Parts source for 1982 Suzuki GS650

[philosopheriam]

Does anyone know of a reputable online or brick/mortar place to buy OEM parts for a 1982 Suzuki GS650G?

I need a fuel petcock, stator cover gasket, cam cover gasket, x4 carb rebuild kits, clutch cable, and some other odds/ends.

I saw a few places online, but their prices were off the charts...

Any ideas? Thanks for the help

 

[Nessism]

Does anyone know of a reputable online or brick/mortar place to buy OEM parts for a 1982 Suzuki GS650G?

I need a fuel petcock, stator cover gasket, cam cover gasket, x4 carb rebuild kits, clutch cable, and some other odds/ends.

I saw a few places online, but their prices were off the charts...

Any ideas? Thanks for the help

Welcome to the GSR. Before you get too far down the road with your restoration you might want to learn to use the search function here. For example: "carb kits" are a waste of money. A member here sells an O-ring kit for cheap which is just about all you are likely to need, other than maybe float bowl gaskets. The archives also has endless threads discussing all the various on-line part sources. Using "Titles Only" in the Advanced Search tab will help you quickly get the answers you need.

BTW, Part Shark is the cheapest OE parts retailer I've found, and Z1 Enterprises is one the GSR member favorites.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[Adler]

In my experience, nothing beats e-bay and patience. Sooner or later what you need will show up.

 

[duaneage]

The choke cable is only 16 dollars new, and the tach drive is 11 dollars new. Check with new prices before buying 30 year old stuff. You would be surprised what is still available new and not that expensive.

I have several petcocks I can offer but a rebuild kit is around 24 dollars, not too shabby.

 

[philosopheriam]

Thanks folks!

I will typically do a search, however, things pop up on the internet every day so I figured I'd give asking a shot, just in case a new retailer popped-up overnight

As it turns out, DGY motorsports,a brick/mortar place near where I live seems to have prices cheaper than partshark, so, I'll probably go there.

I'm a mechanic and fixing-up the bike my buddy bought - a couple days ago, I went to stary the bike and the starter would engage but not turn over the engine.

Long story short, the petcock had stuck open (even in the "off" position) and te carbs overflowed and the #1 cylinder completely filled with fuel. Also, a ton of fuel had leaked down past the rings into the oil. I dumped the oil, pulled the plugs, turned the engine over, and all seems okay. However, before I dump the money into rebuilding the carbs (which don't look too bad), I want the engine to turn over and run for a bit. Anyone ever had this happen to them?

Otherwise, the bike is in good shape!

 

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. philosopherium,

Fuel in the crankcase is a common occurrence when you have a failed petcock and the float valves in the carbs (usually #2) are not able to hold back the fuel. Your "mega-welcome" might come in handy about now.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[philosopheriam]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the float valves can be accessed by removing the float bowls - these parts can be replaced without disassembling the entire carburetor.

I may just replace the float valves and bowl gaskets on all of the carbs instead of performing a full rebuild.

 

[bmac]

Restore

Restore

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the float valves can be accessed by removing the float bowls - these parts can be replaced without disassembling the entire carburetor.

I may just replace the float valves and bowl gaskets on all of the carbs instead of performing a full rebuild.

Their will be a lesson learned. You will find yourself taking those carbs off a couple of times by taking the short cut approach. If you are going to do the job right overhaul the carbs and dip them in berrymans and let them soak. You need to remove the pilot jets also to clean them. The very.......SMALL opening in the jet will most likely be clogged, resulting in hard start and erratic idle below 2000 rpm. Read the carb repair section and follow that. You will be satisfied with the right approach to have the bike at least start and idle properly. Also, you might think about looking for the valve adjustment section also. Unless the valve cover is new or you know the history of the bike, that should be done also. That is just a start for getting this to start and run properly. Yes, DGY does have good prices on some.........parts. You have to do your homework though. Check on line with other parts shops (partsshark, BB and others) on the pricing. You, won't be riding any time soon here 18 degrees here. So, take your time and do it right. Many smart people here on this site to help you with this restore. Bob

 

[Nessism]

There's a bazillon threads in the archives about people shortcutting the carb rebuild process and then having to remove the carbs over and over again until they get it right. Doing it right one time using an O-ring kit from cycleorings.com saves time. Again, you don't need "carb kits" other than O-rings. And don't forget to replace the intake boot O-rings while you are there since they are almost sure to leak unless they have been replaced before. Even if the bike started and ran with your semi-clean carbs, the O-rings would still be more than 30 years old, thus they are hard and brittle, and won't seal properly for long. I've yet to see a set of original GS carbs where the O-rings didn't break up and crumble when removing them, particularly the O-rings on the fuel transfer tubes between the various carbs. Best to bite the bullet, ungang the carbs, and get new parts in there to avoid long term frustration.

 

[SVSooke]

I will second that.My 85 GS750EF was running pretty good over the summer.Got a cycleorings set and put it in.Most of the O rings where pretty bad.Looking forward to see how it runs in the spring.

 

[philosopheriam]

Thanks for the advice on the oring kit - I'll probably go with that. However, I'll still need to purchase float bowl gaskets - I'll probably do this separately.

Do the diaphragms in these carbs usually wear out? I'm concerned about removing the top cover to find that the outer edges of the diaphragm will no longer seal when the cover is reseated.

