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oil pan gasket leak

  • Thread starter Thread starter wompin
  • Start date Start date
W

wompin

Guest
I just rebuilt my 79 gs1000 motor and finally fired it up today. It runs! Such a good feeling. Well, its gonna take some tuning and finish work still.

For one thing. Ive got a leak at the sump gasket as well as the filter housing studs and possibly o-ring. Normally I would think 'ok ill just replace the old stuff'. Problem is, the gasket is brand new, the oil pan bolts are torqued properly, and the same for the filter housing.

Any suggestions besides replacing the new gasket and filter o-ring. Could/should I try gasket sealing compound or the like? Thanks for your tips
 
i use a thin coat of hight temp rtv on most gaskets...i just replaced my very leaky pan gasket yesterday with success.

mine would litterally leak about a 4 inch puddle of oil after riding down the highway..i ran 90 mph for 1/2 mile last night an no leaks this mornin
 
wompin said:
Any suggestions besides replacing the new gasket and filter o-ring. Could/should I try gasket sealing compound or the like? Thanks for your tips
Click to expand...

Is it a OEM oil pan gasket? It has to be a certain thickness to seal right. Did you use a pattern to tighten your oil pan nuts?
 
If you have to use gasket goop on those areas something is wrong - they should seal easily. Are you sure that there are no old bits of gasket stuck on the sump? Plus replace the O ring on the oil filter cover if you haven't already done so.
 
gasket remedy

gasket remedy

Once I rebuild my wiring harness Im going to give it the 20 min rebuilt motor break-in, then Ill drain the oil, get ready for new oil/filter. In the mean time ill check for a clean mating surface.

The gasket is Vesrah. I know thats the most hated around here, but my budgets tight and the price was right. it seemed well made. 1-1.5mm thick or so. rubber/fiber-like material

i may do the goop or i see boulevard suzuki has oem gasket for 8 bucks.

i dont think the haynes manual gave me a torque sequence. what is it?
 
On the sump pan there is no tightening sequence given (or necessary - just do it up evenly). The book of words gives the torque for the bolts as 5.5 to 6.5 lb-ft

Your Vesrah gasket will be fine for the sump.
 
Results soon

Results soon

Right then. Ill give it due attention during the oil change, and attempt to seal it up well. Stay tuned for results. Thanks for the tips.

BTW, If I dont see any visible problem with the mating surface, Ill probably want to brush on a gasket sealer of some kind just so Im at least attempting something new to seal the sump. Any preferred brand, type?
 
Last Summer I woke up to find my erstwhile seeping oilpan had dumped the contents of the sump on the driveway.

I had a hairline crack on the inboard side adjacent to a bolt hole.
You could barely see the crack but the piece broke off with a bit of manipulation.
 
wompin said:
Right then. Ill give it due attention during the oil change, and attempt to seal it up well. Stay tuned for results. Thanks for the tips.

BTW, If I dont see any visible problem with the mating surface, Ill probably want to brush on a gasket sealer of some kind just so Im at least attempting something new to seal the sump. Any preferred brand, type?
Click to expand...

Odds are you'll be able to identify a problem. That gasket should seal dry with no troubles.

Griffin put me onto this stuff: Permatex 85249 Hylomar Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing and Flange Sealant

"Non-hardening and non-setting, allowing repeated disassembly and reassembly"

I've only recently started using it, so I can't report my own results yet.
 
wompin said:
i dont think the haynes manual gave me a torque sequence. what is it?
Click to expand...

Even though there isn't a sequence listed, I still tighten any thing with that has several fasteners whether it is the oil pan or valve covers.

Here is the sequence I use, start in the middle and work out and crisscross as you go. I usually do 2-3 passes, Don't tighten all the way down the first pass. Last pass is to torque specs if they list one. Don't over tighten either, you just crush the gasket and have to start all over.
 
hampshirehog said:
If you have to use gasket goop on those areas something is wrong - they should seal easily. Are you sure that there are no old bits of gasket stuck on the sump? Plus replace the O ring on the oil filter cover if you haven't already done so.
Click to expand...

Ditto that, mating surface needs to free of old gasket material and "NO" oil on the surface either...
 
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