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oem parts versus aftermarket

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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Guest

Guest
Browsing through various sections of the forums. Noticed that in some cases oem parts recommended (ie. brake pistons rubber parts, clutch springs) but in other cases aftermarket seem to be fine. Is there a place that summarizes this rather than sorting through the different sections?

If not could we make one?
 
Oem parts, mhhh, some time ago I need 2 bearings for a New Holland combine harvested, made in Belgium and a very sound machine, a fair bit of work getting at them so I'd definitely pay more and get genuine from the New Holland dealer, one was made in China the other in Poland .New Holland also source from India.
Recently bought an angle grinder, Bosch and typically German,I'm afraid not, just noticed today made in Russia.
 
Yes, these companies go to great lengths to find the cheapest supplier- I gave up fighting this issue years ago. Most USA manufacturing capability has been lost to Asian countries and it won't be easy to restore it. Apparently we can rely on selling real estate and classic cars to each other rather than actually making stuff.
 
Back to the orignial question:

I don't think there is any one area that summarizes when to use OEM and when aftermarket is OK.

Thanks for volunteering for the project.
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I've been buying small parts for my recently acquired GS1000G lately. I use Robinsons Foundry in Kent for genuine parts and I've found Wemoto good for pattern parts. I prefer genuine for mechanical items but price does make a difference. Robinson's price for a clutch cable was ?38.50. Wemoto's was ?9.90. For bearings I'd go out of my way to track down made in Japan, UK, Europe, USA. Not always possible though, even the best known manufacturers, eg: RHP, SKF, contract out to manufacturers in the Far East. Some FE stuff is undoubtedly very good (obviously, anything actually made in Japan is going to be good quality), but it's still a bit of a gamble, it seems to me.
 
Cables and gaskets, especially gaskets that require a lot of effort to replace, OEM.
Anything else do what you want to do. Bearings from a bearing place, seals from a seal place, most everything else from whoever has a good product at a good price on Amazon or Ebay.
Some things can be far better than OEM, such as levers and perches with ball bearings in the lever, or a one finger design for the clutch lever, steering head bearings with tapered roller bearings instead of loose balls, much better brakes and suspension pieces are available elsewhere.
 
tkent02 said:
Cables and gaskets, especially gaskets that require a lot of effort to replace, OEM.
Anything else do what you want to do. Bearings from a bearing place, seals from a seal place, most everything else from whoever has a good product at a good price on Amazon or Ebay.
Some things can be far better than OEM, such as levers and perches with ball bearings in the lever, or a one finger design for the clutch lever, steering head bearings with tapered roller bearings instead of loose balls, much better brakes and suspension pieces are available elsewhere.
Click to expand...

So, just to make sure I've got this right, you're saying that pattern cables are so bad its worth paying 4 times their price for genuine ones??
 
Pattern cables? Not a term with which I am familiar, but yes, I'm willing to pay the asking price for Genuine Suzuki Parts for the clutch and throttle cables, based on my admittedly limited experience with the Motion Pro stuff.

It could be that the Suzuki product is over-engineered, and my clutch springs were not stock, but the MP cable stretched like crazy in less than a riding season. I'm at four years + on the SGP replacement, so I figure it's saving me money in the long run.
 
Jon said:
So, just to make sure I've got this right, you're saying that pattern cables are so bad its worth paying 4 times their price for genuine ones??
Click to expand...

I think they must get some dodgy old stuff out there. I've never had a problem with pattern cables, bought like you from Wemoto.

Caliper Pistons - I always buy stainless pattern, way better than OEM (they never rust, the downfall of originals). Pattern seals are fine as well but I always buy OEM dust boots - I've never found any even half decent pattern ones.
 
Noticed the individuals using the term "pattern" are across the "pond". Can you explain what the term means for those on this side?
 
I think counterfeit is probably a harsh indictment of the parts, given we use the term "countefeit" mainly in terms of fraud, but given the context I think we can take it as meaning a reasonable facsimile of another part.

There is even a website for their purchase.

http://www.patternparts.net/
 
Yeah, replica's a good alternative term. 'Pattern' comes from when one might take an item to an engineering shop and ask for them to make a copy - you'd give them the original (which might be worn out or broken) as a pattern. There is not necessarily any implication of judgement as to quality. Some pattern parts can be better than original, eg: Kibblewhite valvegear for Triumph twins.
 
OEM Rules

OEM Rules

goggles said:
Browsing through various sections of the forums. Noticed that in some cases oem parts recommended (ie. brake pistons rubber parts, clutch springs) but in other cases aftermarket seem to be fine. Is there a place that summarizes this rather than sorting through the different sections?

If not could we make one?
Click to expand...

Like Steve said...there's no section that advises when to use OEM and Aftermarket.

When I did my Master Cylinder Rebuild, I used OEM. When I replaced my clutch cable that broke during a ride in L.A., I used aftermarket. When I replaced my oil pan, I used OEM. I've had no issues.

I've used Parts Outlaw from Deland, FL for OEM. Ironic that I ended up living in Florida when I was ordering from those guys. If you're gonna maintain these vintage bikes, it's best to go OEM.


Ed
 
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