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Oil Change Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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I have a '82 GS650GL. I noticed that the oil is in horrible shape and needs to be changed. This is the first time I am changing the oil in a motorcycle and therefore I have a few questions.

So my questions:

1) How much oil do I put in after the oil change?

2) Will regular 10W40 from Walmart work or should I look for motorcycle blend?

3) Do I have to change the oil filter? They claim on cars that you only have to change the filter on every other oil change. I don't want to have to wait for the new filter to arrive or else I would change the filter.

4) What is the process? I found a bolt by the oil filter that drains some oil but not much. There is also a bolt in the center of the bottom of the engine but I was not able to get it out. Do both come out to drain the oil?

5) Would it be bad to change the oil immediatly before a 70-mile trip?
 
I have an '81 GS650GL.

1. The amount of oil depends on whether you change the filter or not. The volume is around 2.8 to 3.2 litres depending on the filter change. I can give you the exact specs from my Clymer manual when I get home.

2. I would recommend motorcycle 10W40 or 20W50 depending on your local conditions. (very hot weather, use 20W50) Regular 10W40 will work too if it has a SF or SG rating, no higher (ie. SL)

3. If your oil is dirty as you say, CHANGE THE FILTER. Hold off the oil change until you can replace the filter.

4. You can take the filter cover drain out or just take the filter cover off to drain it and get access to the filter. There is also a plug under the engine and should be one under the gearbox. All must be removed to drain the oil completely. The bolt under the center of the engine must come out to drain the oil.

5. If the oil is as bad as you say, change it as soon as you can, regardless of whether you are planning a trip or not. Oil changes are one of those simple, cheap things that you can do to maintain the bike.
 
just another note
i have been buying oil filters at discount auto parts for about $5 instead of the crazy OEM price--if they dont have it usually they can pull it in ffrom the warehouse overnight
 
Napa

Napa

The NAPA affiliated auto parts stores have daily access to their warehouses which stock filters for our bikes. Usually they can get by them next day even if you order it in the afternoon. I thnk the last time I changed my oil, the filter cost about $3.85, or so, and it looked to be a very good filter. :lol:
 
Ok. I found out that the local auto parts store does have a filter!! :D

I'm going to purchase the filter tonight and change the oil.


I hope you guys don't mind, but before I purchase the oil, another few more questions.

1) What is the difference between regular automotive oil and motorcycle oil?

2) Issues with using regular automotive oil in the motorcycle?
 
The differences between MC oil and regular oil... hmmm... how many books worth have been written in this forum alone about that?

I think we can all agree that things like SLICK50 are no-nos and any regular oil marked as "energy conserving" is also no good.

The debate between regular and motorcycle oil is a deadlock, as to some extent the regular/synthetic debate is. Different things work for different people and a lot of it has to do with how you use and treat your bike.

I use a 10W-40 motorcycle oil mainly because it will work for nearly any bike. By the way, the oil capacity is stamped on the engine in milliliters. For instance my bike has 2600mL stamped on the right-rear-top of the engine.
 
ampoliros said:
The differences between MC oil and regular oil... hmmm... how many books worth have been written in this forum alone about that?

I think we can all agree that things like SLICK50 are no-nos and any regular oil marked as "energy conserving" is also no good.

The debate between regular and motorcycle oil is a deadlock, as to some extent the regular/synthetic debate is. Different things work for different people and a lot of it has to do with how you use and treat your bike.

I use a 10W-40 motorcycle oil mainly because it will work for nearly any bike. By the way, the oil capacity is stamped on the engine in milliliters. For instance my bike has 2600mL stamped on the right-rear-top of the engine.
ill go with that one also :D
 
Indeed a lot has been written back and forth on this forum about oil. I guess everyone is right -- as long as our engines don't seize! :wink:

I continue to use 10W-40 motorcycle-specific oil, nonsynthetic. I recently saw an ad by Valvoline in Motorcyclist magazine. It announced that Valvoline now has 10W-40 (and perhaps 20W-50) motorcycle-specific mineral oil, available at AutoZone, Meijer, Murray's, Checker, Schucks, and Kragen stores.

There's an AutoZone in nearby Hagerstown. The price is about a dollar less per quart there than at the motorcycle dealers'. No difference in performance or consumption from the Suzuki or Honda oil I'd been using. I think I'll stick to Valvoline for now.

I also checked with my local PepBoys, and found no more oil filters. They used to sell Purolator oil filters for my GS, but no longer. It's good to know that I can go to a NAPA store and get one or more ordered.

Nick
 
Lets see, oil as black as new asphalt and smells even worse then it looks? Can't be good on an engine.

So I went ahead and changed the oil and filter tonight! I ran it for a few miles after the change to get gas and will check the oil level in the morning. I still don't feel like I put enough oil in (nearly 3 quarts) but my morning check will tell me for sure.

