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oilcooler

  • Thread starter Thread starter Niklas
  • Start date Start date
N

Niklas

Guest
Hi!
Im doing a little rebuild on my gs1000 with tougher clutch springs and basic tuning that dont require a total motor disassembly (airfilter, exhaust, shocks, digital ignition e.t.c) and im going to add a oilcooler system from a vfr 750.
And i have some questions i want to throw out there:
1 Have anyone some input of the benefits of oilcooling on the gs?
2 Will there be worth my effort to open up the intake and exhaust on the top, and if so, will i need to change the jet setup an my stock carbs? ( its a -80 GS E)
Kind regards.
/Nik
 
I can answer the first question anyway.
Yes, oil coolers help.
They especially help in keeping the stators cooler and that is what kills them... heat.
As for the other question, I don't understand what you are trying to ask.

Eric
 
7981GS;1716268 As for the other question said:
Im sorry , bad english i suppose. :o)
The question is: Increase the gas flow into the top by widening the intake valves. And naturally also the exhaust. Is it worth the effort without doing anything else like 73,5 bore?
Should i leave the top to a firm or do it myself?
 
Best thing you can do for your bike is leave it stock and make sure it's running perfectly. Don't mess around with the oiling system or cylinder head in any way.

A well cared for GS will easily run to 100,000 miles. Don't go messing it up by changing everything.

The GS engine easily tolerates oil temperatures of 300F without damage. If you live in the desert where the temperature is killer hot every day than maybe consider an oil cooler. I don't think you have that problem in Sweden.
 
Unless you are building a dragrace engine, the stock rods are PLENTY strong. Even then, the stock rods are good for over 200 hp, which you will NOT see with your engine! I use the Katana, 493, STOCK Suzuki rods on high hp engines with NO problems. You couldn't PAY me to use Falicon products!
Ray.
 
Well thats useful info Ray. Thank you. You saved me a handful of dollars! Is it not true though that wellbalanced rods with the exact weight can give you a couple of hp more?
 
Why would balanced rods make any extra power? And how do you know the stock rods aren't balanced already? Read Ray's post again and take it to heart. Save your $$ for something more useful like a heavy duty clutch back plate and springs. My latest GS1000 has one and it's a noticeable improvement over the rattly stock clutch hub.
 
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Rods that have the exact same weight and are balanced right can give you an increase in power because the engine doesent waste any power on inbalance, all according to a schoolbook in basic engine mechanics i have at my bedside table. :)
But I do Nessim, I do take rays words to hart, and im not going to waste money on rods. If the stock rods can take 200 hp then its great! I will not have that kind of power in my engine. Maybe half of that.
And the clutch is certainly something im going to do something about, you think swapping the entire hub is more beneficial than just the springs?
 
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Okay -the adapter is here.

Okay -the adapter is here.

Just got my adapter to the oilcooler. Anybody want to tell me some "do"s and "dont"s ? :)
I have never installed a oil cooler before and I have to read up on the subject i think. Maybe someone got anything useful to add?
 
The nicest way that I have seen the lines mounted was up under the tank.
Usually, people route them around the cylinder head either on one side or both.
If your 1000 is a 4-valve engine, just straight up from the oil filter locations.

Eric
 
nah, its a classic 8 valve engine. The adapter is located behind the cylinder, but maybe i can fit the lines under the tank anyway.
And I have seen pics of the lines eia the cylinderhead (wich is in pieces right noe du to the valves leaking)
It would surely hide the lines in a very good way.
 
The bike with the lines under the tank had them going over the airbox looping around to the ports on the back of the engine.
I liked the clean look myself and will try to copy it someday on a couple of my bikes.

Eric
 
The nicest way that I have seen the lines mounted was up under the tank.
Usually, people route them around the cylinder head either on one side or both.
If your 1000 is a 4-valve engine, just straight up from the oil filter locations.

Eric

My oil cooler lines are mounted underneath the tank and go to a modified
oil pressure switch housing. Now this was on the bike when I got it, I was at one point going to take it off and make it a stock bike. This is a '79 and I had a '78 which didn't have an oil cooler and as far as I'm concerned it didn't make a bit of difference that I ever noticed.
Here you can see the oil cooler mounted on the front of the frame, and you can see just a little length of the line that runs under the tank, same on both sides.
100_1597.jpg
 
nah, its a classic 8 valve engine. The adapter is located behind the cylinder, but maybe i can fit the lines under the tank anyway.
And I have seen pics of the lines eia the cylinderhead (wich is in pieces right noe du to the valves leaking)
It would surely hide the lines in a very good way.

What kind of adapter did you get? It's critical that the pick up tube fits down tightly on the engine oil port otherwise you won't get good oil flow through the cooler. And speaking of oil flow, the extra plumbing will add pumping losses in the system. Some people like to use the oil pump gears from the GS750 since they spin the pump faster and increase oil pressure and flow rate, thus mitigating the pumping losses. Keeping your plumbing lines as short as possible will help reduce the losses too, so that's the counter point against running the lines up over the top of the engine. Lastly, if you want to put together a really killer system you might consider working a thermostat into the system in some way. The plumbing gets more complicated, but you don't have to worry about over cooling the oil with a thermostat in the system.
 
Pointiaco > Im doing it your way I think. I thought it was ugly, but it actally nice!
:)
 
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