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no spark - gpz600r 1985

It's the design of the 600.
My gs even though old was established design.
Not perfect but it worked.
My kwak 750 again sort of the last of the big
air cooled 4's and good design.

The 600r was the first of its line and suffers
Terrible dead end designs.

But you are right. The fix will be as simple as can be.

All I k ow for next Europe trip the gs is com I g
With me....
 
I managed to strip the switch.
I've cleaned all the connections.

I will try it on the bike tomorrow.
The Killswitch checked out ok using a multimeter.
The off on switch however when measuring ohms there was no change flicking the switch.
 
It could be a wire broken internally.
As for ease to work on, taking body panels off is the huge PITA for working on sport bikes.
After that I've found many improvements in the oil cooled GSX-R family of bikes. One big improvement is much better gaskets.
 
Success:

The bike now runs.

- removal / dismantle of switch and clean with dremel wire brush. Cleaned connections.

- made up new ht leads. Bench tested with caps. All ok.

- coils bench test ok.

- cleaned pickup connector box. Poor connection.

- all old parts , starter solenoid etc and fired first time.

Only issue flat bike battery.

Bike runs from bike tank so no issues with dirt in petrol.

Test on drive tomorrow.

But job done. Something that looked like ecu, starter solenoid .... was the damned switch.
It was as you say ! Simple in the end !
What a bike to work on ....

Thanks as always for help !
 
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That is great!!!
Went through a tough electrical problem with my GS1100G a couple summers ago, cutting out after a few miles. Bought new R/R and Stator because those tested bad, and I bought a used igniter box in frustration.
Turned out it was a bad coil that worked good for a few miles until warm, then cut out. Had spare coils on the shelf from years ago and put those on.
Took a month to track that issue down.
 
I didn't see that you removed and cleaned the ground bolt from battery (-) to frame.
That little detail cost me 2 pair of ignitor boxes on a 84 Shadow 600 (@ $$$ a pair ). Mine was oxidized with a fine white powder. Clean and coat with copper-based anti-seize, put 500 miles on it after.
 
It is the maddest of things that cause these issues.
I did not check the earth from the battery as you say.
My reason was I couldn't get to it .... the bike is a horror
to work on. I was lucky .

One thing to note was that it makes no difference
If clutch pulled in or side stand down.
They do have switches (how you test a switch with three wires coming
OUT is beyond me )
I don't recall ever having a problem starting with any combination .
So they basically make no difference.
 
I saw this on your other posting, and was thinking of the GS circuits.
My first thought is that maybe you have only one problem that is causing both the not-turnover and the no-voltage-at-coils symptoms.
Or, maybe is two problems, one causing the not-turn-over, and another problem that is causing the no-voltage-at-coils.


ukjules said:
....
....
Starter button : voltage to it bit not coming out when
Button pressed. Not possible to strip switch .
....
Click to expand...

Well, that is most likley the cause of your not-turn-over problem. (And maybe your solenoid is okay.)
But that would likley not cause your no-power-at-the-coils (but I do not know specifics of the your bike).

So try to fix the starter button, and/or jumper past the starter button somehow, looks like the two black wires on your schematic, and then see if solenoid pulls in and tried to turn over.

ukjules said:
....
....

Clutch switch- no voltage getting to it.
....
Click to expand...
Looking at your schematic (bad scan, but can figure out some if zoom in)....ew, different than GS.....

The clutch switch has 3 wires: one wire is the ground (blk/wht), other wire is involved with the netural swtich and netural light (lt grn?) and other wire (wht/grn?) comes from the "junction box" and the schematic give no idea what is connected inside that "junction box", maybe some relays (I suspect is really a junction box, maybe some relays, and the fuse panel since I dont see a fuse panel anywhere else on the schematic).

And I see that when the clutch lever is "in" the swtich should connect the ground wire (blk/wht) to the wht/grn(?) wire.... and when the clutch is "out" the swtich should connect the wht/grn(?) to the grn(?) wire. You could disconnect the connector and test the swtich for that functionality with continuity tester to know if the clutch swtich is functioning as it should. (kinda like you did with the sidestand swtich)

And maybe there isnt suppose to be power to the clutch swtich, I dont know, since dont know about the "junction box". So you saying "no power to the clutch switch" maybe okay.


I make these statements just based on what I see on schematic.


Other related thought:

Do you get the Netural light when is in netural.....?

Maybe problem with the netural switch could cause both the not-turn-over AND the no-power-to-the coils symptoms.



>>>later note:
Would benefit from experience/knowledge with that brand/model.
I know on some brands (like my BMW) the logic that cuts out the ignition is: "NOT in netural AND sidestand NOT up" (both at same time).
Another way to say it more generally is if "sidestand down and put in gear", that cuts out the ignition. So a problem with the gear/netural switch and you are dead on side of the road.
 
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Oh.. now see your post about fixing the starter button....okay, Good.

Congrats.
 
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