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No power to rear wheel. Not the hub splines. HELP

  • Thread starter Thread starter jchaplick21
  • Start date Start date
J

jchaplick21

Guest
Hi, I have a 1981 gs650gl and I can't get power to the rear wheel. I checked the rear hub splines and they are fine. At first I thought it was the clutch and I replaced it. It was very shot so I thought that would fix it but it didn't. The issue seems to be before the drive shaft. I'm thinking worst case scenario, the transmission but possibly the secondary drive gears.

Does se anyone have any way to walk me through some ideas on how to diagnose the issue? I have the clymer book, and I'm getting fairly good at fixing stuff. I'm really bummed out that I can't get my bike to work.

All help who led be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Exactly HOW did you "check the splines"? :-k

If all you did was pull the rear wheel and take a look, pull the wheel again and take another look.

When the splines wear, they don't wear across the entire length of the 'teeth'. There is about 1/8" (2-3mm) of pristine tooth that is left untouched, and that is what you see. If you look behind that, you may see ... nothing. There is a chance that the teeth are completely gone, with just that little edge visible.

.
 
I'll second the second look at the final drive spline on the wheel. It'll fool ya if you've never had a good look at a bad one. Even worse, no one here will believe it's good until you get it off the wheel and show us a pic.
 
I believe to have same problem driving along then clunk very hard to shift gears but in any gear my rear tire on center stand. tire does not move if I manually turn rear tire i can feel the shaft at the engine turning. maybe the two of us can figure this out.
 
wallsofsound said:
I believe to have same problem driving along then clunk very hard to shift gears but in any gear my rear tire on center stand. tire does not move if I manually turn rear tire i can feel the shaft at the engine turning. maybe the two of us can figure this out.
Click to expand...


What bike do you have?
 
Dogma said:
I'll second the second look at the final drive spline on the wheel. It'll fool ya if you've never had a good look at a bad one. Even worse, no one here will believe it's good until you get it off the wheel and show us a pic.
Click to expand...

I checked the back section of the hub splines and they were intact. I even have a replacement ready to go in if it turns out to be them, but I don't think it is. Along with checking them physically, there is no disconnect between my rear wheel and the drive shaft. If I'm on the center stand the wheel will spine and I can stop it, but it stops the drive shaft as well. Stop it with my hands or a foot or the rear brake I mean.
 
Even with the splines "gone", there is enough friction to do what you describe.

Put a little bit of strain on there, like trying to drive the bike, the splines will slip.

.
 
Steve said:
Even with the splines "gone", there is enough friction to do what you describe.

Put a little bit of strain on there, like trying to drive the bike, the splines will slip.

.
Click to expand...

I have no problem pulling the back wheel and posting a picture, but the issue is that the slip is BEFORE the u joint on the drive shaft. When it's in gear there is a pulse like feeling that you can feel on the drive shaft (not spinning) and in the bike.
 
Its not likely there is a problem with the transmission. It could be in the secondary gears, but I'd still be suspicious of the clutch. I know I've put mine together before swearing it was all good, only to have had something not 100% correct show up after pulling it apart again. If you want to get to the secondary gear you can pull the chunk (on an 1100 at least) by removing the rear tire and swing arm; loosening the case bolts in the region of the chunk; removing most of the motor mount bolts, getting the rear of the engine to tilt up a hair, removing the 4 mounting bolts on the chunk and CAREFULLY extracting that piece. Don't pry too much on the housing to get it out. You could inspect what you have from there and report back.
 
Do you have anywhere I can find a break down of these steps? I cant seem to find them anywhere in my manual or online. I would really love to not take my entire engine out
 
Charlie G said:
Try this link for a manual.... http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

I always bought mine on ebay. $20.00 seems to be a good price as i remember. I prefer the Suzuki shop manuals in a 3 ring binder. good luck.

cg
Click to expand...

There isnt a shop manual for the GS650 on that site. I also have the Clymer manual. The problem Im having is that to check the secondary drive gears, many people have referenced (throughout these forums) going in through the drive shaft exit. Usually involves removing the swing arm, but after that Im not sure. In the manual I have it only goes through breaking down the entire transmission and I am not too comfortable doing that with my current skill set. I
m 23 and this bike was purchased as a project to learn how to be more mechanically inclined. Im very willing to try, I just would like to get more familiar with it before I bite off something more than I can chew.
 
jchaplick21 said:
Do you have anywhere I can find a break down of these steps? I cant seem to find them anywhere in my manual or online. I would really love to not take my entire engine out
Click to expand...

If you feel sure that rear splines aren't the problem, and the u-joint seems ok, then I'm also suspicious of clutch. Maybe previous owner mucked it up- left out a plate. Pull the right side cover off ( you'll need a impact driver with decent bit) and go exploring. The bevel gears seem an unlikely candidate, but the output from trans to them thru shock mecsnism might be
 

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I can completely understand your position as I have an 1100g with a quite simular problem. I plan on checking the clutch first and if it's not that I will have to make the decision to check the secondary drive or the tranny next. I, like you don't want to pull the engine and break the cases. If you don't have much money it it, you may weigh parting it and finding another one. These bikes can be found for pretty cheap if you take your time looking and are patient. No manual will give you simple step by step how to.

cg
 
I replaced all the clutch plates and the springs this weekend. I didnt remove the basket, or the complete clutch, just replaced everything, both drive and driven according to the manual, along with the springs and the clutch cable. Is there anything you could think of that would cause this problem other than what I replaced?
 
When you replaced clutch plates, probably would have been a good idea to pull basket and make sure all parts are still there behind basket, cuz you said this 10 days ago...

"Now i put my head down by the engine when I put the bike in first and I can hear a knocking or clatter when it's in gear.not sure if that changes anything. "

When basket attempts to turn trans input shaft in gear, it gets loaded- something has to be out of whack. Try putting socket on basket nut and rocking it. Might be able to borrow right socket from outboard motor shop- props have nuts about this size.
 
Both the inner and outer basket seem to be spinning correctly. I didn't have the proper tools to take the basket apart, but I did do the recommended inspection s. There was no play I could detect in either inner or outer basket. The place where the sound I mentioned comes from is on the left side of the bike, behind the drive shaft. I'm not sure if that helps. Another thing I noticed was that when I had the bike on the center stand, I could rotate the wheel when it was in gear, but it had am interesting rhythm, I don't know the word to use, about two thirds of the rotation was easy and then it would get more difficultfor a third turn then get easier all the sudden.

I really appreciate all the help, I'm new to this, so any info is appreciated. Switching the clutch was the most in depth mechinical thing I've done to date, so that should give a little insight into my experience.

Thanks again,

John
 
tom203 said:
When you replaced clutch plates, probably would have been a good idea to pull basket and make sure all parts are still there behind basket, cuz you said this 10 days ago...

"Now i put my head down by the engine when I put the bike in first and I can hear a knocking or clatter when it's in gear.not sure if that changes anything. "

When basket attempts to turn trans input shaft in gear, it gets loaded- something has to be out of whack. Try putting socket on basket nut and rocking it. Might be able to borrow right socket from outboard motor shop- props have nuts about this size.
Click to expand...

Maybe you are right. It can still shift without using the clutch.
 
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