Thanks for all your help! Hopefully this will make it run a little smoother!
 
Just to be on the safe side, if that oil was really that bad...you may consider changing the oil again after that 70 mile ride to make sure you get alll that gunk out....if the oil was that bad......
 
Oil capacity for an '81 GS650GL:

2.6 quarts without filter change

3.4 quarts with filter change
 
Remember to check the oil level with the bike on the center stand, on a level surface.
Also, slick-50 gear lube can be used in the secondary gear box and the final drive gear box (on a shafty) for a bit of friction reduction. (im curently using it and can tell a bit of improvement)
 
Change the oil hot if at all possible, that way there will be more suspended particles in the oil instead of sitting in the bottom of your oil pan. Remember when choosing your oil, ask yourself where you are going to be riding. If you're going on a trip, will you be able to find that brand of oil in Bum F*&%, Alberta?

While we're on the subject of oil etc.... When you buy these oil filters, do you get the shaped O-ring for the filter cover? For a while I wasn't getting ANY, now a different brand, Meiwa, I believe, has one, but it doesn't fit my bike. Probably fits the other Suzukis which the filter also fits. :?:
 
mcycle-nut said:
Change the oil hot if at all possible, that way there will be more suspended particles in the oil instead of sitting in the bottom of your oil pan. Remember when choosing your oil, ask yourself where you are going to be riding. If you're going on a trip, will you be able to find that brand of oil in Bum F*&%, Alberta?

While we're on the subject of oil etc.... When you buy these oil filters, do you get the shaped O-ring for the filter cover? For a while I wasn't getting ANY, now a different brand, Meiwa, I believe, has one, but it doesn't fit my bike. Probably fits the other Suzukis which the filter also fits. :?:

I ONCE PURCHAESED AN EMGO FILTER AND IT DIDNT HAVE THE SQUIGGLY RUBBER ((O RING??)) GASKET---THE DISCOUNT AUTO PARTS DID AND I WILL ASUME THAT napa SUPPLYS THE GASKET AS MOST OF THEIR STUFF IS GOOD QUALITY
 
Oil..oil..what a debate!

The only test I have seen indicates not much difference at all between motorcycle specific oils and cars oils in terms of viscosity breakdown. basically a good oil (car or bike) is a good oil. Change it regulalrly first, then worry about car or bike oil next.

Any car oil that is an oil fuel conserving oil is not suitable for bikes as it may contain friction modifiers. Any oil of 50 weight or above does not have to conform to these standards, so is a safe bet, 40 weights or above are probbaly ok.

The normal good car oils are much better than the oils when the GSs were designed. The biggest difference I have found is putting on a decent big oil cooler...the oil has a much easier time and the mechanicals last better
 
mcycle-nut said:
While we're on the subject of oil etc.... When you buy these oil filters, do you get the shaped O-ring for the filter cover? For a while I wasn't getting ANY, now a different brand, Meiwa, I believe, has one, but it doesn't fit my bike. Probably fits the other Suzukis which the filter also fits. :?:


My FRAM filter from Advance Auto Parts came with the O-ring for the filter cover. You can find FRAM at just about any auto store, Walmarts, Meijers, or just about any other department store.

And yes, I did change the oil while it was hot.
 
Nick Diaz said:
I recently saw an ad by Valvoline in Motorcyclist magazine. It announced that Valvoline now has 10W-40 (and perhaps 20W-50) motorcycle-specific mineral oil, available at AutoZone, Meijer, Murray's, Checker, Schucks, and Kragen stores.

I can confirm that, my last oil (no filter) change was with that Valvoline purchased at the Meijer about 5 minutes from my place. I saw it there and decided to try it out... No problems as of yet. Didn't see any 20W-50 though.
 
GS 650 L oil leak

GS 650 L oil leak

I have a GS 650 L that I just bought, and it is leaking a bit of oil out of that front oil drain plug on the filter. I haven't taken it apart yet to look at it, but is there a gasket I can replace that will stop this, or could there be another problem? It is a very slow drip, and only while i'm reving the engine.

Also I use the Kawchem synthetic oil on my Kaw Vulcan. Is it a good idea to use the same brand of oil on my GS? I've been very happy with how it treats my Vulcan. Just wonderig if I should expect similar results.
 
Oil Change Questions

Time for my 2 1/2 sense..Get a Filter and all fluids at purchase (used) I assume, get a Clymer manual, test light, and remeber guys find out what the prior owner was using, stick with it.(within reason)if he got sucked into the synthetic stuff stay with it. I run from 1/2 mph to 120 mph in weather 10 degrees to 110 degrees on an all stock set-up except for duct-tape and it seems to just chatter away, PS: It seems to like mid to high range RPM's (don't know tach broke.) My support goes out to you. I use Castrol GTX 15-40. on a 25000 mile 850G.
 
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