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Oil Pressue Gauge Damping

renobruce said:
I saw that, and it's a good idea. But it would be a pain to do if you are selling several per week.
Click to expand...

:lol: me too, I was just thinking large scale rather than "Jim in his shed" ;) :lol:

I would think at worst it would need a brass bush made to similar dimensions to Jim's filler that fits in the elbow. Should be trapped by the elbow & the gauge I would think if the elbow is abgled or tapered. Worse case you'd have to cross drill the bottom or do something that looks like a castle nut (hub nut) to ensure you got flow to the centre of the bush or put a slight taper on it so it was a press fit or something & couldn't drop down & block flow.

I've never studied one of these gauges & the elbow in ernest but I'm sure it would be a pretty simple thing to figure out & yes I'm pretty sure I could get them made up for you fairly cheap in qty.

Cheers,

Dan :)
 
ryonker

ryonker

So you have an 8V GS750 with little bounce.

I have 16V GS1100E sound like the top end oiler may be an issue.


Ed,
What bike were you running one? Did you get alot of needle bounce?

I will move the guage to my 81 GS750E (16V) to see what it does there.

pos
 
Ed was running his on a 82 GS850G. I think he had an oil cooler on it & off it at the time from memory (ie. he ran it both with & without).

Dan :)
 
Mine is on an 850. Needle has high frequency oscillation and no longer comes back to zero. The gauge was only on the bike for about 800 miles and has never been subjected to missed shifts or anything of the sort. During the recent SW rally, I noticed one of the GSR member's bikes that has one of those gauges and it also didn't come back to zero - it was worse than mine.
 
posplayr said:
So you have an 8V GS750 with little bounce.

I have 16V GS1100E sound like the top end oiler may be an issue.


Ed,
What bike were you running one? Did you get alot of needle bounce?

I will move the guage to my 81 GS750E (16V) to see what it does there.

pos
Click to expand...

It could just be a defective gauge.
 
It could just be a defective gauge.
Click to expand...

Bruce, when teh biek is cold and the oild is thick there is little oscillation. Even when hot at idle the bouncing is moderate as the RPM is low.

It is at 4-5K RPM where the needle will flail.

Does that sound defective?

Again it gets better with more restriction.

If the damper in the guage is not working then maybe that is what you mean by defective.
 
posplayr said:
Bruce, when teh biek is cold and the oild is thick there is little oscillation. Even when hot at idle the bouncing is moderate as the RPM is low.

It is at 4-5K RPM where the needle will flail.

Does that sound defective?

Again it gets better with more restriction.

If the damper in the guage is not working then maybe that is what you mean by defective.
Click to expand...

My gauges on my bikes don't fluctuate much at all. I do get a little bounce (maybe 1 psi) when I'm riding. But if it's sitting, hot or cold, I don't get any to speak of. So yes, maybe it's something wrong with the gauge. I had a guy complain once that his bounced all over the place. I replaced it and he said it was all better.
 
salty_monk said:
:lol: me too, I was just thinking large scale rather than "Jim in his shed" ;)

I would think at worst it would need a brass bush made to similar dimensions to Jim's filler that fits in the elbow. Should be trapped by the elbow & the gauge I would think if the elbow is abgled or tapered. Worse case you'd have to cross drill the bottom or do something that looks like a castle nut (hub nut) to ensure you got flow to the centre of the bush or put a slight taper on it so it was a press fit or something & couldn't drop down & block flow.

I've never studied one of these gauges & the elbow in ernest but I'm sure it would be a pretty simple thing to figure out & yes I'm pretty sure I could get them made up for you fairly cheap in qty.

Cheers,

Dan :)
Click to expand...

I'll let you guys work on manufacturing, but for what I did it takes about 2 minute to:
1.) fill the chanber with paper towel to keep epoxy out.
2.) fill engine side of the plug with automotive structural epoxy
3.) 1 hr to dry
4.) 15 sec drill a 0.039 hole.

If you custom make the elbow, dont drill as big of a hole, but drilling 1/2" of brass with a 0.039" drill will take a few minutes.

If you want to use a plug of something, you will still end up drilling it out. It works best if it is relatively soft. Expoxy self forms and drys hard and is easy to drill.

I'll defer to you guys on time motion studies for high volume production optimization;)

Jim
 
You can't CNC paper towel & Epoxy :lol: ideal solution for what you're doing though :)
 
I thought those pressure gauges were liquid filled and provided dampning... not true?
 
Interesting thought on this today, browsing the manual for the 83750ES 16v TSCC engine. It gives figures for an oil pressure test.

It quotes:

Above 36PSI but below 78PSI at 3000RPM.

This is with the engine hot (warmed up for 10min at 2k rpm or 20 min if it's winter).

If this is the case wouldn't that be way off the gauge if Jim is using the same pump / gear?

Dan :)
 
salty_monk said:
Interesting thought on this today, browsing the manual for the 83750ES 16v TSCC engine. It gives figures for an oil pressure test.

It quotes:

Above 36PSI but below 78PSI at 3000RPM.

This is with the engine hot (warmed up for 10min at 2k rpm or 20 min if it's winter).

If this is the case wouldn't that be way off the gauge if Jim is using the same pump / gear?

Dan :)
Click to expand...

The 16 valve 750 uses a plain crank high pressure motor. It has the same oil pump gears, but they run much higher pressure. The same gears in an 8 valve motor will increase the pressure by a few psi.
 
I'll be able to test this on my red hotrod, if I ever get her running! I just put 750 oil pump gears in.
 
I have an update on the pressure guage. I posted here a description of the problem the Bourdon gauge suffers from vibration. It needs to be mechanically damped or teh internal mechanisim will be beat to death.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1144976&postcount=9

The technique described in this tread does work,(to stop needle bounce due to engine pressure pulsation) but once your guage gets hammered enough the hydraulic damping will do nothing about needle bounce once those pivots on item #4 get worn.

On mine you could see little flecks of brass dust on the face. That is from the wear at the pivots. Relocating to the handlebar is a must for longevity.

I should mention, I think RenoBruce does provide an oversized rubber O ring that is a must if you do an engine direct install. Figuring out a way to do even more rubber for shock isolation would help even more. I took the o-ring off before I realized all this and the damage accelerated.
 
Last edited:
I use liquid filled (glycerin)15psi gauge`s on all of my bikes. I get the gauges from Northern Hydraulic catalog and they last a long time (years) and the more you buy the cheaper they are. They have all kinds of pressure sizes for about 18-20$ a piece. All I do is drill the plug and tap it and install it and ride it. Never had a problem with them :D.
 
Jim, I think you were definitely on to something when you stated earlier in this thread that the opening feeding the gauge should be smaller. VDO has recently re-designed their gauge, and I noticed that the opening on the bottom is about 50% smaller than before.

100_8093.jpg
 
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