Also, I pulled the cam cover to make sure none of the valves got ff'ed up when the engine essentially hydrolocked on gasoline. I will check the valve clearances while I am in there.

 

[bmac]

Carb cleaning

Carb cleaning

Generally no, for the diaphragms. Once you dip the carbs and clean the throats for the slides they should be able to slide freely in the bore. Bob

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the advice on the oring kit - I'll probably go with that. However, I'll still need to purchase float bowl gaskets - I'll probably do this separately.

Do the diaphragms in these carbs usually wear out? I'm concerned about removing the top cover to find that the outer edges of the diaphragm will no longer seal when the cover is reseated.

Also, I pulled the cam cover to make sure none of the valves got ff'ed up when the engine essentially hydrolocked on gasoline. I will check the valve clearances while I am in there.

Im also working on a 650. Oring kit is a must! Also intake orings. Ya might have to replace the intakes as well. That one will make ya cry at roughly 100 bux a set. I picked up the bowl gaskets on ebay for around 10 bux. I also purchased a few other gaskets I needed from the same seller to save on shipping costs. Intake allen head screws can be had from the same person ya got the orings from.

When ya remove the intakes be vary careful not to snap or round off any of the screws. You'll be haten life with this little goofup.
If ya do everything like you're supposed to "while you're there" the bike will prolly run like a top. If ya dont you'll be running in circles tryng to figure it out.

 

[Nessism]

If the carbs are dead original there will be press-in metal plugs over the pilot mixture screws that will have to be removed. Drill shallowly into the metal plugs, stick a wood screw into the plug and then lever it out. When removing the float pin you need to support the tower otherwise you can break off the tower post. I'll post a photo for you later regarding what to do.

The rubber carb spigots have a large O-ring sandwiched between the head - 38mm or something to this effect. You need to get new ones when ordering the O-ring kit from cycleorings.com. Many times the floatbowl gaskets can be saved if you are careful while removing them. Z1 Enterprises or ebay will have the gaskets is you really need them.

Regarding the valves, you will do well to check them. They adjust with shims and many people don't ever adjust them which leads to burned valves. There is a tutorial on how to adjust the valves using wire ties if you don't have the proper shim tool. Search for basscliff's web site and check out the wealth of tutorials and knowledge he has stockpiled.

good luck

 

[tom203]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the float valves can be accessed by removing the float bowls - these parts can be replaced without disassembling the entire carburetor.

I may just replace the float valves and bowl gaskets on all of the carbs instead of performing a full rebuild.

Sure, but you'll need to pull the carbs anyways to access them properly , so you might as well heed the advice of those who already been down this road and do the job right - i.e., clean the carbs thoroughly. Test out the rest of bike to ensure there's no castrophe lurking, but don't take shortcuts on the carbs.

 

[1_v8_merc]

You probably won't need to replace the Float Bowl gaskets that sandwich between the bowl edges and carbs.

You can usually keep re-using them.

Mine are dry as crap, been hit with carb cleaner 100 times, they still hold,.

I DO have a replacement set from Mikuni(expensive too)
------

I have an 82 650 as well.

You might want to order all new screws for the Carbs too!
(16 on top, and 16 on bottom.)
It's your choice if you feel the need to replace the Carb Rail screws....mine were still in good shape.

The stock ones are zinc and steel mix I believe, they tend to be VERY stubborn when taking apart the carbs.
People tend to over-tighten them, then they get covered in oil over the years, and the phillips heads strip VERY easily.
The good part about zinc is, the threads don't hurt anything, and it's easy to re-shape the heads if they get stripped.
You gotta use a ton of force, or use a Driver to get em loose.


I went to Lowes and bought all new Steel screws.
For the bottom screws I replaced them with steel Phillips, and they require a bigger screw driver to take out, so they don't strip.

For the top 16 screws, I used socket screws, all I need is a 1/4 inch socket wrench, and a 5mm or 7mm socket....can't remember, haha.

A lot of people go with Allen screws or whatever THEY tend to like.
Either way, ANYTHING is better than the factory ones!

Also, IMPORTANT!!!!

When you tighten new steel screws down, tighten them until they are Snug, they just maybe a 1/4 more turn or so.
They don't need be super tight, just snug 'em and a little more, that's it.
Trust me, they won't leak, lol.
The threads on these carbs are sort of delicate, so ya gotta be a little careful with steel screws.

 

[philosopheriam]

Yes - i need to replace the screws, as I had to use a driver to remove some of them. What a PITA....

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Check this out...

Valve Adjustments (8 Valve)

CV carb rebuild series

Air Intake Repair

Carb Notes:
Synchronizing/Troubleshooting/Theory

Carb Specs:
Float Height/Jetting/Tuning

All from your "mega-welcome" and stored on my little website. These should give you and idea of the procedures involved.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
​

 

[Guest]

Yes - i need to replace the screws, as I had to use a driver to remove some of them. What a PITA....

Ya have to use an driver to remove ALL the intake screws.
Might have to use an extention on the driver.
And you are correct PITA!

 

[philosopheriam]

Well, after checking prices, DGY turned out to have the best deal on most of the stuff I needed.

I also ordered from cycleorings.com for the carb orings, intake orings, intake screws, and float bowl drain orings.

Let the project begin! I will go to fastenal or the hardware store to pick up screws for the carb tops/bottoms.

Thanks for all the help, gents!