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Oil coming out of nipple

  • Thread starter Thread starter gsracer06
  • Start date Start date
G

gsracer06

Guest
Hi i have a 82 gs1100l im getting running for my dads 50th birthday, i cleaned the carbs and changed all the fluids and put a new stator and wiring for the starter button. Anyway, there is a nipple on top of the bottom end directly below the carbs, it has a plastic hose that attaches to it and then it runs into the starter housing somewhere underneath the starter is that an oil hose for something or is it supposed to just be a breather hose? when i start the bike after it warms for a minute, oil fills the starter housing. The starter housin is not supposed to fill with oil is it? also i know the oil is coming from that hose because when i disconnect it oil shoots out the nipple, and the starter housing stays dry. Also the bike runs good and has plenty of power so what else could cause the crankcase to get pressurized besides rings?

Thank you very much in advance i know its a lot to read:)
 
Hey howdy hey!

Hey howdy hey!

Mr. gsracer06,

Before I give you the complete, all-out, non-stop, no-holes-barred, pedal-to-the-metal, super elastic mega-welcome let me ask this: Did the oil cooler get disconnected on your engine? I do believe all GS1100s had oil coolers.

Now, on with the welcome!

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures! :grin:

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the garage section via the GSR Hompage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr.

And here are some quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic maintenance needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.

***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.

And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com

Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
*************End Quote*************
**********Quoted from Mr. bwringer**********
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting.

It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years.

It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile o-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)

Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)

Valve clearances (more important than most people think)

Carb/airbox boots

Airbox sealing

Air filter sealing

Petcock (install a NEW one)

On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)

On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.

Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
**********End Quote**********
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer***************
http://denniskirk.com
Put in your bike model and see what they have.

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.

http://oldbikebarn.com seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.

OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

http://www.babbittsonline.com/
Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.

http://bikebandit.com
Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.

http://flatoutmotorcycles.com
Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.

http://alpha-sports.com
Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc.:
http://mcmaster.com
Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.

http://motorcycleseatcovers.com
Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.

http://newenough.com
You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************

Here are a few extra links:

Cycle-Re-Cycle Part 2
http://crc2onlinecatalog.com/

The ever popular Z1 Enterprises
http://www.z1enterprises.com

The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com

Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com


Lots of info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)
walmart_greeter2.jpg
 
too much oil in the engine?
gas leaking into the crankcase, filling it up?
 
There is no and as far as i can tell was never an oil cooler. I rebuilt the carbs and changed the oil twice to get the gas out of the crankcase and its only up to the f on the check window, but maybe ill change it again, im still not sure if its supposed to be a breather or what tho?:confused:
thank you very much for the replies:-D
 
There definitely should NOT be a hose running into the starter area! Put a longer hose in place of the one that is leaking & hold it up in the air while the bike is running to see if it continues to fill. I mean like a foot or 2 above the tank height. Let us know what happens then. Ray.
 
Yes, there SHOULD be a small vent hose running into the starter area. There's a hole under the starter that leads to a drain hole, and the vent hose is tucked into this.

Now, oil should NOT be shooting out of the vent fitting.

I would suspect that the breather at the top of the engine is clogged, allowing natural blowby to pressurize the engine.

There's a small breather cover attached to the top of the valve cover. There should be a large-ish hose (about 10mm in diameter) from this breather leading to the airbox.

It's fairly common for the fitting on the airbox to corrode shut, or for the hose to get pinched. Make sure the breather is clear and see where that gets you.

Also, if the o-ring on the starter nose is bad, oil will leak into the starter cavity. Might want to check that.

Here's the drain hole under the starter. The breather fitting in this photo is the silver-ish thing just above the word "under". The vent hose in this photo is sort of flipped up out of the way, but it normally runs through the slot at the front of the starter cavity and into the drain hole where the blue tubing is sticking out:

mystery2.jpg




The drain hole leads into a cavity in the cases, and here's the drain hole at the bottom of this cavity. I stuck a piece of blue tubing through these to show they're connected, but the vent hose does not go all the way through.
mystery1.jpg
 
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I stand corrected on that hose but we always pulled them out & routed them elsewhere just for this reason. You still need to find out why the oil is getting pushed out in the first place. Does the bike smoke when it is revved? Ray.
 
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