noob gas smell

[kerrfunk]

Hiya. First time rider/owner. 82 GS550L, 14,000 miles.
here's my introduction

Since I got a helmet this week I have been able to get my first few miles on my bike.

Yesterday I did a few things around town, nothing big, maybe 7 miles total.

After leaving my bike in the garage for a while, the garage (and then the house) started to smell like gas. Hm.

When I pulled the bike out this morning, it left about a dozen silver-dollar sized drops of gas between the garage and the driveway. There's no puddling under where it was parked, it just dripped a bit when I rolled it out. I rode for half an hour this morning and parked in the driveway, and haven't seen any more gas.

I know nothing about engines, so if you have advice or questions, please be simple and patient

 

[trippivot]

keep riding it and don't use ethanol gas

the float needle and seat do re-seal after the residue from sitting a long time is washed away from detergents in the non ethanol fuel... ride it get on the freeway run 2 tank fulls all the way through it.. you'll be much happier and the bike will too.

if it does not go away and gets worse you will be replacing the float needles and possibly seats. K&L supply.. 25 $ a carb total rebuild kits approx.

 

[kerrfunk]

I took a look at the oil window and noticed this tube down near the footrest... should it be connected to something? It's gassy...

and trip, I understood about a quarter of what you said.

 

[Dave8338]

Vent tube for the carbs, there should be two of them. It sounds as though your floats are not shutting off tightly. Is your petcock in the RUN position and not on PRI? Any gas smell in the oil? Bowl gaskets leaking?

 

[kerrfunk]

Vent tube for the carbs, there should be two of them. It sounds as though your floats are not shutting off tightly. Is your petcock in the RUN position and not on PRI? Any gas smell in the oil? Bowl gaskets leaking?

I did find a second vent tube next to it. But it was from the first one that I saw a gassy drop. Petcock is in ON position (it's on the left side, up near the tank, right? What does that do, anyway?)

To check if there's gas smell in the oil do I remove the oil cap?

I have no idea how to know if the bowl gaskets are leaking.


I did have a few puffs of white/grey smoke coming out the left exhaust when I started it up this morning... Does that matter?

 

[beergood]

Depending on how mechanically adept you are, you might want to read one of the carb rebuild series on the main page. It should give you an idea of the components in your carbs, and how they work together (even if they don't have your exact model).

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

Also, do some searching on how a petcock works.

These two should help you chase down most gas leaks.

Of course, as Trippivot mentioned, many gas leaks are temporary and self solving, especially if the bike has sat for a while.

 

[spyug]

If the bike has sat for any length of time you may have problems with the fuel supply and carbs as mentioned.

These bikes have vacuum controlled petcocks that are designed to only flow gas when the engine runs or the petcock lever is switched to prime. After time they don't work corrrectly and fuel can flow even when the bike is off and parked. Gas will run into the carbs.

In the carbs is a special valve and seat that is activated by the fuel level in the bowl raising a float. This valve is supposed to stop fuel from entering the the carb needles, jets and passages when the bike is not running. Crap in the fuel and breakdown of fuel to sludge can stop this valve from properly sealing and the fuel can flow on.

Fuel can run out of those overflow vents but worse can run through the carb and drip into the cylinders. It can run past the piston rings and down into the crankcase oil. This is not good as fuel and oil mixed is corrosive and will eat into the bearing surfaces ultimately shortening their life and possible the life of your engine.

If you pull off the oil filler cap and smell gas you likely have gas in the mixture and you should change your oil before running the engine. You will also need to address this leaking problem as it will continue. You may need to either rebuild or replace the petcock and very likely clean and rebuild the carbs. As mentioned, you may need to replace the float valve assemblies.

This is all very common stuff and happens on all UJMs at some time.

Plan on doing the repairs over the winter. Get yourself a manual or see if there is one on Mr. BassCliff's website. Read up on the carb rebuild series and check with ZL1 or Bikebandit or the like for rebuild kits and possibly a new petcock.

Ask all the questions you want. We're here to help.

Nice ride and to make sure you enjoy it for along time to come a) take the courses b) get the gear c) read all you can on safe riding ( I strongly recommend the Proficient Motorcycling series from David L Hough 2 books available from major book stores).

Cheers,
Spyug

 

[Dave8338]

What he said...

What he said...

Spyug: Thanks for the detailed post. I'm at work and trying to do six things at the same time. :-$

 

[kerrfunk]

Yes, thanks for the detailed post (and for the carb repair link too!)

The oil looks and smells normal. There's fresh gas in the tank.

When I move that carb vent I get a drop of gas. Can I ride with that vent pointed up?

I do have a Haynes Suzuki Owners Workshop Manual, but it's way over my head.

I will be taking Pennsylvania's DOT Motorcycle Safety class in the spring.

Proficient Motorcycling, huh? I'll take a look.


I've put all of 25 miles on this bike and I love it. It's like kissing for the first time.

Thanks for the tips.

