connect a jump lead between the battery negative and the solenoid body, if your start button works flawlessly then you know you have a bad ground between the solenoid body and the battery.
Click to expand...

if a circuit needs a ground then it doesn't matter where it is grounded, as ultimately they are all connected to each other.......
 
Hoping today to tackle running these extra grounds and swapping out connectors. Got to go through my mess of a shop first and find my labels.
 
ThrottleBack said:
Can't believe I forgot to try that
Click to expand...

If that's the problem, why didn't it start when you jumped the solenoid? If you have juice to the coils and that engine turns over, it should fire no matter what state the connections to the solenoid are in.
 
It sounds more to me like the plug on the ignition switch could be the culprit, with random ignition, meaning will turn over but not start.
 
ChicagoRob said:
If that's the problem, why didn't it start when you jumped the solenoid? If you have juice to the coils and that engine turns over, it should fire no matter what state the connections to the solenoid are in.
Click to expand...

you can jump the solenoid and the motor will spin over with the ignition switch off, but it wont fire
 
ChicagoRob said:
If that's the problem, why didn't it start when you jumped the solenoid? If you have juice to the coils and that engine turns over, it should fire no matter what state the connections to the solenoid are in.
Click to expand...

NEver said that was the issue but it would indicate a ground issue with the panel.

CAme out today turned it on and hit start. Bike cranks now (magic!) But wont start. It just cranks and every ten seconds or so lets off a backfire like a gunshot.
 
The electrical system is getting redone. It has always ran great there must be something electrical screwing it all up
 
Lmfao original issue solved. The panel is loose i can sit here all day and recreate the issue then fix it. Ok im off to rewire the whole damn thing
 
Yea I have some brains guys geez LOL. I'm almost done. I added the grounds, checked all the wires from engine back, swapped out all connectors in that area and did same in headlight bucket. Hoping to fire it up soon but unlikely I will finish today
 
I finished my wiring all up but no time today to put the battery back in so i just hooked the battery up to my float charger and called it a night
 
Bike wiring done. Noticed I had her set to prime...dammit. Had a very slight gas smell to the oil, so I just went ahead and changed it after letting the plug, filter, and spark plugs stay off a few hours. She fired right up, idle is the same as ever but shes fighting to come up from idle. Easing it to about 2000 and flooring it gets me to a "wall" at about 5k so something is amiss. After some reading i'm sure the carbs are coming off. After shutting it down I get smoke from the RH tail pipe for about three minutes, not sure if i should be concerned there.

I took video, will post it later
 
Sounds like it is too rich. The smoke confirms it. Time for a complete, quality carb rebuild.
Congrats on the wiring success.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top