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Oil Cooler: Keep it?

  • Thread starter Thread starter AOD
  • Start date Start date
Hoomgar,

Now that's interesting stuff indeed (and I'm glad I switched to broadband recently, too!)...

Out of interest, whereabouts in the system is the regulator/ thermostat thingy situated? I see that in the intructions you have photographed, it refers to the "oil temperature control valve"... I have often wondered about setting something like this up with my oil-cooler, but haven't yet thought of a good way to set it up.

Mike.
 
tfb said:
Hoomgar,

Now that's interesting stuff indeed (and I'm glad I switched to broadband recently, too!)...

Out of interest, whereabouts in the system is the regulator/ thermostat thingy situated? I see that in the intructions you have photographed, it refers to the "oil temperature control valve"... I have often wondered about setting something like this up with my oil-cooler, but haven't yet thought of a good way to set it up.

Mike.

I honestly do not know. And come to think of it, if it is in the cooler itself (as I suspect it is) how would that work? Think about that one for a minute? :-k

Here is a pic of the back of the instructions.

DCP_7206.jpg


If I can remember to I will have a go at it tonight and see if I can figure it out. It just sounds good anyway :) Not really sure how it works :?
 
Hmmm, your photo there is a little too blurry (or is it my tired eyes?), but that's the question, isn't it. I mean, if you have the thermostat inline somewhere, the problem is how will it open if there is no warm oil nudging it to begin with, when there is zero flow?

But in your photo I can just make out something called a "sensor adapter" up there where the oil lines come off the rear of the crankcase. Mate, I'd be very interested to see if you can sleuth out how they've got it working.

My thought would be to have an electrically-operated valve in the cooler line, which is wired up to a thermostat stuck on the engine casing somewhere. Not that neat, but I think it could work. But the real thing you want to do is not only open one valve, you want to close another, so that the oil flow is directed straight to the filter housing when things are cold, but redirected through the cooler when things get hot. It's getting complicated...

Come to think of it, Hoomgar, if you could get a readable scan of those instructions emailed to me, I would find that a very useful bit of info!

Mike.
 
tfb said:
Hmmm, your photo there is a little too blurry (or is it my tired eyes?), but that's the question, isn't it. I mean, if you have the thermostat inline somewhere, the problem is how will it open if there is no warm oil nudging it to begin with, when there is zero flow?

But in your photo I can just make out something called a "sensor adapter" up there where the oil lines come off the rear of the crankcase. Mate, I'd be very interested to see if you can sleuth out how they've got it working.

My thought would be to have an electrically-operated valve in the cooler line, which is wired up to a thermostat stuck on the engine casing somewhere. Not that neat, but I think it could work. But the real thing you want to do is not only open one valve, you want to close another, so that the oil flow is directed straight to the filter housing when things are cold, but redirected through the cooler when things get hot. It's getting complicated...

Come to think of it, Hoomgar, if you could get a readable scan of those instructions emailed to me, I would find that a very useful bit of info!

Mike.

You got it buddy.
 
Hi Mark and Mike, I suspect the thermostat/bypass is built into the cooler as you suggest. I have been looking at a couple of add on type units and they still allow a small flow through the cooler even when the oil is cold. The reason they do this is for reducing the chance of damge to the engine from very cold oil being admitted once the thermostat does begin to allow flow. That's a nice looking setup Mark. Ray
 
Mark, where did you get your Derale?
 
AOD said:
Geoff, thanks for the links and info that explains what I was told by the owner (he's a bright guy). I guess I just had the part mixed up in my head.

Hmmn...so now the question is to buy the cover and fix the leak or just pull it all off???

I would fix the leak and use it. If you use the the oil cooler you should be able to pour another 11-12 fl. oz of oil to compensate for the lines and cooler.
 
dpep said:
Mark, where did you get your Derale?

I lucked out and got that one new in the box and complete off eBay Don. I think it was like 50 bucks or so shipped?
 
Hoomgar said:
dpep said:
Mark, where did you get your Derale?