 

[shadowfist]

I've put all of 25 miles on this bike and I love it. It's like kissing for the first time.

isn't it? i rode for about 5 days before I stranded my bike at a friends house and getting it running so i can ride again is ALL I CAN THINK ABOUT!
definitely like kissing for the first time!

 

[beergood]

When I move that carb vent I get a drop of gas. Can I ride with that vent pointed up?

As long as the end of the vent is lower than the start, you are going to get gas leaking out. And if it is higher than its start, you are most likely going to get gas leaking somewhere a whole lot less cool. Part of those vents purpose is so that gas doesn't leak out onto your engine block. It's a case of "Well, better on the pavement than on the bike, but you really need to fix it".

One possible quick thing to try: pinch off the fuel line going from your tank to your carbs. Use needle nose lock pliers, a hose clamp or whatever you can boyscout. Be carefull not to damage the hose (another one can cost you darn near $4). If that stops the drip, then it is probably the petcock.

However, since only one hose seems to be leaking, I would wager that the float in that carb doesn't seat properly.

**Edit: Also, you can turn your petcock to Prime (Pri). If you have a bad float, you will probably get gas wizzing out of that hose. Remember, a bad float doesn't always mean a major repair/rebuild, often just cleaning out the bowl will clear the float valve.

*I just read your intro thread, if you are having float problems that could be at least a partial cause to your rough idle/start problem. Too much fuel is almost as much a problem as not enough.

Anyway, it's a nice looking bike. Something like this seems more daunting than it really is, don't get discouraged and take your time. Also, find a friend with a good set of tools and a healthy appetite for beer.

 

[kerrfunk]

Thanks, beer. I will be talking to a few friends in the near future. We'll see if any of them have the right tools.

To check the float would require taking the carb thing out and dismantling it, right?

 

[Dave8338]

Thanks, beer. I will be talking to a few friends in the near future. We'll see if any of them have the right tools.

To check the float would require taking the carb thing out and dismantling it, right?

....um, yes. You may want to seek someone with a few skills in that area to at least give you a guided hand. Just a thought. :-k

 

[beergood]

Thanks, beer. I will be talking to a few friends in the near future. We'll see if any of them have the right tools.

To check the float would require taking the carb thing out and dismantling it, right?

To do the simple petcock check, you wouldn't need to remove the carbs. But to do just about any carb maintenance short of adjusting the mix/idle you are going to have to take them carbs off.

It's nothing to be too intimidated about. It doesn't require a bunch of special tools, but it does require a methodical approach and an attention to detail. And believe me, if you intend to own one of these bikes for very long, you are going to take the carbs off/apart a couple times. It just goes with the territory. Once you've done it a couple times, you'll be surprised at the speed which you will be able to do it, and it is a good way to gain confidence in your mechanical skills and grow more familiar with your bike.

 

[kerrfunk]

someone else suggested seafoam might help... does that go into the gas tank?

 

[kerrfunk]

So the PO rode about 200 miles in 2008 (total).

I've put about 75 miles on this week, and put some SeaFoam in before a ride today... seems to me it's running better, and the smell of gas is much less, and the vent tube looks better.

I still plan to help someone do my carbs this winter.

 

[kerrfunk]

Okay ignore the previous post. Optimism at its finest. Last night I decided to park outside (with cover) to keep the garage and house from smelling like gas.

Though the idea may be unthinkable to some, I think I need to take it somewhere and have a shop fix it (plan A), unless I can find someone local who has the skills, tools, availability, and interest in teaching me (plan B).

Plan A: I know a shop or two locally that are recommended. What can I expect to pay for service? Based on what I've said, do all four carbs need rebuilt, does just one need adjusted? Something in between? What kind of time are we looking at? An hour, a day, a week?

Plan B: my zipcode is 19475, I'm in the Philly burbs. I can ride to your place if you're under 50 miles...

 

[beergood]

An experienced mechanic should be able to do the job in under a couple hours. I know that when my bike was still pretty close to stock I could get the carbs off, tinkered with and back on and everything else assembled in about an hour and a half. It is annoying work, but not difficult. So I Would hope it wouldn't cost you more than a few hundred bucks max, but this is all guesswork.

I have heard a few horror stories of shops asking for a sizable deposit for older Japanese bikes like ours, just to ensure that we will come back and pick them up (seeing as how there are so many of them, and they aren't all that expensive).

 

[kerrfunk]

I talked to a guy today. His guess (sight unseen) is that parts would be maybe $80, if all four carbs need rebuilt, and labor is about $280. He named another possible issue (the petcock) that could run another $100, so his TOP estimate was $460. Couple days so he can get the parts.

In the meanwhile, I shut the petcock off and put the bike back in the garage.

 

[beergood]

With parts that honestly sounds pretty fair. I strongly suspect that completely rebuilding them is overkill, but not a bad idea. It will be one less thing to worry about down the road. And if carbs aren't done correctly they can be a constant headache.