oil pressure light flickering at idle

[malibuman]

Its a 1981 gs850 that has been over... in km (high milage)
with a lockhart cooler.

I just found the wire that was off the sender the other day and pluged it back then started the bike and noticed the light.If I rev it up it goes out.I had I good idea or so it seemed at the time (clamp the line feeding the oil cooler)Bad idea the braided line burst. Oil all over the shop and on my 1972 gmc that I am trying to restore (but somehow boats and now bikes are more interesting then sanding bondo and primer)

So my question is.......

Is the lockhart cooler flowing too much oil and the light is on?
I now know I have pressure in that line but is it just going to the crankcase and not flowing to the head?
How do I check for oil flow to the head with out takeing the valve cover off?

James

And yes I used the search function

 

[Guest]

If you blew the line out and it squirted oil I don't think oil pressure is a problem.
Take off the oil sensor and clean the spring and plunger.
Where is the oil cooler tapped?

 

[malibuman]

oily mess in garage

oily mess in garage

The lines r tapped right under the carbs

James

 

[Big T]

I agree, it's more likely the switch is gummed up

 

[Shin-Ken 1074]

The Suzi oil light will flicker on and off if the "O-ring" in the sump has been displaced from its position. Have you had the sump off? If not sometimes the "O-ring" becomes compressed with age and can move from it normal position.

I have been through this exact problem recently and thought I was up for a new oil pump. Dropped the sump and sure enough the "O-ring was sitting in the sump tray and not on its post, new "O-ring" and now oil light problem is gone, cheers.

 

[Guest]

The Suzi oil light will flicker on and off if the "O-ring" in the sump has been displaced from its position. Have you had the sump off? If not sometimes the "O-ring" becomes compressed with age and can move from it normal position.

I have been through this exact problem recently and thought I was up for a new oil pump. Dropped the sump and sure enough the "O-ring was sitting in the sump tray and not on its post, new "O-ring" and now oil light problem is gone, cheers.

That's scary!!!

 

[rustybronco]

the top picture is of a Kerker oil cooler adapter. it uses a rubber "cup shaped" seal which slips over the small nipple on the lower portion (engine side) of the oil cooler adapter. that seal is intended to seal the adapter to the oil supply port in the engine, ensuring the oil flow does not divert the switch. if the "cup seal" is missing, oil flow will bypass the switch and your oil light will flicker. you will still have the correct oil pressure (flow), but with it bypassing the switch you won't have enough to keep the switch from grounding out and turning the light on.

you will need to remove the adapter to measure the depth of the hole and the length of the nipple. if there is any gap (1/16-1/8" ?) your going to have to make up a new seal.

 

[Nessism]

Good thing that line burst, clamping off that line will starve both the top end and transmission of oil.

Dale has this one covered; most likely you are not getting a good seal down over the oil port. If the rubber seal is deterioriated, you can make one from a dowty seal (steel washer with rubber O-ring captured at the ID). I picked one up at the local auto parts store and it fit perfectly over the oil port after some flats were ground in the washer to match the shape of the oil distribution cavity in the engine. The dowty seal was captured nicely in the cavity so it can't get away and the oil cooler adapter came down and caped it off nicely.

 

[malibuman]

removed adapter plate today

removed adapter plate today

So I removed the adapter plate tonight and the seal is deformed and as hard as plastic.So oil is defintaly getting around it.I like the idea of the dowty seal but what size and how do yoou keep it from not being centered in the bore the old seal has a step in it to keep it centered.Do you have a part number?I found a valve stem seal in my garage but I don't think it would stand up to the oil.Are Dowty seals oil resistant?

Thanks for all your help but I think I need lots more

James

 

[Nessism]

The dowty seal I used was found at a local auto parts store in the drain plug area so it should be fine living in oil (valve stem seals will live in oil too).

 

[malibuman]

Its a tire valve stem seal so i have no idea.But I woundn't trust it

James

 

[posplayr]

The dowty seal I used was found at a local auto parts store in the drain plug area so it should be fine living in oil (valve stem seals will live in oil too).

Now I know what to use to stop my oil cooler Banjo bolts from leaking :lol: .
14mm looks like it 9/16 dowty seal will work just sweet

http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Earls/PA_Seals.asp


[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial, Helvetica]40-178109ERL[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial, Helvetica]Earl's 9/16" Dowty Seal (QTY 2) Fits -6 AN Fitting[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Arial, Helvetica]

$7.69 ​

[/FONT]

 

[malibuman]

Its fixed

Its fixed

I used a dowty seal thats is made for a gm drain plug.Now the oil light is off when the bike is running.

Thank you guys are a big help.

James