I lucked out and got that one new in the box and complete off eBay Don. I think it was like 50 bucks or so shipped?
I hate it when that happens........to somebody else. :lol:
 
Jethro, you said the cover is available in aftermarket from BikeBandit, or just buy a GS1150 cover from an '84 Suzuki?

~Adam
 
I have scanned my Derale QA-1 oil cooler document and have it in a PDF file now for anyone who wants it? I have no place to host it. Can someone host it for me? It's less than 350k.

In the meantime I can email it. TFB, send me another email buddy so I can send it to you.

Rock on 8)


P.S. Not to hijack your thread Adam, I know your still waiting for an answer from Jethro to your question. Sorry about this but this is where this belonged.
 
Don't know if this helps anyone but here are some pics. This is what came with my Lockhart cooler kit (which I couldn't use for the 1000):

100_1284.jpg

100_1286.jpg


This is similar to Mark's. For the older 8 valve models:

100_1467.jpg


My installation on the 1000 required a total of 4 2/3 quarts to compensate for the lines and cooler. Mine does not have a cut-off valve installed. I was thinking that maybe during the cold season I would come up with some kind of cover for the cooler to block the cold air reaching the cooler fins. But I don't know if that is really necessary. On my 1150 in cold weather it takes a long time to warm the oil up.
 
AOD, any 1150 oil filter cover will do, genuine, off a wreck etc.
One trick that was used in Oz was to get a banjo bolt with a thermo switch in it,particularly if using the tapped holes either side of the filter cover on GSX(16 valve for the 'mericans :wink: ) motors, replace the right hand (viewed from the seat) banjo bolt, I can see no reason why this would not work on the supply side of a rear take off either.
One point to ponder for everyone! Engine oil is supposed to run HOT, i.e. about 100 C (212F) and does not perform as well below that temperature, my 1150 has a temp guage and a cooler stock, I have not as yet (admittedly only had it six years)had it indicate 212F on that temp gauge, I do a far bit of "extra-legal" running.
Dink
 
Renobruce,

Those are great photos, nice and clear. Mind if I use them on my oil-cooler webpage? It's all part of my attempt to get the vital info. in the one place, because GS oil-coolers have had many (inc. me) well-and-truly bamboozled...

I've never had a close gawk at a Lockhart set-up before -- but now I have. :wink: I can see what they've done there, no worries. I assume that the right-hand (from the rider's point of view) take-off point had a fitting that slotted down through the cover into the oil-passage?

Also, that's an interesting-looking set up at the oil-switch cover on the GS1000... is that a Lockhart thing also?

Dink, some good info. there. Are such banjos with internal thermos available here in Oz? If so, where could I get one?

Hoomgar, I've emailed you my email address -- so thanks in advance for the copy of the Derale installation instructions.

You're all a bunch of champs -- have a great New Year!

Mike.
 
tfb said:
Renobruce,

Those are great photos, nice and clear. Mind if I use them on my oil-cooler webpage? It's all part of my attempt to get the vital info. in the one place, because GS oil-coolers have had many (inc. me) well-and-truly bamboozled...

I've never had a close gawk at a Lockhart set-up before -- but now I have. :wink: I can see what they've done there, no worries. I assume that the right-hand (from the rider's point of view) take-off point had a fitting that slotted down through the cover into the oil-passage?

Also, that's an interesting-looking set up at the oil-switch cover on the GS1000... is that a Lockhart thing also?

Mike.

Here's a link to my photos..... use any that you want. There are some others you may want to use. http://photobucket.com/albums/b182/renobruce/GS1000/

There were no other special fittings.. nothing else going inside the cover. Just screw on the proper fitting on the outside and hook up your lines. I'm not sure who made the oil switch adapter. I bought it on e-bay. Glad I could help. :D
 
AOD Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2005 4:20 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jethro, you said the cover is available in aftermarket from BikeBandit, or just buy a GS1150 cover from an '84 Suzuki?

Yup, just buy the 1150 cover. I'll try and find a part # for you. it's like $34 or something.
 
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