• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Painters advice needed

  • Thread starter Thread starter retrex
  • Start date Start date
speedy400 said:
Hi, yeah I'll second the PPG, thats what we use also along with house of colors, yes it is expencive but the finished product for most jobs is extraordinary. ps, I cant remember but I think we use low voc clear or something, I always wondered what that exactly ment, can you shead some light on the subject for me? thx-darren
Click to expand...

VOC = Volatile Organic Compounds

Basically the amount of thinner in the paint which gets released to the air during spraying and curing.

Different paints have different VOC ratings such as 2.1 or 3.5. The other day my supply of clear ran out and the local paint supply shop set me up with some low VOC 2.1 Nason clear. This stuff has a much thinner viscosity than the high-solids clear I had been using thus no additional reducer is needed to thin it out for spraying. The spray out went well and the paint set-up very fast and did not have as much of a "thinner smell" to it compared to my regular paint. I've got almost a quart of this stuff left so I guess I'm on the low VOC train now...
 
Some new not so good images

Some new not so good images

http://img50.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0066gm4.jpg

I think that the picture says it all. I dropped the tank. I was just about done with the final sanding before the clear coat and got a little careless. The bad news is I got a large ding in it. The good news is that the POR products do flex, there is no peeling or cracking. After I stop swearing I'll see if I can salvage this tank. I have one more practice tank so I am not sure how much more effort I will put into this tank. It still may turn out to be a decent rolling rebuild tank.
 
Last edited:
Nessism said:
About 99% of all paint sold is for automotive repair, not custom repaint work, thus distributers don't need fance display chips to sell paint.
Click to expand...


That makes sense for PPG, but isn't HOK almost all custom? Either way, I need some help :D
 
duaneage said:
i clear coated some engine cases with slear engine paint. It laid on smooth and gas does not seem to affect it. Duplicolor clear coat is another story, it melts under gas real easy.
Click to expand...

I would REALLY REALLY Be interested in knowing what brand of rattle-can paint you recommended that would NOT die due to a drop of gas or two...

I also appreciate you telling me to stay away from Duplicolor... I need to do something to fix my horrible paint chunk missing from my tank from a couple years back. I do'nt have the money to pay to have it professionally painted again.
 
I am currently in process of geting another CM400 tank because mine is just rusting away. In the meantime I will experiment with the clear engine paint I have and see how it goes.

I actually dipped aluminum cases painted with this stuff in gas and it still is OK.
 
retrex said:
http://img50.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0066gm4.jpg

I think that the picture says it all. I dropped the tank. I was just about done with the final sanding before the clear coat and got a little careless. The bad news is I got a large ding in it. The good news is that the POR products do flex, there is no peeling or cracking. After I stop swearing I'll see if I can salvage this tank. I have one more practice tank so I am not sure how much more effort I will put into this tank. It still may turn out to be a decent rolling rebuild tank.
Click to expand...

Major bummer. Sorry. :cry:

If you are anything like me, the second tank will go much quicker and with even better results since you are "warmed up" now!

Good luck.

Ed
 
A lot of the automotive paint supply shops have the color pallett books for most of the big brands from what I've seen.-darren
 
speedy400 said:
A lot of the automotive paint supply shops have the color pallett books for most of the big brands from what I've seen.-darren
Click to expand...

My girlfriend works at a collision shop they have the chip charts (ppg) going years back, she brings them home for me to look at, plus the materials at cost. can't beat it!
 
Thanks Darren, I found a paint supply place that carries HOK stuff; they'll probably have the books.

Bronco, sweet deal man :) See if you can track down my medium gray ;) :-\"
 
Going for the save

Going for the save

Attempting to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat.

http://img92.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0070lm9.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0071bf8.jpg

http://img92.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0072hc2.jpg

Stripes patched, black outlining pend.

http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0075ij3.jpg

The pushed out ends of the dent prevent this from being a complete save. I was able to build out the area around the the front of the tank, but the one near the stripes would have required a much larger area of the stripe to be covered with filler. Since the bulge was not that large and peaked in between the stripes I left it as is. I think I may still be able to get a decent looking tank out of the deal.
 
Last edited:
speedy400 said:
Hi, yeah I'll second the PPG, thats what we use also along with house of colors, yes it is expencive but the finished product for most jobs is extraordinary. ps, I cant remember but I think we use low voc clear or something, I always wondered what that exactly ment, can you shead some light on the subject for me? thx-darren
Click to expand...

Nessim defined VOCs correctly. Examples include turpentine, lacquer thinner, xylene, toluene, methanol, ethanol, gasoline, brake cleaner, carb cleaner and so on. "Volatile" means that it evaporates easily. The EPA has rules to try to reduce the amount of VOCs in the atmosphere because they cause health problems.

"Organic" means that it contains the chemical element carbon.

Without getting into a lot of chemistry, most coatings that survive being immersed in water are organic and organic coatings dissolve better in organic solvents. To get rid of the solvent, it must evaporate.

In the last few decades, chemists have learned a lot about reducing the VOC content of paints, using some fairly complex chemistry.
 
Oh I was just kidding man :) Thanks though.

I'm going down to a supply place as suggested to look through the paint chips. Trying to match something like this:

GT_Medium_Grey.JPG
 
Whoa! This is CREEPY!

DSCN5553.jpg


Same tank, Same dent (roughly), same time (roughly).8-[
Our bikes must be related.:)
Doh! Silly me. Of course they are.

I'm gonna try to bang mine out.
Also my tank has holes that seem to be from a previous and different petcock location. I'm not sure of the year and model of the tank but it's colors are different than the rest of the sheet metal on this 79 GS1000 so I know that it must be a replacement.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/justincaise/GS1000/DSCN5546.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/justincaise/GS1000/DSCN5548.jpg
This 2nd pict shows petcock placement for the 1000. PM me if you need measurements or anything - May be same as yours.

Thanks for the descriptive resto tutorial - It'll help.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

oldGSfan
My Norton is taking shape
5 6 7
Replies
124
Views
3K
oldGSfan
oldGSfan
jsandidge
Question for the painters
Replies
12
Views
1K
bobgroger
B
3
My 1982 Katana 1100 restoration COMPLETE!
2
Replies
31
Views
7K
Rob S.
Rob S.
V
Repainting fuel tank.. tips needed
Replies
3
Views
320
tkent02
tkent02
J
Need advice for paint and decal application
Replies
1
Views
145
spyug
S
Back
Top