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Ok, so I just busted the ...?

  • Thread starter Thread starter JMHJ
  • Start date Start date
J

JMHJ

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Last week I was on my way to work and getting on the highway with enthusiasm, when between 1st and 2nd, something broke (GS850).

The bike still runs, seems to shift fine, and rolls in neutral, but it don't go. I pulled back the boot between the driveshaft tube and the engine/trans part of the bike tonight, and that part in there with the three bolts turns with the bike in neutral (on the centerstand, rolling rear wheel by hand), but only turns a little and stops when it's in gear (rear wheel will turn back and forth).

It would seem like something at the terminal end of the shaft is messed up, but I don't know why it turns at all up by the front end of it if that's the case. I haven't pulled anything apart yet. I looked for my Clymer a couple of days ago, and couldn't find it.

I had to push it almost a mile home, mostly uphill, and that was a little more work than I expected when I started.
 
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Agreed that first step is to pull the wheel and look at final drive teeth as well as the hub on the wheel.

You may need to pull the final drive off completely if you still can't see anything wrong. Just don't take the final drive apart until you are sure it is something inside of it.
 
I'm parting out an 80 850. If you figure out what you need.
 
If you have an '82 or later, I'd suspect rear wheel splines.
 
Thanks. That doesn't sound as bad as I thought. It is an '83 model. I may not get to it right away, but I'll post what I find.
 
Hi,

I agree. It's a worn out rear wheel spline. You'll see it in the rear wheel removal guide on my little website.

spline_reallybad.jpg



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
exact samething happened to my 1100 last fall, looked just like that pictures. I was able to get a used one for $40 and change it out in a matter of a hour. Only thing you have to worry about is the Philips head bolts stripping out. Since they are philips the heads aren't as tall as normal bolts and getting a socket it sit on them was a bit of a challenge. Maybe you'll luck out and have normal bolts, my 1100 had normal bolts but the parts bike had the philips head bolts
 
stevey9 said:
exact samething happened to my 1100 last fall, looked just like that pictures. I was able to get a used one for $40 and change it out in a matter of a hour. Only thing you have to worry about is the Phillips head bolts stripping out. Since they are Phillip's the heads aren't as tall as normal bolts and getting a socket it sit on them was a bit of a challenge. Maybe you'll luck out and have normal bolts, my 1100 had normal bolts but the parts bike had the Philip's head bolts
Click to expand...

It is actually a bolt slotted for a JIS Phillips driver, see item # 14,

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fich...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1982&fveh=2144


There isn't enough room around the bolt to use a socket or box end wrench. Use a JIS driver to remove the screws, it will give you much better bite and you may be able to reuse the hardware. The OEM replacement screws are actually longer bodied bolts that you can get a grip on with a socket and eliminate the problem altogether.

I drilled mine and use safety wire to keep them in place for added security.

Cheers
 
JMHJ said:
...
.....
It would seem like something at the terminal end of the shaft is messed up, but I don't know why it turns at all up by the front end of it if that's the case. I haven't pulled anything apart yet. I looked for my Clymer a couple of days ago, and couldn't find it...
....
Click to expand...

mike, Hub in rear wheel can be inspected by removing the rear wheel. But also really need to then pull the hub from the rear wheel to better inspect it.
If you look for this part in moicrfisch, it is called "Joint assembly".

WIll be PMing you here in a bit.

Here is picture of mine of a heavly worn one (82 stock) as compare to a new one (current OEM replacement). Sounds like yours wore thin enough then completly failed.
Apr04_compare_web.jpg

Notice how the wear area is not acrost the full width of the spline. The unworn end is the end you see when hub is still in the wheel.

Dave

.
 
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JMHJ said:
I had to push it almost a mile home, mostly uphill, and that was a little more work than I expected when I started.
Click to expand...

Wow. The last time I had the endurance to do that, Jimmy Carter was president. I'm impressed!
 
Yes, it was the rear wheel splined hub/joint assembly part.

I finally got around to tearing into it today. It looks very much like the the one in the pic that Cliff posted; it looked ok at first, because the little bits of the teeth that are left is what you see when you look at it mounted in the wheel. Found out I really need a set of rear brake pads too.

Unfortunately, there was also a little bit of damage to maybe a third or so of the inside (toward the left side of the bike) teeth on the drive portion. It didn't look like enough to worry much about though, and I plan to take it a little easier from here on anyway, at least as far as the way I release the clutch sometimes.

It didn't take me an hour though; more like several. I spent a while just cleaning out crud from around the drive splined part. It's all back together, and seems to be working fine now.

Many thanks for the knowledgeable help, and to Dave for the part (a nice dark one :)). Thanks also for the offer, Konnick.
 
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