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Norwegian 1979 GS500E restoration.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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Get those brake lines changed! They're 35+ years overdue. You'll notice the difference.
 
If those are the original brake lines, then ditch them pronto and get something decent on there.
I see "30,79" on one of them - not sure if that means Week 30, 1979 or not. Well past their renewal date anyway.
If the lever is still spongy after renewing the lines and everything is properly bled, then attend to the master cylinder. If there's too much travel the m/cyl is likely a bit small for the calipers. There's also the problem of lost motion if the calipers have excessive wear, play or float in them - that severely affects the feel of the lever, and in turn, your safety.
 
Not much being done. Barely driven it this year. Headlight and rearlight died when I drove it one time and i just put the bike away. I think i need to do a proper restoration on it and tear it all apart into bits and pieces. It deserves it i reckon.
 
Hmmm that did not work…. Been such a long time since i posted here i forgot how to post pictures via Flickr
 
Did a some work on the gas tank, got rid of rust, brackets behind the Suzuki logo is gone as it was rusty behind it. Sanded down and did the whole nine yards. Put the new decor on it. Not sprayed on a clear coat yet as I need to do same thing with sidecovers and ducktail. Looking forward to get it all done and clearcoat the parts.
 
it brakes good. However the frontbrakes are soft to squeeze. Wondering if either the brake lines are to old and give in or the brake cylinder might be bad.

I agree with Grimly re: Master cylinder bore diameter. Can't see the MC in the pic to see if it's the original GS or not. It's crucial that the MC bore matches the one that was used with the calipers on the donor bike. The ratio of MC piston area and caliper piston area is what determines the leverage the brake lever exerts on the brake pads. Too small an MC will give excessive travel and easy lock ups. Too big gives less travel and less force multiplication.

Also if the calipers have been rebuilt with new seals, the seals should be lubed with brake fluid or the lube that comes with the seal kit. If the seal sticks to the piston it won't self-adjust for pad wear by slipping through the seal and thus the piston retracts too far from the disc when the lever is released. Then all the initial lever travel is used up closing the gap when you grab the brakes. I learnt this after bleeding about a liter of brake fluid through my front brakes trying to flush out the non-existent air bubbles that MUST be the cause of my spongy brake lever.
 
I agree with Grimly re: Master cylinder bore diameter. Can't see the MC in the pic to see if it's the original GS or not. It's crucial that the MC bore matches the one that was used with the calipers on the donor bike. The ratio of MC piston area and caliper piston area is what determines the leverage the brake lever exerts on the brake pads. Too small an MC will give excessive travel and easy lock ups. Too big gives less travel and less force multiplication.

Also if the calipers have been rebuilt with new seals, the seals should be lubed with brake fluid or the lube that comes with the seal kit. If the seal sticks to the piston it won't self-adjust for pad wear by slipping through the seal and thus the piston retracts too far from the disc when the lever is released. Then all the initial lever travel is used up closing the gap when you grab the brakes. I learnt this after bleeding about a liter of brake fluid through my front brakes trying to flush out the non-existent air bubbles that MUST be the cause of my spongy brake lever.
thanks for info. I will be using the original front discs again. And buy some new brakehoses too.
 
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