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Opening the perverbial can of worms! Oil

  • Thread starter Thread starter fishnetter
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fishnetter

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Ok. don't want a huge debate, or any problems,but, what brand/ type/ weight oil do you use in your 79 GS1000? I used to use Torco, but, has you probably know, it's not made any more. A good oil for a 79 GS1000 with some miles on it. I'm thinking some kind of Castrol. what are you using?
And for this bike with a few miles on it, with the wet sump clutch, are there any additives you can use with no adverse effects, that won't be bad for the clutch slipping, or other issues that could create a problem, that will help the engine last longer?Thanks!
 
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Mobil1 is the way to go. Mobil1 is made for high temperature like an air-cooled motor, remember the old frying pan ads. It will not hurt your clutch. Only a bad clutch will slip because of oil type or oil change.
 
I use fish oil. Take one tablet every day. They say it's good for you but it gives off a nasty after taste if you belch afterward.
 
Hi,

From your "mega-welcome":

A Few Words About Oil
I'll tell you what I use and why. I use Rotella-T Heavy Duty 15w40 oil. It is actually diesel engine oil and contains more anti-wear additives, phosphorous and zinc, that these older high-revving engines love. At about $12 a gallon from Wal-Mart, it's less than half the price of many motorcycle-specific oils, and is the best "bang for your buck" value. The synthetic Rotella-T is just fine too, it won't hurt your clutch. If you like, continue reading the links below for everything you ever wanted to know about oil but were afraid to ask.
Here's a great article on motorcycle-specific oil in general.
Here's a 2nd great article, also on motorcycle-specific oil.
Sport Rider Magazine ran a feature awhile back on motorcycle oils as well, and included some testing with detailed results provided. Well worth the read!
Sport Rider "Oil's Well That Ends Well" Part 1
Sport Rider "Oil's Well That Ends Well" Part 2
Richard Wildman (of Richard's Corvair) explains in layman's terms all about grades, viscosity, shear, additives, specs, etc.
Richard's Corvair - Selection of the Right Motor Oil for the Corvair and Other Engines

And, of course, Bob the Oil Guy is a fountain of information.



I guess it's been a while since my "What kind of oil to use in my tires?" thread. :D


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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Looks like BassCliff has given you all the info you could need .
For what it's worth , I run a straight 50W mineral oil in my '79 GS1000S . I live in the tropics and find that our ambient temps are a little higher than most folk on here so I go for a "thicker" oil . A gentle warm up while I put my gear on before a ride is the go .

Cheers , Simon . :)
 
I will second what BassCliff says, I use 15W40, usually rotella, sometimes delvac, or even Supertech. Around $10 a gallon, works fine with clutch. Mine has an appetite for oil so cheap and readily available is highest priority.
 
Rotella 15w40 here, use it in my cummins so I always have lots around
 
I use fish oil. Take one tablet every day. They say it's good for you but it gives off a nasty after taste if you belch afterward.


Heh, I take three a day(along with a handfull of other weird smelling pills)

I use Rotella in the blue jug. 20 bux at Wally World
 
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I use Royal Purple or Amsoil. It has been running cooler than Dino oil did and in an air cooled engine, that cant be a bad thing. I "hear" less noise in the engine and I dont have any issues with the transmission slipping. I know $8 a quart (in my area) is a taste high for some people, but the benefits Ive received going that way, are worth it. Im also running a HyFlo filter.
 
I use Royal Purple or Amsoil. It has been running cooler than Dino oil did and in an air cooled engine, that cant be a bad thing. I "hear" less noise in the engine and I dont have any issues with the transmission slipping. I know $8 a quart (in my area) is a taste high for some people, but the benefits Ive received going that way, are worth it. Im also running a HyFlo filter.

How much cooler and how are you verifying that? Technically speaking synthetic oil will not make your engine run cooler under normal conditions, but will help at melt down type temperatures.
 
Thanks for the input gentlemen (and i use that term loosly,hahah!). i figured any kind of motor oil would do. looks like the resounding winner is Rotella. i have two Wally worlds in the cith where i live, and i'm half way in between both of them. very convenient! will be testing my rebuilt petcock tomorrow, to see if any leaks occur(has i'm saying a small prayer!!). if no leaks, i'm putting it back together, buying a battery, and seeing if she'll fire after 10 1/2 years being apart (another small prayer being said). then if that all goes well, it's off to the shop to have the carbs balanced. they were rebuilt about 6 months after the bike being taken apart for new stator/regulator/rectifier.
Some of you may remember several months ago, i had it up for sale here on the forum. i won't get into some of the things that were said about my bike. it's not perfect, but pretty clean! and when i do reintroduce it to the world for sale, it will make a great, simple project for someone that has the dow to do the things it needs. i'm the original owner, and i will hate letting it go, that is if i get what i want for it. otherwise, i'll just keep it.
Anyways, thanks for all the input on the oil!
 
From what I understand pretty much any oil that does not have the energy conservation seal/label on the back of the container can be used.
 
I noticed the same thing with Amsoil; less heat being radiated from the engine.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=453827&postcount=16

From a technical standpoint I don't understand how synthetic can reduce temperatures beyond maybe a nominal level. One of these days I'll waste some money and do some back to back oil change testing with a couple different oils (my bike has an oil temp gauge). Guess it wouldn't be a waste if the oil was captured...:-k
 
From a technical standpoint I don't understand how synthetic can reduce temperatures beyond maybe a nominal level.
Ed, I know you require data. sorry, but I can't supply that information. I wish I had a method of accurately measuring those temp differences.

my thinking, as un-scientific as it is, is based on the two factors. 1) non hydro cracked, hydro cracked and chemically created base stocks 'should' have differing friction qualities. for example, it easier to roll a ball bearing than a brick. 2) my mileage increased from 43 'ish to 46-47 consistently between dyno oil and Amsoil.

also, is there a difference in the heat transferring abilities between dyno and a true synthetic base stock? as you, inquiring minds would like to know.

further testing is needed. :D
 
I will second what BassCliff says, I use 15W40, usually rotella, sometimes delvac, or even Supertech. Around $10 a gallon, works fine with clutch. Mine has an appetite for oil so cheap and readily available is highest priority.

I'm working my way through some of the various oils to see what, if any, differences can be seen. Started with Delvac (because it was on sale) and seemed to work fine. Averaged 46.76 mpg.

I just changed the oil and filter using Supertech Universal diesel oil. Haven't had much time with it yet, but the reason for the post is to remind anyone planning on using Supertech to not just grab a gallon jug and go. Check the quart prices and compare. The gallon price was $10.16. Quart price was $2.23.
 
Valvoline Synthetic (full) 15W40 diesel. 'bout the same price as rotella, and I don't have to add as often,:confused: don't know why, can't find a leak:-s
 
i concur on the diesel oil. i only use diesel oil, period!!! 15W40 mobile 1. or rotella if i have to. diesel oil is far superior to gasoline oil due to the much higher zinc content and detergents witch keep engine much cleaner and never had an engine or clutch issue in over twenty years of using it, i got started by my dad. and as an added bonus is half the price of so called "motorcycle oil".
 
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